WME

I used a hard start cap with very good results. BUT I had an Onan 2800 and a 13.5 kbtu ac. My problem was hot 100 degree days at over 7000ft. The Onan was derated enough by the altitude that it need the cap to kick off the ac all the time. For RV ac and a 2000-2500w inverter generator the good, better, best seems to be Hard start cap, RV AC start $100 unit, and the Micro air being the best

Congratulations you have a perfectly operating solar charging setup. AKA "Don't Worry Be Happy". Lest you doubt the vastness of my RV battery system knowledge 🤡 here is a voltage vs charge % chart. https://www.energymatters.com.au/components/battery-voltage-discharge/

Here is their older web site, the new one is "under construction". Several useful items for campers ...https://rv-ac.com/Four-must-have-extras-for-RV-Lovers.html I've used the fridge fan and the hotshot start cap successfully.

Sorry, you are out of luck. The recall was against the RV Mfg NOT against Toyota. The last known RV Mfg that had some axles was National. They recently had a garage sale and got rid of the remaining ones. You need to start the wrecking yard craw. UHaul had some Toyota box trucks so look for them too.

Maybe here?https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Replacement-Coleman-AC-Shroud-p/77-4350.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgsGRlpiC4gIVjf5kCh3VnQMuEAQYAiABEgLvMPD_BwE&gdffi=d722fab84a06472899ce2a16e4d2ed3f&gdfms=598C1CDDF2034E3FBA4C1A2804A72E65

Your MPG and speed numbers are spot on.

You're headed up the river WHY? An 86 should have a 5 bolt front wheel, you will need a 5 bolt to 6 bolt adapter. Yes C&C makes an adapter but its $$ for a set. Will they fit with the new brake rotor? ICE notes that the rotors mount differently than the stock ones. A 15" rim-tire combo will effectively give you a higher gear ratio. In reality, your over geared with 14", so to go with your 15" rims you should plan on a rear axle ratio change, even more, $$. Bottom line is you can do what you want but you're looking at $2500. Tires, rims, brake kit, adapters, and gear change. Maybe you would be better off adjusting the rear basis valve and driving at the proper Toyota MH "speed of smell". Good luck on your plans whatever you chose.

That isn't going to get you what you want. It's a 14x6" rim, the 6x7 1/4 is the bolt pattern. You're going to need something from the custom side of things.

Check your bumper welds daily. I had a bumper tube peal off from the frame. The welds held, but the metal actually tore. I only had 75 lbs of tongue weight on the hitch

On my Escaper I had the same thing happen. I used exterior grade poly glue. Took a couple of cargo straps around the RV and a 2x4. Strapped it flat and let it set up for 2 days then did the other side.

Even a mid 90"s model is 25 years old. So what is more important than the MFG is how the P/O's have maintained it. Each brand has inherent pluses and minuses. The wood framed ones are subject to major rot is the leaks weren't constantly chased down and fixed. The metal framed ones are more rot resistant, but leaks can damage the underlayment paneling on the outside and the inside paneling too. The Sunrader fiberglass ones won't rot but they will leak damaging the interior also the floor design on a Sunrader is a poor idea and causes its own problems. Check everything and buy the best you can afford, or you can end up with a perpetual DIY project. Just an opinion don't get over your head there are way too many gutted worthless projects for sale out there. The new owner was going to do a big redo on then ran out of time, talent and $$.

😀Victory....at long last.

Go here, read all... I think the link is bad, but you can google things to get to the right place

OK I'll try simple. 2 batteries in parallel the voltage stays the same and the capacity doubles. So 2 12v 100AH batteries electrically become a 12v 200AH battery. Parallel is + to + and - to -. 2 batteries in series the voltage doubles and the AH stays the same. So 2 6v 200AH batteries electrically become a 12v 200AH battery. Series is + to - and the load is connected to the - of one battery and to the + of the other. The standard 6v battery is a CG-2 or a T-105 they a 200AH capacity. There is no standard 12v battery, depending on the RV you may have a GP 22=55AH, a GP 24=80AH, a GP 27=90AH, a GP30=110AH or a GP 31=125AH. It all depends on space and the P/O's budget. A 200w solar panel setup will support 2 batteries You would not normally use 2 12v batteries in series. That would be a 24v system. Next problem. 200w of solar is a goodly amount for an RV, so if they do work you're golden. Most solar controllers have a 10 or 15 amp load limit through the controller. IF your total 12v load is below this limit then you can make use of the LVCO. If your total load is more than this you have to connect the load to the battery and just leave the load terminals on the controller empty. If you have an original 1980 converter they are a very poor design. It may say 35 amp converter but that's the 12v load power. The battery charger is usually only 1-2 amps. A modern 35 amp controller can charge the battery at a full 35 amps. If your running 12v power (lights, TV, fan) then the battery charge rate is 35 amps - the load. So a 10 amp load means that you have 25 amps to the battery. A battery will only take the charge level it needs. So if it almost charged and even if you have it hooked up to a modern 35 amp converter the battery may only take 2-4 amps. The same thing applies to your shore power system. If you have a 15 amp plug and use an adapter to plug into a 30 receptacle its not going to force 30amps into your RV.

What is your general location? There a bunch of web watchers here that are always looking for Toy MH's that need a new home. In the search for Toys, a 200mi+ drive is not unusual.

Well for starters it's an inline 6. There are some conversions using the MBZ 5 cylinder. But a 6 may be just too long. Of course with a sawzall and enough time and money, anything is possible.🤪

The 5 bolt spare tire chain holder needs to be modified for the 6 bolt rims. Make sure yours is correct.

Well the good news is that someone has upgraded the rear axle to a true 1 ton. The bad news is your shocks need to be replaced. You have mismatched shocks. The problem I see is I don't know is if you need 1982 shock set or a set of front 1982 shocks and 1988 set for the rear. You need to remove the shocks and measure the collapsed and extended length. Check the mounts also. This a place to start looking, they have all the measurements... https://www.shockwarehouse.com Air shocks are not a good idea, because all stress is placed on the shock mounts. Airbags are much better because they place the stress on the leaf springs and the frame rails. Good... Monroe Better... KYB Best Bilstein. Priced in the same order

Just CALL the folks selling the spring paks and ask about 75-83. Save a bunch of bandwidth.

You have to inspect in person. Make sure everything works. Have them plug the RV into 115v ( household current) and start the refer. Check the water pump and lights plugged in AND unplugged. Don't forget the previous moisture checks too. In order of replacement $$$ Refer $800, water heater $500, Power Converter $175, water pump $80. Then there are tires, brakes, shocks, airbags, rear springs. If you don't have skills most RV shops charge $60-100 an HOUR. So buy the best one you can afford, its cheaper in the long run. If you don't trust yourself to evaluate one then look in Craigs List for a mobile RV mechanic. While they seem cute they are still a fully functional RV with all the stuff as a 40 ft one.

Random thoughts The Dolphin is bigger inside. The Dolphin has a reputation of poor quality build, a tendency to leak and have rotten wood. Being parked outside make this more probable. This really depends on the maintenance of the P/Os. The Escaper should have an aluminum frame, while it may leak it won't rot. Make sure about the 1-ton rear axle. Post pictures of the rear wheels and we will let you know what is what.

Lots of elbow grease. When you're done check out Zep wax ...http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=96462.0

If you want rubber, just go to your local NAPA store. They have rubber and poly bushings. Around $3 ea if you buy a set (6 per spring)

If you're going to be using a temp sensor controlled fan for your trannie cooler, you can mount it horizontally.

Your sway bar mounts are some of the worst I've seen. Here are what you need for a simple mount setup, its flexible enough to mount the bar on top the axle, behind the axle or under the axle. Important measurements are axle tube dia. and the sway bar dia and the width of the u-bolt. You need 2 muffler clamps for your axle dia....https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4630-1/overview/ You need a set of these (2ea)...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-928-545/overview/ You may have enough stuff with your old brackets to just need the muffler clamp saddle.