WME

Will the U bolt flange from the old axle fit the new axle. I'm not sure but I think I remember somebody just redrilling one of the flanges.

I spent 20 years in the USAF chasing electrons, when I got myToy it took me 2 weeks of steady work to fix the wiring mess from the PO. Get a volt meter and follow every wire belonging to the isolator. house battery and the 12v dc power panel and fuses. When its all set up correctly the house battery will be charged by the truck alternator when your driving. If you're into long boondock times and short drives. Look into a solar panel kit a 100w system will result in almost perpetual motion. Get a 200w system and 2 house batteries if you're a heavy power user. Another thing reducing power usage (led lights) is the same as adding a bigger battery.

Just for grins. find a really dark place some night and open the hood with the engine running and look for sparky things happening where they shouldn't be.

When were the valves last adjusted? Maybe the TPS needs cleaning

Use a carpet knife and cut around all the fixtures and rip the carpet out...Ya right you will find that the carpet is attached with a zillion staples. Needle nose pliers, a slotted screwdriver and a great deal of patience. Clean up the floor AND install sheet vinyl. Use 1/4 round to trim the edges. Then lay throw rugs to keep your feet warm. Carpet is almost impossible to keep with someone going in and out in the dirt.

WAG one of your batteries is hooked up with the polarity reversed. Most RVs black is + not ground

Here is a chart for the efficiency of a swamp cooler https://www.google.com/search?q=arizona+almanac+swamp+coolers&client=firefox-b-1-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=_6W4BmYhrFOM0M%3A%2CBI8YyZgk_9F6sM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTJG6XEjD896ToTN8WDMP7vcTsKbg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiC7Z2N16PhAhUCjVQKHQaKCI0Q9QEwE3oECAoQBg#imgrc=_6W4BmYhrFOM0M: One thing you have to understand with a swamp cooler you MUST have constant fresh air into the cooler, you CANNOT recurclate air inside the RV like a standard AC can

2x what he said.

This is what you need. Hopefully, someone hasn't cut off the mounting plate. You may need to make the crossbar longer to match the 6 bolt rims. https://www.ebay.com/itm/89-95-Toyota-Hilux-Pickup-2WD-Spare-Tire-Winch-Carrier-Holder-w-Bolts-4-Hole/323582949472?hash=item4b570bf860:g:WyAAAOSwSVNcBu9O

You are correct a 185 tire takes a 5-6" wide rim, the 245 takes a 7-8.5" rim SOOOoo go to an auto wrecking yard and get stock Toyota rims, they should be in the $25-35 ea range

Your tire 245x60x14, load capacity 1675 lbs, 813 revs per mile Preferred Toyota MH tire LT185rx14C, load capacity 1850 lbs, 809 revs per mile. Don't let the tire monkey tell you that you need a middle number on the tire size (aspect ratio). That number is for a P-metric tire. You want a Light Truck tire. If you having to deal with an especially stupid monkey, just go here. http://www.busdepot.com/RA18/

Make sure the monitor comes with sensors. The cheaper units use bolts that require a hole in the tank. https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-2-Water-Tank-Monitor-Panel-12-Volt-On-Off-Toggle-Switch-Camper-w-8-Probes/254132457145?hash=item3b2b798eb9:g:UbAAAOSwo4VcmF7a The smarter ones use foil sensors on the outside of the tank. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Garnet-Technologies-SeeLevel-II-7091003-Tank-Monitor-System-Sea-Level-RV-Monitor/132972174238?hash=item1ef5c25b9e:g:0iUAAOSwuJlcecH-

Cheaper to use what you have, just don't push the black button 😁 But if you're really jonesing to spend $$ here are some choices. https://www.ebay.com/itm/JRV-AX310RBL-HOLDING-TANK-FRESH-WATER-MONITOR/302685631892?hash=item4679783594:g:4NsAAOSw629auyql https://www.ebay.com/itm/JRV-2-Water-Tank-Battery-Level-Indicator-Caravan-Gauge-w-Volt-Tank-Probes-12V/362076777945?hash=item544d752dd9:g:zTIAAOSwn6JcGJr4

Forget the trailer, how about a variation of this idea. https://vertiyak.com/products/vertiyak I made something like this for my Kayak, cost about $75 for the metal and an offset hitch. With that boat weight, you would need to do a little beefing on the rear bumper.

There 2 things going on here. The truck is just a regular Toyota pickup, well it does have dual rear wheels, the engine, transmission stuff is normal Toyota pick up. The major difference is the brakes on the rear axle and the shocks. Then there is the house, while it was built by many different companies, they use "standard" RV parts. Water heaters, stove/ovens, water pumps, refers, lights are all most universal. In fact, most of the RV stuff is also Marine stuff too.

An old wise man once said. "You will have to kiss a lot of toads before you find your Prince/Princess". Press on a little wiser and look closer to home.

What you need to do is find a good guy mechanic. Do a full tuneup,,, spark plug, plug wires, dist cap, and rotor. Adjust the valves. Change coolant replace ALL the hoses and fan belts. Change oil and use a good filter. Check brake pads, shocks, and the rear leaf spring bushings. Tires need to be less than 10 years old (7 is better). Figure $600 to $2000 depending on what checks good. Like a set of tires is $600+

How many miles on the old engine?? What's "wrong" with it?

Show us a picture of the 4x4 axle...They are not full floater axles.

Rock Auto has a reman Denso for $76 + $34 core charge...they have new ones (not Denso) from $84 with no core charge.

Foolie = FAKE dually. The foolie has 2 bearings in each side of the rear axle. The axle housing and the wheel are designed to carry the load centered on the outboard bearing. The axle shaft has to carry the load and transmit the power to the wheels. When the extra foolie rim is added outboard of the factory wheel the load is not centered on the bearing. The new load center is about 4" from the bearing, this causes the axle to flex while it turns. After awhile metal fatigue sets in and the axle breaks and the wheel and brake drum comes off. Now your driving on 3 wheels with only 1/2 your brakes. This is not good. The real dually (1 ton) has 3 bearings on each side. The axle housing and hub are designed to carry the load centered between the 2 outboard bearings. The wheels have centers that are radically offset. When they are bolted face to face the load is centered between the 2 rims and the hub twin bearings. The hub and axle housing carry the load. The axle shaft ONLY transmits the power. In the rare event, the axle shaft breaks the wheels stay attached. So you didn't get "foolied"

Pick yur poison, ratios can be had from 3.21 to 5.38

Take a read here...

Wow talk about rare. About the best bet for the window is a boat shop that can deal with curved Lexan/plexiglass. You can dye plex in a large tub using hot water and several boxes of rit dye Some were from a dark demented mind I seem to remember that they built a few they called a limousine version, lots of seating, no popup, and not much camping stuff