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About WME

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1986 Escape, rear bed, side bath, A/C, 2.8 Onan 22re, auto.
    Current rig 2003 30ft Winnebago Brave Class A
    Workhouse chassis, slide
  • Location
    Riverton WY

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  1. The sensor is reliable, but ask how much to do it now vs if it dies in a year. E-bay has the sensor from $25-$200 so that is important too.
  2. Mountain passes; SLC to Houston, TX.

    I 70 has 3 or 4 7000ft passes. AND the longest no gas stop section of the entire US Interstate system Salina Ut to Green River Ut. So gas up Co has a 10,000 ft and an 11,000ft pass on I 70 The interstates will have better snow control than the blue line roads. Just drive at a safe speed P.S. You should have left 4 days ago
  3. Its all about your camping style. Are you in a tiny home or are you in a water proof tent... What good is a refer that will work at 15 deg off level, you can't sleep that far off level for any length of time. The new refers will work at 3 deg off level. That's about it for sleep anyway. Maineah has the whole picture, its all about energy density. Yes you can run an compressor refer in an RV, but Toys all ready have a weight problem. Adding a couple or three more batteries and enough solar to run a compress indefinitely and what happens to your carry capacity?
  4. If you use the sealed LED also use dielectric grease in each base. Fergetabout unsealed LEDs
  5. Driver cab heating

    I had an 86 Toyota and the heater worked well down to -20. The first thing to do is look at the cables from the control panel to all the various flaps and such, make sure each one does what its supposed to do and hasn't slipped of the lever. Next is remove the heater blower motor and make sure its running at full speed. While its out check the heater core for blockages. In 30 years you never what rat built a nest in the heater box or a pile of leaves has filtered down through the cowl vent. There photos on this site of the junk found in the heater box. You would believe some of them
  6. For the table...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/search?categoryId=&query=table+legs For the chairs...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Marine-Seat-Pedestal-Base-Post-Mount-Swivel-Chair-Fishing-BassFREE-SHIPPING/202113239317?hash=item2f0ee34915:g:tOEAAOSwSutaCqFI&vxp=mtr
  7. Mountain passes; SLC to Houston, TX.

    All three passes are in Utah. If you go south to Provo on I15 you can avoid the one at Vernal. The next 10,000 is Price and the 7,000 is Monticello. Monticello is where you pick up 491. The devil part of 491 runs across the Navajo reservation from 4 corners to Gallup. If you take it all the way to Gallup you can pick up I40 to Albq. I drove a lot of both roads this summer, the roads are OK to good as far as roads go. But you are going through a whole lot of empty, so keep track of gas stations
  8. Mountain passes; SLC to Houston, TX.

    Hwy 191 has 2 10,000 ft passes and Hwy 491 has a 7,000 pass. They both pass through a whole lot of nuthing. Keep an eye on the Utah travel maps A full propane tank, good house battery and keep the fuel tank way more than 1/4 full P.S. Hwy 491 was renamed in 2003. It used to be Hwy 666, the Devils Hwy Maybe I15 to Vegas, I40 to Flagstaff and to Albuquerque then I25 to I10 straight to Houston
  9. Newbies Afraid of Freezing Lines

    Experience from the winter school of hard knocks.....WINTERIZE and don't use it on the road. Have the PO show you how and do it before you leave. If that seems a bit much then scroll up to the forum appliance section and look for the post about "air purged water lines". With a $5 blow out plug adapter you can do a quick purge and just pour some antifreeze in the sink traps. Drink bottled water, mix RV antifreeze and water 25/75 (75 is water) and flush the toilet with that. While you SHOULD be safe from freezing on the southern route, they did just have a monster storm go through. So this is more of penny wise,,pound foolish type advice While most of the lines are inside and with open cabinet doors the heater will keep things from freezing, all it takes is a heater failure and you in a warm hotel room for the night to cause problems. The gray and black tanks are exposed to outside temps and nothing is more fun than trying to dump a frozen poop tank. If the tank was full when it froze then you stuck using gas stations until things warm up. So the gray tank gets some antifreeze too so that the valve is protected. Have fun with your new toy. Remember the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask.
  10. Winterize kits Part A...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/rv-water-heaters/water-heater-repair-parts/pump-converter-kit-lead-free_88-8843 Part B..https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/rv-water-heaters/water-heater-repair-parts/rv-water-heater-bypass_88-8824 Of the 4 RVs I've owned only 1 came with a complete factory winterize kit installed
  11. What does it look like from the underside? Is there some frame that the wood step fits on. If there is just cut a new step, fiberglass it to make it water proof and install it. The original lasted 30+ years so its not something you will ever need to redo if you water proof it
  12. Yea bolting is a PIA, but if you mess one up unbolting the old one is easier than grinding off a couple of welds. Using a good 20v cordless drill with a 18" extension makes it a snap to level.
  13. I installed a water heater bypass and a pump converter. I winterize with less than 1.5 gallons. The extra .5 gallon goes into the holding tanks to protect the waste drain valves. No problems so far on 3 different rigs at -30.
  14. My current rig and its predecessors had/have black iron gas pipe from the propane tank to each appliance then a flair to MIP half union with a 3 ft or so of copper to unit. The copper has enough flex so that you can pull the appliance out and then unhook the copper line. The flex piping you see on a lot of home water heaters is NOT recommended for RV use