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Posts posted by WME

  1. Wrong tires, wrong gear😝

    185/60/14 tire.. capacity 1047 lbs (82) revs per mile 916. Most of these Toys weigh 4000lbs in the rear. With these tires you have 0 excess carry capacity in the event of a flat, what is your spare tire situation?

    LT185/14/c...capacity 1850 lbs (102) revs per mile 809 this the correct tire

     IMHO  Because of the difference in automatic O/D ratios vs 5th gear of the manual transmission. The best choices are 4.88 for the auto and 4.56 for the 5 sp manual.

    The 4 speed manual is best just left alone.

    You have less than 100hp all the gears in the world aren't going to overcome that. What your trying to do is run down the road with the engine turning between the torque peak, 2800 rpm and the HP peak, 4800 rpm. Like around 3800 rpm.

    There gear calculators on line that will let you try things

  2. The normal system function is when the engine is running the alternator charges the truck battery and through the isolator it charges the house battery. With the engine off the isolator is disconnected The converter and solar panels just charge the house battery.

    There smart isolators that will let the alternator charge the house battery AND let the converter/solar charge the truck battery.


  3. I was cheap and lazy. I routed the both airlines to the driver side rear wheels. That way I could fill/release air with out having to go on a walkabout to get both valves.

    A bulls eye bubble level on the rear bumper worked to level front to back and side to side.



  4. Start here...http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11900-89-saggy-rear-suspension-and-steering-pop-advice/


    Air bags are probably the best as they are adjustable. With a small 12v tire air compressor you can use them to help level the rv when camping. Best shocks are Bilstein, 2nd choice would be KYB. Monroes are MEH

    The banging is most likely totally worn out leaf spring bushings. Each spring has 3 sets of bushings. Normal auto stores can get OEM rubber bushings. The  better bushing is a poly bushing from an hot-rod/off road shop


    P.S. Big $$$ solution is new bushings, springs and airbags. Make it like new Airbags and bushings are the minimum

    P.P.S Read up on adjusting the rear basis brake valve. With your rear suspension fixed you brakes will act strange until you adjust the basis controller.



  5. If you have functioning air bags just go with KYB or Bilstein.

    Coilovers add stress to the lower shock mounts. For the same amount of "lift" airbags will ride smoother.

    If you just have to be different google "Toyota Pickup ZUK mod"

  6. 1. Derek is right somebody broke an ear off the compressor.

    2. Your missing this...https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Conditioner-EC-0008C-Eccentric/dp/B003R3ZG0G/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ec0008c+idler+pulley&m=A13BLDU2WSRY6U&qid=1582780117&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1

    Also the pulley and bolt. The bracket comes in different heights to provide proper belt alignment. Your system looks like it is using a standard cogged v-belt, check the number on it.

    3. Here is a very poor picture of how things go. Maybe Derek can dig up a better one....https://autoacsolutions.com/products/ac-kits/1984-1985-1986-1987-1988-1989-1990-1991-1992-1993-1994-1995-toyota-pickup-and-4-runner-air-conditioning-add-on-kit/

  7. Changing drive shaft length is old school stuff. For Toys the front shaft is stock from the transmission to the center bearing. The mfg stretched the rear shaft the same as the frame stretch. Just cut the shaft at the u joint flanges. Place them in a jig and weld in a new longer tube. Afterwards you have to re-balance the drive shaft

    If your company made enough MHs then you would just order finished shafts from a job shop

  8. On 2/20/2020 at 9:26 AM, JaySam said:

    WME: Are you thinking something like herculiner ? Or do you have a suggestion for a product?

    Yes, Rustoleum has a bed liner kit you can get at Walmart. Its barely OK for a pickup bed. BUT you are going to use it in a protected area. You just want the sound reduction and weather sealing.

    For use in the cab check out Dyna Mat and its clones. Low budget plan B is this stuff...https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/decking-deck-products/deck-flashing-supports/12-x-25-deck-flashing-tape/dfb1225/p-1462879491609-c-5728.htm 

    If $$ is a problem then a can of flex seal just for the wheel wells

  9. Both my brother and myself have the 3500w Predator for house backup power. He is in Santa Cruz and has about 30 hr on his after one season of PG&E safety blackouts. I have about 1.5 hr on mine, winter storm related.  HF fails to mention that its is battery electric start which is nice

    You would have to reinforce the frame and bumper to safely carry that much weight.

    Money is a big deal these days, but you might think about a smaller A/C that will run off a 2300/2400 inverter generator. OR a pair of the Ryobi sized units in parallel and use your 13.5k unit. You can turn a knob and seal the fuel tank then run the carb dry and have no smell. Then store them in your shower for transportation. Just chain them to your bumper when they are outside.

  10. I had a 13.5kbtu A/C and an onan 2800 microlite gen-set. Above 90 degrees it would NOT RELIABLY restart the A/C without tripping the generator. I added a hot start cap and it solved the problem.

    Even with a hot start cap I don't think a Ryobi 2300 has enough power to restart your A/C

    Experimenting cost $$, so here are 2 choices

    https://rv-ac.com/Easy-RV-AC-Starter.html        this is a timer setup. It starts the compressor first, then starts the fan. So your not getting hit with 2 different surges at the same time.



    This cost the most, but is very smart. It steps up the voltage to the A/C in steps and greatly reduces the surge by spreading it out over time.

    P.S. Harbor Freight has a very nice 3000w inverter generator

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