Jump to content


Toyota Advanced Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About WME

  • Rank
    Over 200 Posts!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Camping, fishing, kayaking, OLD CARS

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1986 Escape, rear bed, side bath, A/C, 2.8 Onan 22re, auto.
    Current rig 2003 30ft Winnebago Brave Class A
    Workhouse chassis, slide
  • Location
    Riverton WY

Recent Profile Visitors

6,265 profile views
  1. Do the lower bushings look as good as the uppers? Big torque requires 6 point socket and tools. A 12 point will round off the nut and bolts under high torque
  2. If your are serious extended stay boondocker, you need to install LED lighting and add a 100w solar panel. If you demand all the comforts of home then 2 coach batteries and 200w of solar will let you boondock for weeks at a time. The thing with solar is you can start with a 100w setup and easily add more later if you find your lifestyle requires more power. When I started boondocking, my first set up was a 80AH battery and a 60w panel. In the summer it was awesome. In the cold, with the heater running, the solar panel doubled the days between generator runs to charge the battery
  3. Yep, you have a battery boiler. As a suggestion go here and read up on "upgrading" things to a modern converter...http://www.bestconverter.com/Upgrade-Kits-for-MagnetekParallax_c_64.html This might be simpler than your original plan
  4. Your overthinking things. A modern 4 stage converter will have an equalizer charge every day or so to act as a desulphator. What converter do you have?? I hace a 3 stage converter so I use one of these on my batteries. https://www.pulsetech.net/pp-12-l-powerpulse-12-volt-battery-maintenance-system.html So far my 4 year old batteries are OK. It powers itself from the battery so you need to keep your RV plugged in or add a solar setup. If you still want a switch the boat guys have good water proof switches...https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Rota
  5. OK, To drain the water heater... There is a drain petcock behind the burner tube. Open it (It probably turns backwards) Then lift up on the lever on the pressure relief valve, this lets air into the tank. Its above the thermostat. FWIW the copper pipe is for the propane. Best guess, the valve on the gray pipe is most likely low point drain. The gray stuff was withdrawn for RV use. Replace as much as you can with real PEX. If you just to repair it check out Sharkbite fittings.
  6. No photos, After 2 years in Thailand I know what a Howdah is supposed to be. But brand name of the heater would be more helpful, the pictures even more🙄
  7. FWIW, My hot rods get ProForged, second choice is Moog, for a Toyota 3rd is Beck/Arnley, all the others are last choice.
  8. It seems that rule 1 of a motor home is that you always have a flat on the rear axle🤪. The absolute best thing to do is find a nice safe place and practice changing a rear tire. Its a lot better to learn how to change a tire in a safe place than on the side of the road in the rain at night. A corner of a Walmart lot is nice, because if you find out you need something then you can just go buy it.
  9. Are you going to replace the lower control arm bushings. If you are then you will need to relax the torsion bar so you can unbolt its bracket from the LCA. The bar has no moving parts so it won't need "servicing".
  10. Will your spare fit on the rear?? If it does your OK. If it won't, the question is would 3 tires support the rear weight so that you can limp in to the next repair place. With the correct tires (185R14C) several of us have limped over 100 mi to a repair center. We had the 5 bolt fronts and a proper 6 bolt 1 ton rear.
  11. Looks good. FWIW you have KYB shocks, a working one should take 40 lbs + of pressure to collapse it. If you try and remove the shock beware all of the force from the torsion spring is on the lower control arm. Block it up with a jack or something before removing the shock
  12. WME


    I keep hoping for Derek to pop up and repeat Mark Twain's quote about his demise.
  13. The "gallon" is only a small joke. But the front is badly cruded up and then there is the rear axle. Hot soapy water, wire brush, and a spray can of carb cleaner might be enough. Walmart Super Tech carb cleaner works well and is cheap. Brake cleaner comes 2 ways chlorinated and non-chlorinated. Chlorinated works best but has bad fumes, and will strip all the oil out of your skin. Its called "safety solvent" for a reason, in the old days you used gasoline and lots of booms resulted. It runs about $23 a gallon. The rotors look good. When the time comes use DOT
  14. What is your spare tire situation?
  • Create New...