WME

I remember seeing in an owners manual that one should replace the outer wheel bearings and inspect the axle every 30,000 mi. So if my rememberer is any good, the mfgs new that there was a design problem with the fake duallys and used this statment as CYA.

Most important question!!! The roof is built as unit and basically just rests on the walls.

I think you need legal help. An overpass that low should have been marked.

Any solar hot water panel will take roof space that could be used for solar panels. A circulating water pump will need power. Whats more important power or hot water?

Check the bushings in the rear springs. There 3 sets in each spring front, upper shackle and lower shackle

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Water-Pump-Leisure-Components-131-5-2-Way-Low-Boy-Hand-Water-Pump-/250911805020?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6b824e5c&vxp=mtr Keep you from wasting water and having to run another 12dc feed to another pump

House water is for washing things and people. I use bottled water to cook with and drink.. Your drinking water tank idea sounds good, just make sure you can do an easy fill from 1 gallon water jugs

WB ismeasured from the center of one axle to the center of the other.

Suggest 4 fuses of correct size. 1 furnace 2 two lights 3. two lights 4 Water pump

Just to complicate things I'll throw out "Well Nut". A couple of fender washers and a well nut do wonders attaching things to fiberglass.

Back when you were discussing wire size "J" listed appropriate wire and fuse sizes. Please remember that a fuse is to protect the appliance from itself as well as to protect the wiring. Just because you are using 10 gauge wire somewhere doesn't mean you need to use a 30 amp fuse. A 5 amp fuse may be more appropriate for your load. Under fusing a large wire is safe, over fusing a small wire is NOT safe.

Sounds like a rats nest. Assume starts with , assuming things around electricty makes for sparks and some times flames Follow the wires with your eyeball. Clean grounds are not nice to have, they are required. Does your rig have a fuse block? Some rigs have more than 1 block. Most fuse blocks have a common + input to all the fuses and then indivdual + lines out to each load. Parallel means that the + of the converter is connected to the + of the battery and the - to -. The heater needs some eyeball work to see where the second + goes. good luck and go slow WME

The trim is not the seal it just holds the window in place. There is a sealing compound between the window and the frame. So old trim is OK

Warning "Cheap Carlie" move to follow. Remove one of the smaller window trims. Push the rest of the window trims back into place this will leave a gap in the trim, so cut the old trim to fit the gap. Buy new trim for one window instead of all the windows. The advantage to this is that the old trim is preshrunk and will not pull away again.

On my 86 Toy M/H, when I changed to a 3 row the only problem I ran across was the tin under plate would not fit. No problems driving that way. No ideas of PN though (6 years ago)

Are you using a Toyota factory thermostat?? There have been many reports of problems with non factory stats in the V-6 and some on the 4 banger

The UV oil additive works great and Black lights aren't that had to find. Also if you have an oil burner the UV trace will eventual show up in the tailpipe.

Yea, about 20" of L shaped steel plate and a longer rear drive shaft. It looks like mine started as a 137" WB. If you look at my avatar you can see how little rear overhang there is compared to a Winnie 21ft. The way it looks is the frame was cut and jigged out to 147" then the plates were welded on. One top and side, the other bottom and side. That way the frame is fully boxed at the joint.

Between the axles, thus the 147" WB

Another vote for cast iron. Yea it would be heavier if you brought a whole set, but a fry pan with a lid can do double duty as a mini ditch oven outside over a campfire. IMHO Non stick doesn't really like fires

If your parking in one place for awhile. Make over sized windows shades and attach them OUTSIDE the windows. Velcro or magnets work. Using the shades insides, the heat is traped between the foil and the window and the will leak inside. With the covers outside the windows are in the shade. Foil on the inside works great in the winter mode.

The reflectiveness is close to the same. Go to the MFG web site and dig around to find the actual R value. Check the $ per sq ft for both the foam and bubble foil. 2 layers of cheap foam and the cheap Enerflex may be your bang to the buck solution.

My 86 Escaper had an extended frame. 147"WB. EZ Ryders have an even longer extended frame (151"??). They are 23ft long

Here ya go, one hole, rubber gasket.http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/marker-clearance/rmpc-series-led-mini-round-marker-lamp-rmpc-x/829/#images

The only time someone would know that a clearance light is broken or missing is at night. So get some of the reflective tape and cut it light size and install it in the proper place. That way when some passes you at night they would see "working" clearance lights