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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by WME


  1. The local cheap gas station is about 4 blocks from my house, so thats what I use. About 2x a year the car gets a bottle of Techron. At the beginning of the RV season the MH gets 2x bottles, big fuel tank.

    After many years still good.


  2. OK here is a new idea.

    ATS  $60

    Easy Start $300...https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw5rA1eDL5AIVAR-tBh348QENEAQYASABEgJqFfD_BwE&variant=30176048267

    The outboard ATS will take the power from your exhisting inverter and direct it to the 115v ac house power panel.

    The easy start will reduce the start up surge from your Roof AC from 42 amps to something around 16 amps. Your 2000w inverter should be able to handle that. I don't know how happy the AC will be running on a modified sine wave.

    Ya pays ur money, an makes ur choices.


  3. Good news, bad news. You can do it, but your are going to spend $$ to do it.

    Assumptions you have 4 t-105 or GC-2 batteries. Thats 450AH. Safety discharge means 225AH of usable power so your house mechanic is consertive on his time numbers.

    You have a typical 13.5k BTU roof AC. SO your looking at 1400w running and 5000w to start. So you going to need a bigger inverter. Also some serious battery cables. Your start up current will be drawing 450 amps from the batteries

    Stuff you need

    A 30 amp ATS will run $60.

    Plan B something like a Xantrex Freedom X-3000 inverter. It is a pure sine and can deliver 6000w for 2 sec, it also has a built in transfer switch. $850.00

    Options

    A new generation smaller AC will draw less power and increase run time and reduce start up power needs. But thats even more $$. Like 1100w running  $600

    UBI the 11K Colman will run off a Honda 2200w generator. $1000.00, but then you have power when you need. Like a microwave.

     

     


  4. Those windows appear to be Hehr. There 2 seals on those window. The brown rubber thing is NOT a seal. The window is sealed to the frame with a automotive urethane adhesive. The frame is sealed to the RV using butyl tape.

    So the drill is to remove the brown rubber strip, AKA glass glazing bead. You need 2 people or lots of  duct tape for the next move. Using a razor blade or fillet knife, from the inside cut between the window and frame. Carefully start in a corner and push the window glass out of the frame. Then use a screw driver to remove the screws from the inside of the frame and separate the two parts. The outer frame is stuck on with butyl tape. Remove everything and clean things up. Mark the inner and outer frams so they will go back in correctly and the screws holes line up.

    Install new butyl tape on the frame and install the outer half. Screw the inner to the outer. Let the tape warm up and tighten the screws. If the tape oozes out just trim it  to the frame.  Make a bead of the urethane around the inner lip of the frame and set the window in it. Use some tape to keep it from shifting. Now install the glazing bead and cut it to length,

    Glazing bead match your profile...https://www.pellandent.com/RV-Window-Seal

    Window urethane...https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK

    Butyl tape, look around it comes in 3 colors...https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS

    Optional, this will keep the putty tape from accumulating guk, a small bead around the edge. NOTE this not self leveling lap sealant...https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-551LSW1-White-Non-Sag-Sealant/dp/B003YJLIW8/ref=pd_cp_263_3?pd_rd_w=mX8dV&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=ETXT565S1WDVFWZSD34E&pd_rd_r=27d7fe2b-f8e4-4f84-8ec3-ce5be6c82132&pd_rd_wg=lOwge&pd_rd_i=B003YJLIW8&psc=1&refRID=ETXT565S1WDVFWZSD34E


  5. In the photos your roof is black. If it is black then it has been coated with something NOT designed for RV use and you can see cracks in the covering. Those are leaks waiting to happen.

    Probably something like this stuff...https://www.lowes.com/pd/BLACK-JACK-4-75-Gallon-Fibered-Waterproofer-Roof-Sealant/3009900

    To to make your roof right you can look forward to hand scraping the entire roof down to the metal, can you say days of scraping. 😫 Some auto cleaner chemicals may help, Like WalMart carb cleaner. If you use chemical help make SURE you outside, well vented and away from flames.

    When you get it cleaned off use lap sealant on all the roof seams, then use something like this on the roof...https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/roof-coating/sealbest-duck-coat-white-thermoplastic-roof-coating-9-gal/1531835/p-1444444997118-c-5822.htm?tid=-4411091524350413458&ipos=14

    It will stretch and not crack. It will also be a lot cooler and a bit quieter.

    Good luck


  6. Scraper, putty knife, wire brush, razor blades..what ever works be careful with sharp things

    butyl tape...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/tape/butyl/butyle-tape_38-1467

    Self leveling sealant, this will flow out and level itself, for roof tops...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/sealants-and-caulks/rubber2-lap-sealant-white-103oz-tube_38-8896

    NON self leveling, this is for vertical use it wont flow or sag while drying...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/sealants-and-caulks/lap-sealantuse-388896_38-9018

    Front window is a total different animal. Use the motor home search engine

     


  7. Roof vent.. Have you thought about a Fantastic Fan or something similar?? A lot time at night they will do as much for you as a roof ac.

    How to... Remove old vent, CLEAN CLEAN off the old stuff on the roof. Use  butyl tape to seal the vent to the roof. After the tape warms up tighten the screws, scrap off any of the tape that oozes out. Then use a lap, self leveling, sealant to seal around the edge and a dollop on each screw.


  8. A flat plate cooler is more $$ but it is more efficient than a tube and fin cooler. Both of these coolers are 18,000lb units. You can see the size difference and cost. Your choice
    This is a flat plate cooler...https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60380/10002/-1

    This is a tube and fin cooler...https://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/820500/10002/-1

     

     

     

     


  9. 1 hour ago, greg Linder said:

    Hi - I have a 1985 Sunrader which has 47 k on it (recently bought). Has auto trans. with od. I plan to put a transmission cooler on it and drain/refill it with Dexron 111. I assume it has Dexron 11 now. It works perfectly now but will be taken on a trip over the Cascades and Rockies soon and we want to be sure it runs cool enough (hardly ever use the od).  Any thoughts appreciated.

     

    Yes on cooler, put it in series with the radiator cooler. Aftermarket first then radiator. This will help take some of the heat out of the radiator when your making a long up hill climb.

    Yes on Dex 3. Draining the pan will only remove 2-3 qts. But that much fresh fluid will be a big help. The transmission filter is just a big piece screen not worth changing unless its torn.

    Yes on hardly use O/D To be totally sure of things add a trannie temp gauge


  10. Reality check, Unicorns like  Deluxe hotel rooms , they don't do camping in a 30 year old RV's. 

    Some basic power truths. Do you know that a tank of propane has an energy density way more than a battery. A 60 lb flooded cell battery (regular deep cycle battery) weighing 60lb has about 1.5Kwh of power. A gallon of propane has 26.8 Kwh of power.  Propane weighs 4.2 pounds per gallon. So a gallon of propane has the power of 1000lb of batteries.

    Li-ion batteries will have 2x the energy per lb, at 7 times the $$

    To run the tankless heater you listed for 30 min a day of TOTAL use, would require 200lbs of batteries and 8 hours of sun shine with a 150 watt panel. It will draw 140+ amps from your house batteries during use. So your looking at finger sized battery cables.

    You also asked about running a dorm refer from batteries. To do both you will need over 300lbs of batteries and 400 watts of solar, you will also need a 3000w inverter. Running a TV or lap, lights and the water pump will add to the size of your system. How about cooking and a heater for cool nights??

    Almost anything is possible with enough $$$, but is it practical?? There is a reason RVs have propane.

    All the above means zip IF you WILL ALWAYS be staying in a commercial camp ground with at least a 30 amp plug in


  11. The parts are available, most of us have functioning A/C. It could just need a recharge, EBay has NOS R-12 cans. If your system was really abused then the cost can get high. You need to decide if its worth it.

    A proper diagnostic is needed.  


  12. Used Toyota ad language and translation.

    I don't know if "it" works I never use it..."Its" broken.

    Good tread on tires, expressed without a tire MFG date...old dangerous tires. A 10 year old tire needs replacing regardless of tread depth.

    Gets 20 mpg...ya right

    Old leak repaired...just wait for the first rain.

    You don't have to worry about the previous owner, but the 6 previous P/Os. Each of them has changed something to make the MH "better"

    The learning curve on your first used MH is pretty steep. The first one I bought was a money pit. Now if I spend less than a $500 on making a used RV right, I think it was a good buy

     

     

     

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