WME

FWIW Drive around town untill you get 40mi or so on it, lots of stop signs/stop lights. Load both sides of the gears. After the in-town break-in, drain out some rear oil and look for sparkles. No sparkles refill oil to the correct level. Go for your trip. Got sparkles? Oh 💩 "Don't pull a trailer" is going to be tough. You basically have a pickup pulling an 18ft trailer. Just go slow

They make a special grease for poly bushings... https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-11110-Pack-Formula/dp/B000N5Z408/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=polyurethane+bushing+grease&qid=1670388869&sr=8-5 Suitable substitute. Outboard lower unit grease aka " whale snot", it's very water proof

Set all the pieces side by side take a photo and send it to ARB. The reason for PO abuse comment is how loose the original bushing sleeve would be on the original bolt Also the teeth on the ends of original bushing sleeve look like it's from a control arm bushing.

Your 2nd photo looks right. You are assuming that what you removed is OEM, but it is equally possible that it is the wrong part installed by a PO.

Restored 1985 Mirage...https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1985-toyota-mirage-camper/

I built one of the milk crate "solar generator" I'm using a Weize 50ah battery, works fine. It powers my wife's CPAP during at home power outages. It also does duty as a fridge power supply during daylight and an occasional trip around the lake powering a trolling motor.

Well maybe, I'm slowly reworking the 12v system in my Winnie. Added 200w more solar, a 2000/4000w inverter and an auto transfer switch. This is all about running the coffee maker and microwave for a group breakfast, WITHOUT running the generator at 7:30 am. All looks good. Next project is batteries. My current set is 2 lead acid 6v 230ah golf cart batteries. Being what they are I have around 115ah of useful power. They are 5 years old so planning for replacements is in order. 2 Trojan T-105s are $900 shipped and 2 Vmax GC-2s are $700. Rummaging around Amazon a pair of 140ah 12v LifePo4 batteries are $800. A 140ah LifePo4 will give you the full 140ah. The internal BMS shuts the battery off before it can be discharged to far. So for middle $$ I would get more power and a battery with 5000-7000 charge cycles vs lead acid batteries 500 charge cycles. The T-105s weigh 66lbs each and the 140ah Lifepo4 weigh 32 lbs each.j While looking at voltages and AH combo for batteries, the 12v AC pages popped up. It seems the EPA is now officially frowning on 18 wheelers idling all night to run the cab AC when the driver's are sleeping. So there are now 12v, 24v and 48v cab AC units. A side solution to the power problem, there now auto start 12v, 24v, 48v direct drive tri-fuel generators. So someone who is into weight reduction and has a big budget can setup a complete 24v system for their RV. It would run the 12v subsystems, the AC, Fridge and the microwave. 400w of solar for the daytime, 400ah of LifePo4 batteries and the right size direct drive generator A typical 3000w RV generator is in the 120lb range. The 12v/24v direct drive generators are in the 60lb range and will deliver 120 amps. You could bring your Toyota in to the FUTURE for the modest sum of $7000. On a $200,000 tractor trailer that's not a big deal, on a $4000 toy it's a big deal. But the future is coming and maybe the $$ will become more reasonable. The 140ah LifePo4s were $1500 ea 5 years ago

Random thoughts Some one bumped the on/off switch on the thermostat (not temp switch.) Bad fuse in the 12v power panel Some heaters have a separate fuse in the heater for the fan motor. The motor is so old that the bearings lock up and blow a fuse. The typical sign of a low battery is a slow running fan motor, but it does run. No fan is usually NO power

Champion, Onan Inverter, Harbor Freight, =$$ Honda, Yamaha = $$$ Onan RV = $$$$. The Onan 2800 Microlite was the factory installed unit. Look at the portable units carefully. The Onan 2500i is the same as a Westinghouse 2500, or vice versa. Same unit for less$$ is a no brainer

2000w will run a roof AC if a Micro Air 364 is installed. A 3000w AC will run a stock roof AC. Microwave 364 is $300, price generators and see what you total$$ is. A bumper mounted generator is the bang for your buck solution

Something to think about, running the roof AC from an inverter means you will be pulling 80-100 amps from your battery/alternator.

BAT strikes again...https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1961-mercedes-benz-o321h/

Didnt see the part about the stove going out. So the regulator is suspect. If this ever happens when boondocking don't forget to relight the fridge

Unlikely the regulator is the problem. Factory heaters are 1 try and out to get the fire going, if it fails the heater fan keep running. Look up Dinosaur Boards they have a smart replacement control board...http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm

People who bought a used RV with a 13.5 kbtu AC with no generator and only have a 1200w budget. The Victron is not the answer for that person because of the cost, BUT future versions of the technology might be the problem solver. Especially if a generator mfg would incorporate that electronic technology in a generator. Next gen inverter generator ?? 1500w generator with a 10ah battery. Sigh🙄... Yamaha makes one 3000w + 500w boost only $3400 and of course with 3000w a toy house A/C doesn't need the boost🙄 But the right size one is comming

I've been designing/building a DIY power wall sort of thing as a whole house non generator power backup. In the research I discovered a possible solution to a common toy RV problem Little generator/big A/C. Your generator will run your A/C but it won't start it, even with a ez start. The magic box feeds your generator power through it to your A/C and when the A/C tries to start, the box borrows the needed extra power from your house battery. After the A/C compressor starts the box uses the generator to recharge the battery while running the A/C. Sounds cool doesn't it, problem is $$$. But at least it is real and there may be less expensive units in the future. Read on, the Victron Mulitplus ...https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers

The freezer reacts faster, put the thermometer in the freezer

There is a thermocouple in the flame burner as a safety device. Pushing button C bypasses it and will let gas flow. You have to keep holding it down until the flame heats up the thermocouple enough to keep the gas valve open. After a long storage there is air in the gas line and it will take a while to purge it out. Keep trying. If the heater thermostat on/off switch is on and the temp is set max, the fan should be running. Check the fuse, can you find away to see if the fan will turn? The process goes like this thermostat sees the need for heat and closes contact, sending 12v to fan motor. Fan runs and clears the heater of possible gas, time delay switch keeps just the fan running long enough to make sure any gas is cleared out and then the air flow closes the sail switch. That sends a voltage to the gas valve and to the spark coil to light things up. Fan is old and turns slow or a bad house battery and not enough air flow to close the sail switch. So no gas, no spark. No heat. Heater problems... dirty/corroded fan motor, bad sail switch, mud dauber nest in vent pipe (no air flow), bad spark coil, a bad thermocouple. In your diagram the sail switch looks to be #8 on the partial page. You made need a trip to your local RV repair shop P.S. a cheap digital volt meter, $8 Harbor Freight, is a requirement for owners of old rv's.

If an RV fridge goes bad usually there is a strong ammonia smell. If it has set for a long time the smell would be gone. There should be a vented cover on the outside of the RV, looked like yours is by the rear awning arm. Plug in your RV to shore power and turn the fridge to electric and turn the thermostat to max. Wait 10 min and open the outside cover and see if the boiler is getting warm. It's the tall cylinder thing on the right side. If warm it's working, but there may have been a crack in a tube and the magic escaped. No heat? check to see if the outlet has 115v AC. AC good then bad heater, no 115v check power panel. Then check gas operation. Turn on stove to verify propane is working. Switch fridge to gas follow the steps and see if you get a flame. There should be a tin cover on the boiler that you can remove to look for the flame. You may need 2 people one to push button c and the other to hold a BBQ lighter by the burner. You may need an air compressor to blow the rust and spider webs out of the burner. Non use can be cruel RV things.

Can you post a picture of the fridge control panel?

No compressor, you have an absorption refrigerator, it runs off heat. It may take several hours to start cooling. Heater thermostat may have an on/off switch on the bottom, you have to have it on and raise the temp slider to 80+ degrees

The fridge should be on a circuit breaker not a fuse. Check the power panel. You do know that the fridge is 115v AC and propane Plug in the RV to shore power and try the heater again. Sometimes the house battery is low and it doesn't turn the heater blower fast enough to trip the safety sail switch

Is it a Hose or a wire?? s the dangling end broken or is it finished??

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https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-fmc-motorhome-2/ It's has a Chrysler 440 set up as a pusher.