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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by WME


  1. That's a good deal, also its an AGM battery and has different charging/maintenance requirements than a typical flooded cell. Check your converter settings to make sure you can keep the battery happy


  2. It is a good price if its really what you say it is. Old Sunraders may not fall apart and leak everywhere, but they will develop leaks at any opening cut into the shell. Vents, windows and doors. They also have a terrible floor design.

    If you have SKILLS then the problems can be overcome, if your skilless then its $$$$ to repair things. The major appliances are the refer and water heater, they are $$$$ the other things are just $.  

    The truck is just a basic truck and John Muir's "How to keep your Toyota PU alive" will get you through whatever needs doing.


  3. What model is your onboard converter/charger?

    The 200w solar is a good deal, BUT how big is your battery?? Do you know AH or group size??

    The refer Dometic 2401 has a simple controller (you) The controls should be on the bottom of the refer. Right to left  Big knob A source switch GAS OFF ELECTRIC,  next big knob B is the thermostat gas or electric, then a small push button the piezo sparker, last is a window to see the flame. If the refer has been changed out over the years all bets are off.

     


  4. Charger, maintenance, how far it was discharged are all part of the battery lifespan. A lot of folks do well with WalMart batteries. The fact that they are everywhere is nice when you are on the road a lot and you have a warranty claim.

    A "best" battery will be over $200. Lifeline, Trojan, Deka are highly rated. You also have to decide flooded cell or AGM. If you need the very best a LiP04 (lithium) run around $750+


  5. Possibility... a dying fan motor. Its stiff and doesn't blow enough air to trip the safety fan sail switch. When you start the truck the motor gets extra voltage, like 12 vs 13.5 , after the heater starts you probably stop the truck. Then the voltage drops back to12 and the fan slows down and eventually the sail switch trips and the fire stops. OR the fan slows and the air flow is reduced and the heat chamber overheats and the safety temp sensor trips.

    The fix is a new motor, maybe a clean and lube the motor and sail switch will get things going. But your motor is 35 years old and just may be worn out.

     


  6. If the simple inside post thing won't work then could you do a combo of post and cross beams inside? They may not end up at 90 deg angles to the inside but from where ever the post could be "hidden". The other choices require a double cross beam setup.

    A full width 1.5"-2" angle iron beam (u channel or sq tube will work too). Lay it down and drill through the roof, use a 2" piece of  1/8" strap iron on the inside to spread the load. Bolts every 8" or so. One crafty member did some beautiful steam bent laminated wood inside cross beams. Another cut the inside beam from solid wood with a curve in it.

    The outside beam needs to be blocked up at each end about 1/2". As you tighten the through bolts you can adjust the amount of torque on the bolts and give the roof a very slight positive curve to prevent water pooling on a flat roof.

    Do this in front and back of the AC.

    I use the term angle iron as a generic term steel or aluminum will work, but aluminum is a bit bendier. Of course,  the bare metal must be painted.

    As always all this depends on your skills or pocketbook. A 1.5" sag is a lot and it's only going to get worse over time and cause increasing roof damage.


  7. Sounds like you have done this sort of thing before but for a newbie contemplating something like this remember this. Running a single tire on a full floater The rim offset must be correct for the load to be centered between the bearings on each side. The same thing for the front wheels, center the load. The fronts may require an adapter for a single spare to fit everywhere.

    The Toyota factory 1 ton setup was dually on the rear axle to center the load and an adapter about 5" wide to center the load with a dually rim, on the front end, in a single rim function.

    The GM rear axle sounds good, can you run 8 bolt rims in the back with a 6 to 8 bolt adapter in the front?? Using stock parts is way cheaper than custom stuff. Disc brakes are way over rated for low-speed use on the rear axle

     

     


  8. Removing carpet tools... dyke wire cutter, plain pliers, straight slot screwdriver. Be advised that rv carpets are held in place by about a zillion staples. Most removed carpet gets replaced by vinyl flooring, easy to keep clean.

    Raising the roof is harder. The basic plan is jack up the roof to original height and let things dry out. Use a space heater or dehumidifier. Look at your countertops and see if there is one you can put a bannister post from the countertop to the roof as a support.

    Some folks have made bent laminated bows and through bolted them to the roof while it was jacked up.

    I'm sure others will have ideas


  9. $12K this time of the year is a good budget for a 2wd. 4wd will be 2x that amount.

    OK everything from here comes as an OPINION

    Unless you are a devout minimalist get a 21ft unit. These have a separate toilet, bath. The 18ft typically have wet bath, after a few months it might be a bit much.

    The rear bath also gives you 3 zones, rear bathroom, middle kitchen/living room, front bedroom, again a weekend is way different than 6 months.

    Are you in a perpetual hurry? My 4 cylinder has been over the Passes in Estes Park and through the Eisenhower tunnel.

    Again you driving a Toyota pickup and there were a zillion built so parts are easy.

    Big deal rule, There are no bad Motorhomes, only bad previous owners. Figure $1500 for stuff needing to be fixed. 

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