WME
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Posts posted by WME
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Remove old caulking and reseal with Dicor Lap Sealant
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The ceiling is paper glued to luan plywood. Resulting panel was glued-screwed to the rafters. Choices jack up the roof and use a 2x2 floor to ceiling to support it. OR just shave the door
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Why bother with a screwdriver, get the real deal...https://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html
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5 hours ago, RaderNed said:
That's an interesting possibility as I didn't do that when I filled and started the system last time. Do I need to drain the heater tank to do that now? Or the whole system?
Shut off the pump and open the drain valve and let out a few cups of water. Close the drain valve and let the pump refill the tank and your golden.
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I don't want anyone to misunderstand, I didn't scream up the mountain passes at 4000 rpm all the time. The passes go up hill for a LONG way, but the grade is changing constantly, at times I'm WOT in 2nd gear at 3300 rpm and other times I'm at 1/2 throttle at 4000 rpm. The idea is to lock the transmission in 2nd to stop upshifting and downshifting as you climb. Vary the throttle instead and cruise up the hill.
2800 rpm at WOT is a lot more stressful on an engine than 3800 at half throttle. If you're in 3rd at 2800 going uphill, you ain't climbing😜
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A weird low probability thing is a waterlogged heater. When you summerize your MH you should trap an air bubble in the water heater. Close the drain valve and the pressure release valve at the same time. The pump will fill the heater and there will be the bubble at the top. This lets water expand when it gets hot and helps regulate stable pressure.
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Again FWIW, I live in the Rockies every way out of town, except 1, involve an 8,000 to 11,000 ft pass. I drove a 22re, auto and pulled a 5x8ft enclosed trailer for business.
My climbing rpm was 4000 rpm with short bursts of 4500 rpm if needed. As an oldskool gearhead, I've followed the 80% rule for sustained rpm. The redline on a 22RE is 5750 rpm so my internal limit was 4600 rpm. The 22re is an oversquare engine, the real limit is the cam and airflow with the stock head.
You need to think of CA freeways, Toyota sold a jillion 4sp Pickups and they spent their lives flogging down the road at 70 mph. Thats the combo that built Toyotas reputation as a builder of bulletproof engines.
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There is a oneway check valve in the pump it might take a few "blasts" to get it to seat, an old pressure switch. An old pump. Or its normal, stop worrying. A leak usually shows up as the pump cycling through the night
This is an accumulator tank for the water system, the built-in air pocket. https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-pumps-water-filters-fixtures/water-pump/water-pump-tank_86-8139
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The fact that you didn't have any work done makes, an over the net diagnosis hard. Guesses are, in no particular order. exhaust pipe rattle..broken hanger. Loose torque converter/flex plate.
Exhaust shield on the engine is loose. Worn A/C compressor. Loose pullies on the front of the engine. Worn timing chain.. usually shows up when starting the engine.
With the engine OFF and COLD lay down and grab the exhaust pipe near the driver's door and shake it.
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IMHO 😀 I believe, with a 4cy,l that the 4:88 is correct for the automatic. Using the O/D results in a reduced RPM over just using 3rd. That means you have a usable 4speed. If you have one of the rare 5 speeds then the 4:56 is the right deal. This is because of the difference in the O/D ratios. If you have a 4 speed leave the rear end ratio alone.
With the V-6 the 4:56 seem about right for auto or 5 spd
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You aren't twisting it fast enough. Late model 22RE max torque is 140 lbs @3600RPM
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Lift up the range top, most of the time there will be some screws.
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Have you had any work done on the engine/transmission recently??
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You need "ABODY" to help you.
Try it with you behind the steering wheel see if the parking brake will hold with the transmission in gear. If it will hold get some scrap 2x4 to chock the wheels and open the hood and listen. If the parking brake does not hold fergetaboutit. Find a body
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To coat it, you have to get up on the roof. So get a ladder and see what your roof is.
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I can't tell what the roof is made of. Bare aluminum or is it a rubber roof (EPDM).
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😜OMG I didn't need to see that.
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Shock is 14" compressed, so at 19" eye to eye, you have over 5" of compression travel before the shock "bottoms" out, that equals a really big bump. It will "top" out (rebound) in 3" but that would take a spectacular pothole to achieve that sort of sudden drop. You should be creeping along if the road has bumps and potholes that big.
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Truck stops, farm coops, land fills, sometimes closed state hwy weight stations leave the scales on. You just drive up and get out and look through the window.
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My bad I thought you wrote 12,000 lbs overweight guess I need new glasses or maybe a new brain.
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36 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Short length does not always mean light weight! This one is ~1200lb over GVWR.
1Uh that scale is reading lbs, not kg. You can see lbs on the display
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Yes on the ball joint shim. In reading your post I thought you were thinking that shimming the balljoint would raise the front end. If the bump stop is stock you shouldn't need to shim as the wheel travel is normal.
On the early Falcon/Mustangs when we do the "Shelby Mod" on the front suspension we use a tapered shim to prevent the upper balljoint from binding at full compression.
Removing a leaf in the back and adding PSI to airbags shouldn't make the ride harsher. It takes a certain amount of spring force to achieve the desired ride height. All your doing is moving some that force from the spring pack and moving it to the airbag. The overall force is the same. If you want to get super techie the ride will be a tiny bit softer as the leaf spring pack has more internal friction than the airbag does.
1981 Toyota Dolphin Leaf Springs
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
Reading material...http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11256-are-my-leaf-springs-blown/