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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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About WME

  • Rank
    Over 200 Posts!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Camping, fishing, kayaking, OLD CARS

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1986 Escape, rear bed, side bath, A/C, 2.8 Onan 22re, auto.
    Current rig 2003 30ft Winnebago Brave Class A
    Workhouse chassis, slide
  • Location
    Riverton WY

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  1. Check where your your shore power cord goes into the camper. The fuse box should be inside near where the power cord goes through the wall. It should have a plastic or tin cover.
  2. A bit pricey for this crowd, but lots of cool ideas. https://www.businessinsider.com/ismove-90390-luxury-motorhome-accommodate-up-to-5-people-2020-9
  3. Well checked with my buds at GOOGLE🤪 here's a starting place. https://www.goodsam.com/campgrounds-rv-parks/snowbird/state/default.aspx?stateid=CA&regionid=4&state=California&region=Southern%20California Indian Waters looks the best on paper. Just remember that your acreage is going to be the 15 ft between parked RV
  4. What he said about the 2K$$ A compression check and a leak down check would tell you a lot and may change the value a bunch.
  5. Yep my Escaper did the same thing. 2X4 x8 ft long. 2x4 6 ft long. Take the 6ft and stand it up on edge on the 10ft. A few long screws. When you look from the end it should be a T. Some cargo straps all the way around the camper. I used a slower glue. Apply the glue the full width of the separation, hold up the 2x4 so it is on the seam and tighten the cargo straps. Wait over night. The T shape gives more leverage for the straps to pull against. Maybe you holding just a 2x4 and fast glue would work, but this is what I did,
  6. Is there a fan belt routing decal on the hood? May be you have the belt misrouted. Every thing I've worked on there is ether a separate tension adjuster or the pump, alternator, ac compressor moves away from the engine.
  7. Plenty parts, Home Depot, mail order, your local RV place. You need a couple of unions, a T fitting, an inline valve, a 90 degree fitting and some pipe. There 2 types of easy fittings the CST push on and the type with the threaded lock nut. Use the inline valve and 90 degree fitting to replace the broken drain valve. https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-pumps-water-filters-fixtures/plumbing-fittings
  8. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/7050-1987-toyota-escaper-frame-reinforcement-for-motorcycle-hauler-lots-of-pics/
  9. Read this entire thread for starters. Here is a post about installing a Honda in an existing generator box...https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20038531/print/true.cfm Here is a USA made sound box...https://www.zombie-box.com/ Proceed at your own risk.
  10. Just looking at things I THINK that the 2 ends should connect to a t and the t to the drain valve. Duplicate the other line. New fittings and a drain valve from your local RV store. Shark Bite fittings will connect things
  11. If Sunrader had built the frame like your doing, there would be a bunch more of them around these days.
  12. What transmission do you have? Your driving an overloaded, under powered, 40 year old pickup. If your REALLY giving thought to newer, bigger rig, just drive it. HP cost $$ how fast is your wallet? Upgrade steps Stage 1. Weber carb and cam...105HP. A Weber 32/36 will give you a small increase in hp and MPG. A 38/38 will you more HP and less MPG. Both bolt on with an adapter. A camshaft with a degree rating of around 270 is OK. To much more than that is more HP at full throttle and a bunch less grunt at lower rpms. Mountain pass speed 38 mph Stage 2. A 22r with same cam and
  13. They come in about 10 different flavors (heights) here a starting place. Long header https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R41LE0/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B003R41LE0&pd_rd_w=exn98&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=YTMDG&pf_rd_r=D7AG1NTJC6P5G5PZ37CA&pd_rd_r=d1f303ac-99a1-4358-9b48-ba717f1b7dd4&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSjFBT1kwN1RBTjJXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDkyMTgwMjRQSUVaNzhTS1dFSCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzMxMDA2Mk1WWTY5R0ZYVFZEUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
  14. My spare was mounted in the factory position. When I replaced my tires, I dropped the spare to replace it with the best on road tire. There were blisters on the spare tire from the exhaust pipe. I took a 18" piece of a 1/2" larger exhaust and split it length wise. I tacked 4, 3/8" nuts to the inside. I used stainless hose clamps to strap it to the exhaust as a heat shield. Worked great no more more heat related problems with spare
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