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Everything posted by WME
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Can't do much for the mechanical issues. But for the future, the solar groups I follow use the tank heaters for their LifePo4 batteries. Short out the built in thermostat, then use one of these to set the desired temp range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W2BYG2L/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?pd_rd_i=B08W2BYG2L&pd_rd_w=BGt2P&content-id=amzn1.sym.eb7c1ac5-7c51-4df5-ba34-ca810f1f119a&pf_rd_p=eb7c1ac5-7c51-4df5-ba34-ca810f1f119a&pf_rd_r=G6DY6CJYA66J7TT9HNES&pd_rd_wg=O9RR3&pd_rd_r=5394c21e-1d68-4d1f-8cdd-db1cf608c2ad&s=home-garden&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1
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I had a semi-beater with one of Earls $49.95 any car, any color paint job. After 4 years I sold it, it looked semi-ok
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The Westafalia, Chinook idea is being reborn. Bring your money in a wheelbarrow. Warning its a sale pitch, but ideas transfer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJDDo_wZDSE
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Well this is different, its defiantly a mix-up. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1995-chevrolet-astro-2/
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This is one of those Motor Homes. From awesome to somthn else. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-great-dale-house-car-1965-dodge-coronet/
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Somewhere in the forum there is a floor repair post. Glued the new plywood down and then drilled 3/8 holes through the new wood and 2/3 of the way through the old floor, made the holes in a grid. Jack the old floor level then coat 3/8 dowels with epoxy and drove them into the holes. Let everything set up, flush cut the dowels and then sanded the floor. Very rigid Idea is new screws will pull out of the old floor, hammering the epoxy coated dowels in forces the epoxy everywhere into cavities in the old floor, much stronger. EDIT found it...https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10066-87-sunrader-floor-project/#comment-93485
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You guys are working too hard...work smarter...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HovJTohrOrg
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https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-ford-f-250/ Just the "right size"
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Spectra TO7D 1990 Toyota V-6, 19 gal.
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Self welding wheel bearing!
WME replied to Toycollector47's topic in Whoops, Mishaps and Murphy's Law
Don't need no stikin socketš¤” Pure shade tree, 2 short bolts in the lock ring and a prybar- 53 replies
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- full floating
- swap axles
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These are some VERY general thoughts on the "Sunrader sag". The design of the floor is OK, but the frame support design is the weak point. The failure mode is there is minimal support from the chassis to the edge of the shell. Over time the foam in the floor fails and the weight of the shell causes the edge of the floor to sag. To prevent the sag from coming back you need to add support from chassis to the edge of shell. Here is ONE answer...https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11856-sunrader-floor-repair-gut-and-rebuild/
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Remove all the fan belts, start the engine. This will tell you if the noise is in the engine or in the stuff bolted on. The #1 noise from the front of the engine is a timing chain tensioner failure. The cam cover needs to come off to check things out. A faliure will result in the timing carving a hole in the front cover, which has coolant in it. Keep engine running to a minimum until you find the noise.
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Don't think sexy, think light. Nida-core, Fiberglass/foam panels, if you use wood panels, router out the backs. Reads. Bob the builder... Sunrader slide in camper...https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/sunrader-70873.html Lite cabinets... Poster bables a bit, but solid info.,,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5h8FdX0l6x8