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Everything posted by WME
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One of my personal rules is any new RV (to me) the first overnighter is at Wal-Mart. That way you can get the fix-it stuff right now, instead of forgetting and it bitting you in the behind on the next trip. WME
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Wow a whole $65. A few years ago I was asked to drive a family over the mountain passes so they could watch grandson play BB Their coach was a 36 ft Blue Bird. Try buying 125 gal of $4.50 a gallon diesel. Try pumping that amount through a standard fuel nozzle when its 10 degrees. There are people here who have bought a Toyota MH for less than that fillup, and it wasnt even empty. It was nice to see how the other side of the world lives.
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Sunrader cabover front window leak...or not
WME replied to snail powered's topic in General Discussion
Sounds like they sweep up the screws that fell on the floor each day and didn't bother sorting them out for the next day. There reports of Radiers having having long screws through the 110v AC wiring -
A V-6 with a 5 speed is the rarest of the rare. Folks have looked for years before settling on a V-6 automatic. Good luck maybe you will stumble across one in the next town.
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When your home, crawl under you rig and check the vent line. Over time they develop a bit of a sag. When this happens and you top off the tank fuel gets in the vent line and stays there. If you route the vent line so that it is uphill all the way with no low spots it will self drain and stay open for fill ups.
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The laser just shows where its measuring. The IR tool measures in a cone, so the futher away your the wider the spot. So close is better. Your temps look good, the two stage theromostat is Toyota's answer to what your seeing on the temp gauge. The big techie name is temp overshoot. Think of something like mechanical hysteris in the thermostat Looking in the top of the radiator when its warming up is a good way to see the flow from the water pump,
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This is the Caddy of the cooling fans...http://www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com/ My refer showed a big decrease in temp.
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Looks like that's that. However before they remove the head have them check the valve clearances on #6, like just in case you know. Also do BOTH heads. Getting to the heads involves a lot of labor first, so don't be penny wise dollar foolish. Also also belts and a water pump are a really good idea at this time.
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What happens a lot is the vent line will develop a sag. If it does the low spot fills with gas and won't let the tank vent. Check you vent line and make sure it runs up hill all the way to the filler.
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Powell Wy has the same thing. A lot of the smaller towns here have a city park where you can overnight for free. P.S. Most towns in WY are "smaller"
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8 ply is an obsolete term. But a lot of people still use it. Load range D or C tires will be what you need. That term is also obsolete too The current load rating that you need are 97 (C rating, 6 ply) 1600lb @ 50 psi or 102 (D rating, 8 ply) 1860lb @ 65 psi. SO.... 8 ply, D range and 102 load rating all mean the same thing. Some Toys came with C range tires from the factory. To use them you need to weigh your Toy and do some math and see if it would be safe. I always figure on 3 rear tires in the rear just in case you need to drive a bit with a flat. You ain't going any where with a flat front so it doesn't matter. One more thing you may see a 102 (d range) tire marked something like LT185-14C. Don't worry the C is the European/Asia marking for Commercial, they use it instead of LT (light truck)
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And the problems were?????? Inquiring minds want to know.