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Posts posted by WME

  1. I would guss its aboit 1" on each side. If you have gutted yours, take a measurement at the rear of the shell. That's the strongest part, about a foot from the rear, would let you know how wide the shell is. Then move that measurement to the middle and you should get an idea of what the walls should looks. You could also use a plumb bob taped to the parting line and see what the measurement is at the bottom of the shell. Do it in the middle and see how far things have to move to make it right.

    To do things right you need a center line on the floor too.

  2. The technical term is "drift angle". If the sides of a mould are straight it is very hard to remove the part. By making the open end of the mould wider by a small amount removal becomes much easier. The part will pop out. With a 2 piece shell top and bottom you get a wedge shaped side.

    DO NOT try to make straight sides

  3. Multiple choices depend on your craftiness and wallet thickness 🤪

    1. Wrecking yard get everything from a 22r truck... gearbox, pump, hoses and brackets $$

    2. Wrecking yard get gearbox from a 22r truck... get aftermarket electric power steering pump.$$$...https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2013-VOLVO-S40-C30-C70-V50-ELECTRIC-POWER-STEERING-PUMP-OEM/254430204321?fits=Make%3AVolvo&hash=item3b3d38d1a1:g:9TMAAOSw50Vd1~zB

    3. After market electric shaft conversion. $$$$...https://epasperformance.com/products/custom-power-steering-kit


  4. 4 hours ago, Odyssey 4x4 said:

    I saw that one too, not sure I'd want to trust it! 

    Maybe so, but I posted it so that the OP can see what he has. There are remans available on EBAY, the $$ are from 250 -500. The quality may be as varied as the prices.

    You need to see a photo of exactly what you are buying, that model number has at least 2 different hose/charging ports setups. The OP photos show that his has been converted to R134 with an aftermarket kit. You have to wonder if that conversion was plug n play or was done properly.

  5. Its one of those kinda sorta things. It depends on what the RV mfg started with.

    The standard pre 87 pickup used a 9.75 x .83" thick vented rotor with a 2" caliper piston.  The pre 87 HD (not 1 ton) chassis used a 10.1" x .945" thick with a 2" piston.

    The later 1 ton used the big rotor with a 3" caliper piston.

    They all used a 5 bolt rotor with a FACTORY 5/6 adapter. The factory adapter is iron and AFAIK the aftermarket adapters are aluminum



  6. Most of us have replaced the thrashed OEM shocks, With KYB and Bilstein being the top choices.

    Shock ware house has a set of 4 shocks...good... Monroes $142, better... KYBs $145 and best  Bilsteins for $320.

    $240 labor yikes, do you have ANY wrench skills??? Tools??? Safety stands???

    Shock replacement is a long way from Rocket Science.

    I'm guessing Pep Boys is selling Monroes which is not such a good deal. IF they are selling Bilsteins then the package isn't to bad of a deal.

  7. Your dealing with 2 seals and a trim piece.

    The frame is sealed to the house with the butyl tape . The window is sealed to the frame with a small bead of urethane auto glass sealer.

    What most people think is the seal is actually just a trim to hold the glass in place while the urethane sets and to make things pretty.

    Make sure the frame weep holes are not plugged.

  8. Just looking at them are they all about the same size?? Take a metric one to your local NAPA store and see what they have. The problem going to be the holes that had SAE bolts in them, is there enough thread left to go back to metric bolts.

    Worst case you may end up using an SAE tap and making all the bolts holes SAE. These are just simple bolts you don't need grade 8.

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