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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by WME

  1. Some more interesting stuff for small AC apps. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Electric-Conditioner-Compressor-Motorhome/dp/B09GP9RNYZ
  2. I'm working on/designing a lifepo4 system for my RV. I ran across these "all-in-one" units First one is a 12v 1000w inverter, 40 amp Mppt controller and a 20 amp charger. It will run a 700w microwave or a window AC but not for very long The second one is more serious the "Thor special" 24v 2.4kw inverter, 2kw solar, 80 amp Mppt and 60 amp charger. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3acQlTZnS4&list=PL7bvIB2TPsCjn6aAPGc2CHzTl8_sIvyPi&index=3
  3. On my Escaper I used 2 banister rails to lift the roof. Depends on where your counter tops are. But I jacked up the roof and cut the rails to fit, a dab of construction adhesive. Lowered the jack and the rails never moved. I ended up with a 1/2" crown.
  4. Sold for $14,000, less than a Sunrader.
  5. What the sign is talking about is if you are planning to use an external battery charger, car type. If you are using shore power the built in converter charges the battery and you don't disconnect the battery. You will plug your RV into the generator using the shore power cord and all is good. You may need an adapter for the cord depending on what plug is on your cord and what sockets are on the generator
  6. FWIW my "modern" (2003) has a GFI in the kitchen (wet) and the bathroom outlet chained off it (also wet). The other outlets just have a circuit breakers. The setup is 3 outlets=one 15 amp circuit breaker. I like the idea of the outlets on one 15 amp breaker and the converter on the other 15 amp breaker. Any outlet in a wet area should be a GFI.
  7. OK so the 4 breakers in your new power panel will be labeled, 30 amp= Main 20 amp= AC 15 amp= RV 115v outlets 15 amp= power converter ???????
  8. How good, smooth and clean is your roof where you want to mount the new panels?? https://www.ebay.com/itm/265024418292?hash=item3db4afb1f4:g:JBwAAOSwWYtgC91H&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8IK%2BMe9mGX0%2B9ZQFvoT9yanu5bv0E9nykT6bo71EUykPP2tY49xVpf4fi%2F%2F36wrjSrAzynv4jUvsGPf%2BQIGxGZ622C6SLACYF7QgqU7MONKaCUBihJnsWTBsrq550UaZEP3JRm98ia09TiMiRahAUFyEs8H%2BIUNxchWWAQds%2BRylV1g0X0qSZCdxxtD%2F2cBhYJ6wI1PFVdIT471mIEld%2BhwdknTtAXEEu1YKGP9s8vSWDKVj1AdxWTFQ%2FuTUgGIV929dzN9IizJkFVt9oJ6lkplrZbKLEn7Bqq06UtoWItQYoXUjLnYx7NbLmbnoYyoAPQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_j08MyCYQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGuFYoS5nT8
  9. We may have a vocabulary problem. Are you planning to put the AC input for the DC converter on its own breaker?? That is a good plan and would use normal breakers like you already have. If you want a breaker on the DC out of the converter then you need the other breaker, BUT the fuses are for the DC side of things
  10. Make sure the newest 15 amp CB is DC rated before you pop it in. DC and AC do not play well together on the same buss bar. This is a 15 amp 12-110 v DC breaker. https://www.amazon.com/12V-110V-Miniature-Protector-Magnetic-Disconnect/dp/B09H4WQ1QJ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3GKLZFQR5IKO0&keywords=12v+solar+circuit+breaker+15+amp&qid=1666758221&sprefix=12v+solar+circuit+breaker+15+amp%2Caps%2C324&sr=8-4
  11. 95% of RVs are prewired for roof AC. Your should have the wire from the power panel to the roof vent. The output from the 30 amp MAIN in the new panel should go the the common input for the 15 and 20 amp breakers. The output from the 15 amp breaker should go to the household 120 v outlets around the RV AND to the power for the converter. The 20 amp output goes ONLY to the power wire for the AC
  12. The 6345 has 2 serviceable CB, reuse them. You are missing the "main" CB you need a 30 amp main. It will feed the other 2 CB, 15 amp house power and 20 amp A/C power. Yes they total more than 30. But thats OK. Look how the 2 CB are wired and hook their output wires up the same way in the new box. For the 12v side you need a bunch of fuses 25 amp for the converter reverse protection fuses and a 15 amp for each 12v circuit you hook up
  13. After you get your roof problems solved and start working on the solar part of things, you may find this very useful. https://watts247.com/product/pip-1012lv-ms/?wpam_id=3 Minimal wiring and an easy hookup. AND it even saves you $$
  14. My 30 ft Winne Brave has a 10 speed Fantastic Fan, a 13.5K btu AC and a 11K btu AC. The fan gets used the most. Both ACs at the same time is a Las Vegas thing. The fan on low exhaust mode and an open window does wonders at night in the mountains. Fantastic Fan and Maxxair are the good stuff. The other brands are somewhere between poor and a bathroom vent fan capability.
  15. Its actually only 23ft long.
  16. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-gardner-pacific-aero-cruiser/ Nice walk around videos
  17. The coil over won't go through the lower A-arm. Some HD shocks are hard to fit just by themselves. Go for HD torsion bars, Sway-a-way and Northwestoffroad both offer HD bars.
  18. Actually , there is a class for alcohol dragsters. But Top Fuel is Nitromethane, usually in the 85-90% range. They need a little alcohol to get the fire lit. FWIW a TF dragster will burn about 15 gallons of fuel in 4 seconds and the life span of the engine is less than 30 sec.
  19. IF you could carefully remove the beams, you can use a chain and a bottle jack to bend them (think bow and arrow). Then reinstall them and bolt through the roof and pull up the center. Like you said 3/4" would do a lot of good.
  20. With winter coming on, I'm sure it will be to cold to work outside🤪. So some lite reading... "Nida-core" and End Grain Balsa carbon fiber panels
  21. Propane and LPG are the same, but not all LPG is propane, perfectly clear right?🤔 Most Tri-fuel generators are propane, natural gas and gasoline. FWIW this is my Zombie Apocalypse set up. 3500w HF inverter generator, with a home made portable A frame shelter. Shelter is for noise and rain/snow. For the generator I keep 3 gallons of sealed long term storage fuel in metal cans. The generator is stored empty of fuel. The 3 gallons will last for 1 day. For squirrel induced outages or a car hitting a power pole that's enough fuel. But if a forecasted disaster shows up on the radar, a quick trip to the gas station gets me 20 gal of generator gas and 60 gallons in the RV just in case things go south. It takes about 5-10 min to drag the generator out of storage, hook it up, fuel it and get things back on line. I have a manual transfer switch that has 6 circuit breakers. Lights, heater fan, microwave/fridges, TV/computer/charger for wife's CPAP "solar generator", washer/drier motors. I have natural gas for heat, hot water, cooking and a clothes drier. Things just normally coast at night, without the generator. Our "disasters" are usually a blizzard so no AC, but HEAT is good. The unused breaker feeds a dedicated outlet in the bedroom just in case there is a summer disaster and we need a small window AC for a while. The solar panels are maybe ,depending on things, not much solar gain in a whiteout with 40 mph winds The RV can always become the lifeboat, as in leave before the storm. I guess your disasters are different and Ca. has fires and earthquakes, so a bit of adjustment is needed.
  22. Agree "solar generator" is misnamed, probably by some salesman, a better name would be a portable UPS. I built one of the DIY milk crate units and it cost less per watt than the commercial units. Its for power outages around the home. It will power the wife's CPAP for 2 days or a household fridge for 10 hours. The big deal is the CPAP, no generator making Carbon-monoxide all night long and trying to sneak into the house. A 200w solar panel will recharge it in 4 -5 hours. My dinky 1200w inverter generator will recharge it in 3-4 hours. Not about $$$ or practicality , but a Tesla Power Wall will run a Coleman Mach 1 for about 10 hours continuously. The Will Prowse guy has a bunch of YouTube videos about solar and a forum site. diysolarforum.com. He is into mostly off grid power and ripping things apart to evaluate quality
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