WME

Something I saw on the solar forum, it may work as a lower power (5amps) AC unit for a smaller Toyhouse. The install looks to be simple. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWFQNPJS/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Current price $12500, 1.5 HR left on auction

Not good with pics. Google "Mobile Traveler 5th wheel" and "Scamp 5th wheel"

This thread is 6 years old. If you start a new thread the answers won't get lost in the clutter. Anyway a new roof runs $100+ a foot. So your looking at $2100 vs $125. 20:1 odds is a pretty good bet. So CLEAN, CLEAN, then clean some more. Lay down Eternabond tape on the edges of the Max Air vent. then seal over it with a Snowcoat. Eternabond for things with flanges, Dicor to seal other things on the roof. Snowcoat over everything. Aluminum roofs will develop pinholes due to tree sap and bird poop, that's why you need to seal the entire roof with the snow coat stuff. P.S. Welcome to the world of Toyhouses

Install one of these...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-pumps-water-filters-fixtures/water-fills-hatches/recess-wtr-inlet-white-bu_10.0733. Water pressure will flow up hill. One problem is refilling on the road vs a gravity fill. Add some reinforcing on the floor from the outside, that maybe enough to lower the tank so stock fillings will work.

Painting fiberglass correctly is a PIA. Google how to paint a Corvette.

Someone was asking recently. This is going to be $$$ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1984-toyota-4x4-pickup-19/

Well this would keep you busy this summer. https://bid.goodingco.com/lots/view/1-75OH6P/1934-ford-model-bb-house-car

Not needed now, but somebody is always asking. No idea it it fits. https://www.rvlock.com/products/rvlock-atlas-keyless-handle-for-class-a-c-motorhomes

Maybe a small piece of foam stick on weather strip at each corner of the flap, if you can get to it.

Yes flexible panels overheat when flush mounted. Even if they have an air gap the covering clear material fades from UV. Seem kinda dumb for a solar panel to have UV problems. I tried some typical flex panels 3 years ago and they lasted 1.5 years before they failed. There is a very good type of flexible panels, they are called CIGS panels, the gotcha is size and $$$, a 200w CIGS panel is $600.00 vs $170 for a rigid panel. They are less effective, so they are larger for the same output. A CIGS panel would be 86x26" and a rigid panel is 65x26"

Basic isolator stuff. Think of the isolator as a one way switch. You posted in the beginning that you had depleted your house battery a few times. With out an isolator you would also deplete your truck battery. Then how you gonna get home? So the isolator "isolates" the truck battery from the house battery load and you can start the truck when it's time to go home. There is a similar function used with factory installed generators. The generator fuel line only goes 3/4 of the way into the fuel tank. That way when the generator runs out of fuel you can still start and drive the MH. On home installed units you have to be careful about the install. Other wise you may find yourself pushing your Toyhouse to the gas station after boondocking . The DC to DC charger acts as an isolator so you can remove your old one. Your converter still won't charge the truck battery, BUT if you add a solar panel to the DC to DC charger it will charge both batteries. At this point in time a 100w solar panel can be had for the princely sum of $70 and a 200w for $170. Easier to install 1 panel. P.S. Friends don't let friends buy flexible solar panels.

I don't know how much aggravation you will put up with to fix your problem, but this vent cover has 2 locking arms that will flip down and lock the cover when traveling. https://www.amazon.com/RVGUARD-Exhaust-Motorhome-Trailer-Include/dp/B083HYG743/ref=sr_1_3?crid=25LYFY7EHYWGM&keywords=rv+stove+vent+cover+replacement&qid=1680631703&sprefix=rv+stove%2Caps%2C227&sr=8-3 Cabinet door catch...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/search?pageSize=24&startIndex=24&query=cabinet+door+catch

WOW It seems there 2 converter/battery threads going at the same time, I went to the other one🙄. So were you able to check the polarity of things?? Also as we dig deeper can you post photos?

OK lots of scary pictures. If you had someone who spoke "Electron" this would be a 30 min diagnosis. Over the net this is going to be an "how do you eat an elephant" project. 1 start here. You have a picture of just the battery. Does it have 12v? If it has 12v then don't hook anything to it. If not do you have/can borrow a 12v car battery charger and try to charge. Old batteries can develop a surface charge and show voltage, but have no power. 2. The picture of the fuse panel. There is a large red wire and a bunch of white wires. The red wire should be the power wire FROM the converter. Can you follow it and see where it goes. IF it is the converter wire a voltage check is in order. Looks like your rig is wired as red+ and white - IMPORATANT protect/tape all the ends of the loose wires. SPARKS NOT ALLOWED. Disconnect and remove the inverter. Silver thingie next to the battery Plug in the converter to shore power, find the circuit breaker that feed the converter and turn it on. Measure DC voltage between the fuse panel red wire and all the white wires, AND from the Blue wire to the white wires.. Red and Blue should be 12v + and the SAME. Should be 12-14v DC Not sure! ask questions first. Post result It looks like we won't be able to check the alternator

You need a voltmeter. https://www.bestconverter.com/ is a source for information and converters. Well you may be right about having a bad converter, it's is odd that some of the 12v in your RV is working. The converter only has 1 output, that wire goes to the fuse panel where it branches out to the fuses to power the 12v stuff. It is possible that the converter is working OK and the water pump is bad.

1st use for the voltmeter😁, check the wiring on the house battery. Previous owners (PO) have been known to "miswire" things. Your lights are DC and will run with either polarity. If something is wired wrong the alternator could be fighting the house battery. Some time universal RV wiring color code🤪 Black is + and white is - (ground) The shore power plug is just that a shore power or generator plug. If your boondocking push it back into its storage space and leave it there.

Actually the Caddie looks good.

FWIW, IF you want remove the transmission from the bottom, jack the truck as high as possible. There are 2 bolts on the top of the transmission that are a major MPIA. You may need a couple of extensions and a couple of u-joints.

If your going to remove the transmission already. Then remove and inspect everything you can just unbolt and clean them. Pump, oil pan, OD solenoid and such like. Any crud you clean out can only extend its life. The Toyota transmission filter looks like it's made from a screen door A rebuild pump is $75-$100.

Do you have a volt meter?? A conversation with out you having one is a waste of bandwidth. Please make a new post in the electrical section. This one is 2 years old and is full of the original posters junk

Fuel filler hose is $$$ as others have said. Like $1.00+ an INCH. A hack that will help SOMETIMES is to use 2" exhaust tubing to make curves. The tubing comes in 30, 45, 60 and 90 degree prebent and of course straight . Just use a hose clamp at each joint.

Try a search for "door skins". Maybe a product like OOP'S will soak through the wood and lose the glue.

FWIW the plywood is most likely Luan plywood 3mm or 1/8" also available in 6mm. Most big box home supply stores have it

Unless you have a smart isolator, your converter 12v output should go direct to the house battery and not to the isolator. Factory set up doesn't charge the truck battery. The isolator is used to charge the truck battery and the house battery only when the alternator is running. A normal deep cycle LifePo4 battery makes a poor starter battery due to the BMS discharge limits. LifePo4 automotive starter are just becoming available and are priced accordingly. Standard LifePo4 12v 100ah battery is in the $300 range and a starter battery is $450+ AND then a LifePo4 rated alternator😁😁😁. Also due to the charging cycle of Lifepo4 BMS they can be very hard on stock alternators due to being able to take a 100 amp charge. and a Toy alter is only 60 amps so you would be running it full tilt and it will quickly overheat. Also the battery can go from full tilt to 0 in the blink of an eye. Alternators don't like this. The DC to DC charger will prevent all this and acts as an isolator. All things considered K.I.S.S