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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by WME

  1. Desperate move... OEM tank from a pull a part yard. Look for a truck with current plates
  2. The 2 upper bell housing bolts will test your vocabulary. The preferred method is to remove transmission cross member and lower the rear of the transmission. I think its a 17 mm bolt. a LONG 1/2" extension and a breaker bar. Installing an allen hex or a torx will make the next change easier (in 20 years😁)
  3. Its one of those package deal things. If you have to change the throw out bearing, you need to change the clutch disc and pressure plate. If you have to change the clutch disc and pressure plate, you need to change the throw out bearing. To much labor to do it twice A HD stage 2 clutch package runs $110 or so a stock one is in the $70 range. You don't need a stage 3 or 4 kit. You also might think about changing the slave cylinder and maybe the master cylinder too.
  4. The Toys have a split brake system. It's a safety thing that dates to the late '60s. The MC is split so that if there is a broken brake line at least 1/2 the brakes work. In the old days, there was a single line to all the brakes and if a line failed ALL the brakes quit. The Toy PUs had to have enough brakes to stop a loaded PU, but most of the PU spent their life with an empty bed. So in the pre-ABS days, the answer was a mechanical system to keep from locking the rear wheels when empty. We are never "empty". We have 4000 lbs on the rear axle and we have dual rear tires for even more traction. We obsess over the RV being level and that confuses the LSPV... the answer is to remove the bugger and run full pressure to the rear brakes. In all the posts about adjusting/defeating/removing the LSPV, I remember only 1 person who had to add a manual proportioning valve. I went the defeat route because my LSPV still worked. My Toy had worn out 2 sets of front brake pads in 50,000 mi and my rear shoes looked almost new so I knew something was off. After defeating the LSPV I was MUCH happier with the braking action and never looked back.
  5. OK we will do a KISS system. The electronics in a microwave runs hotter with a Mod Sine inverter. It also has less energy to cook with. So it runs longer, builds more heat. 30% increase in failure rate. You will have around a 15- 20 min battery life with 1 battery. Mount the 2nd battery where you can, use a big cable to connect both batteries. What kind of converter charger do you have? 110v ac will "travel" easier than 12v dc, so mount the inverter as close as possible to the batteries and make the 110v ac line whatever length you need. The inverter will need cooling air so plan for air flow. Can you easily get to the microwave power cord? A 30amp ATS run around $60 if you want a little automation.
  6. When I got my Toy, the first summer project was brakes. I was fortunate in that some in the RV's life the front brakes had been redone. The generic no-name pads were almost worn out. BUT the fluid had been flushed. Installed new HD pads, turned the rotors and new calipers. With that done I pulled the rear brakes and discovered almost unworn brake shoes with one leaking cylinder. Installed new cylinders and degreased the shoes. Put it all back together. Guess what? poor braking. So I started to research the LSPV and how it worked. With that understood the simple answer was just to crawl under the RV and bend the arm up so that the LSPV was maxed up. Now great brakes. I was lucky in that some time in its life the brake system was flushed. The LSPV still worked. Most Toys have the OEM brake fluid resulting it a gunked up nonworking LSPV. Adjusting the arm does nothing with a gunked up valve. I was lucky... If I had to start with a messed up system this is what I would do. Make the system NEW, new pads shoes, cylinders, calipers and rotors. If the LSPV was questionable I would just remove it. No t fitting. hard line from the MC to the rear brake line flex hose. A simple plug in the bypass line on the front caliper. Brake in the new pads carefully and then try a medium brake test on low traction surface (dirt road) and see if everything locks up at the same time. If the rears lock first then a simple Wilwood manual valve. YMMV
  7. Welcome to the tribe Living in CA with all its laws and a lawsuit society, most RV shops will only install RV rated generators = big $$$$ If you don't have a roof AC now then careful shopping will get you a smaller 9200btu AC that will run on a 2500w portable generator. There may be a lower current draw 11,000btu ac, but it escapes me now. A normal 13.5K AC will need a 3000 w+ generator. There are several threads here of bumper-mounted generators in baffled quiet boxes. Go slow and ask lots of questions, it's easy for "local expert" to steer you off the deep end A side note does your RV have the upgraded 1 ton rear axle Ah ha Colman Mach8 Cub 9200btu 1550w cooling power draw Dometic Penguin 11,000 BTU 1382w cooling power draw
  8. Do you speak electron??? A small microwave will draw 80-100 amps from the battery. 2ga is right on the limit for 90 amps. Modified sine will normally run a modern microwave but at reduced power levelsSemi There are inverters that have a built-in auto transfer switch. The switch will transfer 115v to your normal house wiring. So no tripping. If you are satisfied that your inverter will power your microwave properly. Then there are outboard ATS available. I had my Toy set up with 2 ATS's, generator and inverter, Priority power was shore power, start the generator and it would auto transfer the load. No shore power, no generator, the start the inverter and power was auto transferred. So no matter what the power in was 115ac was sent to the house ac outlets. No schematics sorry. You need a little wiring creativity so that inverter does not power the converter when it's on
  9. Just remember that propane has a higher energy density than a battery. Extended camping will require a solar setup or a generator. Running your truck engine 3 or 4 hr a day to keep your battery up to run the refer isn't really cost effective when you figure in wear and tear and gas.
  10. Try small amounts of expanding spray foam around the frame
  11. Sway-a-way...https://swayaway.com/product/torsion-bar-set-84-95-toyota-pickup-2wd/
  12. Reading material...http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11256-are-my-leaf-springs-blown/
  13. Remove old caulking and reseal with Dicor Lap Sealant
  14. The ceiling is paper glued to luan plywood. Resulting panel was glued-screwed to the rafters. Choices jack up the roof and use a 2x2 floor to ceiling to support it. OR just shave the door
  15. Why bother with a screwdriver, get the real deal...https://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html
  16. Shut off the pump and open the drain valve and let out a few cups of water. Close the drain valve and let the pump refill the tank and your golden.
  17. I don't want anyone to misunderstand, I didn't scream up the mountain passes at 4000 rpm all the time. The passes go up hill for a LONG way, but the grade is changing constantly, at times I'm WOT in 2nd gear at 3300 rpm and other times I'm at 1/2 throttle at 4000 rpm. The idea is to lock the transmission in 2nd to stop upshifting and downshifting as you climb. Vary the throttle instead and cruise up the hill. 2800 rpm at WOT is a lot more stressful on an engine than 3800 at half throttle. If you're in 3rd at 2800 going uphill, you ain't climbing😜
  18. A weird low probability thing is a waterlogged heater. When you summerize your MH you should trap an air bubble in the water heater. Close the drain valve and the pressure release valve at the same time. The pump will fill the heater and there will be the bubble at the top. This lets water expand when it gets hot and helps regulate stable pressure.
  19. Again FWIW, I live in the Rockies every way out of town, except 1, involve an 8,000 to 11,000 ft pass. I drove a 22re, auto and pulled a 5x8ft enclosed trailer for business. My climbing rpm was 4000 rpm with short bursts of 4500 rpm if needed. As an oldskool gearhead, I've followed the 80% rule for sustained rpm. The redline on a 22RE is 5750 rpm so my internal limit was 4600 rpm. The 22re is an oversquare engine, the real limit is the cam and airflow with the stock head. You need to think of CA freeways, Toyota sold a jillion 4sp Pickups and they spent their lives flogging down the road at 70 mph. Thats the combo that built Toyotas reputation as a builder of bulletproof engines.
  20. There is a oneway check valve in the pump it might take a few "blasts" to get it to seat, an old pressure switch. An old pump. Or its normal, stop worrying. A leak usually shows up as the pump cycling through the night This is an accumulator tank for the water system, the built-in air pocket. https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-pumps-water-filters-fixtures/water-pump/water-pump-tank_86-8139
  21. The fact that you didn't have any work done makes, an over the net diagnosis hard. Guesses are, in no particular order. exhaust pipe rattle..broken hanger. Loose torque converter/flex plate. Exhaust shield on the engine is loose. Worn A/C compressor. Loose pullies on the front of the engine. Worn timing chain.. usually shows up when starting the engine. With the engine OFF and COLD lay down and grab the exhaust pipe near the driver's door and shake it.
  22. IMHO 😀 I believe, with a 4cy,l that the 4:88 is correct for the automatic. Using the O/D results in a reduced RPM over just using 3rd. That means you have a usable 4speed. If you have one of the rare 5 speeds then the 4:56 is the right deal. This is because of the difference in the O/D ratios. If you have a 4 speed leave the rear end ratio alone. With the V-6 the 4:56 seem about right for auto or 5 spd
  23. Lift up the range top, most of the time there will be some screws.
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