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Posts posted by WME
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Balsa Core screw failure and anti crush. Drill a 5/8 hole and epoxy in a proper length 5/8 hardwood dowel.
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Fiberglass resin + foam= bad. Epoxy resin + foam=good
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This is one of those Motor Homes. From awesome to somthn else.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-great-dale-house-car-1965-dodge-coronet/
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Somewhere in the forum there is a floor repair post. Glued the new plywood down and then drilled 3/8 holes through the new wood and 2/3 of the way through the old floor, made the holes in a grid. Jack the old floor level then coat 3/8 dowels with epoxy and drove them into the holes. Let everything set up, flush cut the dowels and then sanded the floor.
Very rigid
Idea is new screws will pull out of the old floor, hammering the epoxy coated dowels in forces the epoxy everywhere into cavities in the old floor, much stronger.
EDIT found it...https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10066-87-sunrader-floor-project/#comment-93485
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IMHO , 10/40, 20-50 dino oil. Toyota never made a motor home, their recommendations are for a "heavily" loaded pickup with 250 lbs in the back. They have no idea about the loads involved dragging a house around at 60 mph in 100 degree temps.
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You guys are working too hard...work smarter...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HovJTohrOrg
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https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-ford-f-250/
Just the "right size"
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Man your going to itch for a week, just less with a hazmat suit
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Spectra TO7D 1990 Toyota V-6, 19 gal.
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Don't need no stikin socket🤡
Pure shade tree, 2 short bolts in the lock ring and a prybar
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If you haven't seen this, there may be some ideas to be found...https://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/category/Sunrader+Build
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These are some VERY general thoughts on the "Sunrader sag". The design of the floor is OK, but the frame support design is the weak point. The failure mode is there is minimal support from the chassis to the edge of the shell. Over time the foam in the floor fails and the weight of the shell causes the edge of the floor to sag.
To prevent the sag from coming back you need to add support from chassis to the edge of shell.
Here is ONE answer...https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11856-sunrader-floor-repair-gut-and-rebuild/
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The chain tensioner is a diy doable thing, but it is a major job. Find the noise, don't just throw $$ at it. Removing the fan belts is easy and the engine will be OK for a minute or so
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Remove all the fan belts, start the engine. This will tell you if the noise is in the engine or in the stuff bolted on.
The #1 noise from the front of the engine is a timing chain tensioner failure. The cam cover needs to come off to check things out. A faliure will result in the timing carving a hole in the front cover, which has coolant in it. Keep engine running to a minimum until you find the noise.
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Some of the late models came with C range tires.
Will you have a spare rear tire? If no rear spare then you have to figure one tire carrying the load on one side as you limp to the next tire store.
P.S. I gone over 100 miles on 3 legs.
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Problem is 1983 truck, most fitment charts start at 1984
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KYB KG 4611A ????
check the lower bolt pattern to compare to the OEM shock
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Don't think sexy, think light. Nida-core, Fiberglass/foam panels, if you use wood panels, router out the backs.
Reads. Bob the builder...
Sunrader slide in camper...https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/sunrader-70873.html
Lite cabinets... Poster bables a bit, but solid info.,,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5h8FdX0l6x8
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8 hours ago, Toycollector47 said:
Surprisingly I think I understand what you’re saying there! 👍Did you find a link for the sleeves?
I really didn't look for availability, just that they were in the catalog.
Outer 99-138
Inner 99-243
I THINK that's the right ones
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Well if it works, great, if not you can return to the stone age,, a couple wraps of wetndry, a couple turns of a leather boot lace and a stick to make a bow. Pretend like you're trying to start a fire.🤪
Learned this at a machine shop in the back country jungles in the Philippines
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A quick glance at the Speedi Sleve book shows they have sleves for inner and outer seals, bad news is they are $40-60 ea
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There is a very long post about the brake bias valve.
Basic thing is because its supposed to be a pickup truck and its now sitting level, so the bias valve thinks that the pickup is empty and sends most of the breaking force to the front brakes.
The higher the arm is the more brake is shifted to the rear. A lot of people just unbolt it from the bracket on the axle and bolt/bailing wire the arm to the house floor.
Stranger in a Strange Land
in General Discussion
Posted
Well this is different, its defiantly a mix-up.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1995-chevrolet-astro-2/