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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by WME

  1. Dry oilite bearings on the blower/fan motor. Crafty person answer, remove the motor, drill a tiny hole in each bearing bulge. Use a hypo to inject some 10 weight synthetic oil. Do this for several days. Simi crafty buy a new motor and install it. None of the above go to your local RV repair shop for new fan motor/new heater.
  2. Decisions, decisions... fish or paint the truck. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
  3. I live in the mountains in WY, if you don't go in the winter you don't do much for 5 months a year. With decent all season tires they do pretty good in snow. Rear weight basis ya know. I have driven over South Pass several times in the winter with my Toy, even pulling a trailer. The magic is a SMART CAREFUL DRIVER going slowly. Unless you're going off the road, over a cliff or into a 4ft high snowdrift, don't ever stop, even if the rears are spinning. Chains are a last resort. If its really that bad stay home Also on my toy the brake basis was set FULL to the rear Now on real ice fergetaboutit. Also, a limited slip on ice is bad juju, with both tires spinning and a little road camber the rear will slide off to the low side. With an open differential you may not be able to go, but on an iced up off-camber road the tire that isn't spinning will give you some side bite and that maybe thats enough to keep you on the road. On dry pavement and an overabundance of HP a limited slip is a true wonder.
  4. With a sharp point electrode, it takes 20,000v to fire a 1/8" gap. Electricity is very lazy if it can make a complete circuit somewhere other than the gap it will. That includes YOU. While 20KV normally won't kill you, your reflex jerk can cause you a lot of harm. Be CAREFUL around live HV circuits
  5. Yep, 3 bushing sets per spring. New springs will settle some in the first 200 miles or so. The whole bushing thing is that badly worn bushings (25-year-old OEM rubber) will let the spring move at the mounting points. Hit a bump and the spring will move up and down a 1/2" and then clangs to a stop when the mounting bolt hits the frame/shackle resulting in a noisy and harsh ride. With good bushings, the spring just flexes and the suspension works as designed. The off-road suspension folks have Poly bushing sets. They are a little firmer and last longer. KYB are very good shocks, Bilsteins are very very good shocks
  6. FWIW, this was my thing.. I messed with the springs, shackles and bushings until the empty Toy sat level. After loading every everything I adjusted the air pressure in the bags until the rear was about 1/2" high.
  7. A Bilstein shock has a preload of 30-40lbs, so yes a Bilstein will lift a Toy with bad springs...BUT not much. You need good springs to do the lifting. A real old school method of finding correct tire pressure. Get some school kit sidewalk chalk. Find a long empty parking lot, make a wide line across the tires. Drive in a straight line. Then look at the chalk line and see where it's worn. Rubbed off on the edges+low pressure, rubbed off in the middle= high pressure. If you have to do this on a road, be careful and avoid turns. This will work with radial tires but it's not as sensitive so you may need to drive longer
  8. K.I.S.S Fergetaboutalota of sexy modifications, use it basically as it is for 6 months or so. Then you should have a good idea about needs vs wants and act accordingly. When using a fantastic fan just open windows on the shady side. Make sure they have screens. If you're not going with a generator or solar, then go through your "house" and replace all the 12v light bulbs with LED bulbs Measure your battery box and see if there is possibly room for the next size larger battery. The isolator you have consumes .7v. If your cables/connector are off a bit then your battery is undercharged. On a static battery, .7v is the difference between 100% and 50% charged. Your charging system should deliver 13.5v + to the house battery or your up the creek.
  9. What is your isolator?? A 3x5 aluminum block with fins or the 35mm film can size one??
  10. I THINK that the drive shaft is OK, BUT that the bolt flange on the new axle may have to be changed. Any case take everything you have including the driveshaft. As they better to have and not need than the other way.
  11. As a new owner, this will become your new BFF...https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=voltmeter Get one and learn to use. You need to check the truck battery voltage, the isolator v in&out, house battery v. All with the truck engine off and running. You will also have to check the v at your fuse panel. Your Toy is 34+ years old, you have no idea what has problems from old age and what is bad from poor decisions by a previous owner (PO)
  12. More light please, take the picture from behind a rear wheel shooting toward the other wheel.
  13. Got a smartphone?? bubble level app.https://downloads.tomsguide.com/Bubble-level,0301-41172.html..
  14. Additional thought, practice changing a flat tire at home on a solid surface. Learning how to do it on the side of the road in the rain is bad juju. This way you will know if you have all the tools too.
  15. Welcome to the tribe! You need to understand one major thing, your Toy is over 30 years old. You can carefully inspect everything and suffer a problem 100mi down the road, you can inspect nothing beyond what you have done and run for years with no problems. The answer " Just do it". Travel at the speed of smell, enjoy the trip and life. Official old fart expression is to travel the blue line roads. Allow time for "stuff" to happen. You're going to be fueling every 150-200 miles so that will be the rest time for your truck. Add tire checks to your daily fluid checks. Harbor Freight has a cheap IR temperature checker. While your fueling just walk around and check tire temps. A tire with low pressure will be hotter. After a few checks you will know what normal. The checker is also handy for cooking. 55-60mph is a happy speed for your rig, it will run faster but the mpg will suffer greatly at 70 mph. O/D only with a good tailwind. Going down the East coast you will have hills to deal with, learn to be proactive with the transmission lever. Going west you will have mountains to deal with, proactive shifting is a must as is proactive braking. The best driving computer in the world is between your ears, THINK ahead about what the road is doing. If the weather gets bad, just go home, its only 5 ft away. Park safely of course. Useful information... Where to dump your holding tanks (free)...https://www.rvdumps.com/ Cheapest gas...https://www.gasbuddy.com/GasPriceMap?z=4 Flattest route...https://rvmiles.com/flattest-route-finder/ Feel free to ask more questions.
  16. Wheel travel is measured from full drop to full compression. The shock for your truck has 4.6" of travel, when you figure out the ratio of the A arm from the pivot to the shock to tire. You should have 6"+ of travel
  17. A bad Carb can cause many failures, but EVAP is not normally one of them. Normally the engine is not even running
  18. To level a parked make a stack of 2x6 into a ramp or fancy commercial levelers to do the same thing...https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-leveling-blocks-reviewed/
  19. Other than the handling problem, how did your other improvements function? Any suggested design changes on the power/water systems? Did your suspension have anti-sway bars front and rear?
  20. Here is a forum for Scamp type fiberglass trailers, maybe some ideas for Sunrader owners. http://www.fiberglassrv.com//mods...
  21. Most evap tests are not sniffer tests. They are a simple pressure test. ie your fuel system must hold a certain pressure for so long of a time period. A bad gas cap, a cracked hose, the canister cracked are the usual suspects.
  22. He's talking about your gas cap, go to your local auto parts and buy a new one.
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