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Supurcar

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Supurcar

  • Birthday 10/01/1964

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  1. I started to swap out a few of my markers with the LEDs. I did the other way around, I did the side markers first. I found it was a bit of work because the LEDs I used where flush mount and not much room for the wires, I had to make the holes a little bit bigger to make it work. I did notice the wires are very corroded, and I would gues that might be a common issue with older Sunraders. I have had to battle the same issue with my tailights (ground). You may have already done this, but nip the wires and restrip to get some fresher wire to connect to.
  2. Looks like your's is exactly like my Sundrader, floor plan and all. The window came out great! I still have not dealt with the window issue, I was quoted $1200 by a local boat guy, which falls in line with "b.o.a.t." Break Out Another Thousand. I was shocked by that quote I would gladly pay 2 or 3 hundred to get mine glassed over. For now I am using black gorilla duct tape over the problem area, no leaks and it is almost a match for the original decal and rubber around/ between the windows, but very half a$$. I have thought of using the bedliner coating (Rhino etc.) and just go over the entire thing, rubber, window, and all. I have seen restorations on old Broncos where they used that stuff for the floor and removed the doors (very indoor-outdoor) and it looked great and very thick and durable.The roughness might lose some of the aero dynamics...who am I kidding what aero dynamics?... lol.
  3. They should make a K&N that fits the stock air box, so you do not have to buy the snout and it should cost less. I clean my Mass Airflow Sensor with Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner, it will help give the proper reading to the computer which will adjust the fuel mixture. There might be another sensor on the exhaust depending on the year of the vehicle, if this goes bad it could also cause the fuel mixture to be adjusted improperly by giving a false reading and tripping the check engine light. When my cars start to lose power or not running at their best I start by cleaning the dist. cap (knock the corrosion off the contacts & rotor), plugs, injection/carb cleaner, MAF sensor cleaner, and check the air filter, and fuel filter. If this does not help (almost no cost to do this), then you may have a bigger problem maybe a cracked vacuum line you cannot see or a bad oxygen sensor (I think there are two depending on the year). Just adding my two cents.... On the K&N thing, I have heard newer engine control modules or computers will compensate for cold air intakes, and even chips. So we pay all this money to get more air going thru the engine and the computer makes an adjustment to negate it. Given the age of most of these Toyotas in here I do not think we need to worry about this. As far as dirt and junk getting in, as long as the particle is not big enough to break a valve I am not too worried, ha ha.
  4. Good list! I might touch on a few other ares as well, We all know Toyotas are very reliable to begin with hence the loyal following on these pages. I replaced my shocks with the Rancho 5000 heavy duty shocks. I also inspected/repaired the air lines for my airbags as one line was sagging on the exhaust and was melting (I think a zip tie must have let go). Make sure the exterior lights and markers are working, I think these have a problem with the wires getting old and corroded and not having a good ground. Yearly inspection of the propane lines and water lines and I think you might have covered just about everything......
  5. Cool, I crawled under there and found the leaker, all I had to do was loosen the clamp, nip off the tip of the hose about a 1/2 inch and re-attach it. I think the hose clamps just loosened up so I tightened every hose clamp I could see. NO MORE LEAKS!!! The funny parts is we had the RV sold, and had a deposit as well. They came back a couple days later and said they could not get a loan, but the guy was nervous about the leaks. I think he thought the transmission was no good because of the leaks, lol. So now I fixed all the leaks (and it only just started leaking recently, more of a drip really), found every squeak and rattle and fixed them, fixed the gear indicator pointer thing in the steering column. And guess what? We like it so much we changed our mind about selling it, I think we where just sad about losing our dog because this thing was as much for her as us. It just drives to smooth and quiet, I do not think I would be able to replace it.
  6. We still take our dogs everywhere with us, someone even called our Sunrader a giant dog crate as a joke. Sadly we lost one of our Jack Russells last month, she had a tumor and there was nothing we could do about it so now we are down to two Jack Russells . We actually got the Sunrader for her, we will miss little Jetty-Jack of Hearts Jet.
  7. Our dogs are why we got our Sunrader, so we would not have to kennel them. We had three Jack Russell terrors. We simply stacked their crates in the shower with some foam and towels and one would be up with us. It is interesting but a lot of fun and we can not imagine going anywhere with out them.
  8. I have been getting ready for spring and trying to take care fo a few issues. Mine is still running great, and only has about 80k miles. I have notice some leaking up front near the radiator, and it is tranny fluid. Upon further inspection I see a short hose which appears to be going to the transmission coolor in the radiator, and it is soaked and the fluid is dripping slowly from the bottom of the radiator (I assume it is cracked). It should be an easy fix, but before I jump in I wanted to see if anyone has had a similar problem. Will tranny fluid pour out of it when I remove the hose? And does anyone know what size the hose is, so I don't have to remove it and go down to the store to match it, while it is leaking everywhere. I think if I am quick enough and have the replacement hose in hand, I should be able to swap it out without making a giant mess. Thanks for the tips
  9. Well I had some nylon strapping string and I carefully tied it on the dial nub (for lack of a better name for it), and ran it thru the column and tied it off. There was some slack at first, but I put it thru the gears slowly and kind of tapped the shifter and it actually sinched up the knot enough to work. Thanks for the suggestions, it appears to working now, every once in a while I have to nudge the shift lever to get the pointer to line up perfectly but it is a lot better than nothing.
  10. I am not sure about the water shooting out of the inlet. I had a similar damp carpet one time. Mine was leaking under the kitchen sink, a little water trickled down the lines and ended up hitting the flooring under the cabinet right next to my water holding tank, which made me think I hit it my tank with a nail or staple when I re-carpeted. I got lucky as that was not the case, I got under there and tightened all the fittings I could see and my leak went away. I found it was best to check all the water lines every year as they seemed to leak a little from time to time. My city water connection had to be replaced because it also started to leak bad one year, I think the weight of the water hose might have slowly wore out the fitting or split the metal. Good luck finding/fixing the leak...
  11. I am wondering if anyone can help me discover what you would call this part, and where on earth to find it. My gear indicator on the sterring column (moves from park to "D" or "R" or "N" when shifted) has broken a little cable inside. I took it apart and there is a small braided cable that wraps around the thing and thru a gear which moves the red arrow so you can tell what gear you are in. I might be able to fabricate something, but I was hoping someone in here already had the solution and what in the world I ask for when trying to order a replacement cable. Thanks!!!
  12. Hello it has been a while since I have posted. I still read the threads all the time though. My wife and I use our little Sunrader all the time, but of late we find it frustrating that there is not quite enough room to sleep comfortably together. I decided to improvise a solution, it is not real fancy but it seems to be a good quick fix to our dilema. We had an old sofa with a tilt out backing, which I tore out and will now sell to the highest bidder.. lol. I have a storage box across from it, which I covered with vinyl and super compressed foam a couple years ago (I may have posted pics in a previous thread). So I ran some rails on each side of the boxes after doing some reinforcements. And I had the idea to set a couple of pieces of plywood (cut to fit and covered with foam and something nicer than vinyl) across the rails and walla here it is. I am sure we will use an air mattress or something over the top of all of this, but it is quite comfy as it is. And we can now use the cab over section for more storage space! And we only spent $42.00!!!!!
  13. This may be old news, but I can make iron on tranfers of almost any pictures with my printer. If there was a logo picked it would be easy to transfer to shirts and I can also photo shop the pictures to customize it or add text and then create an iron on-FYI
  14. I have seen a few websites that carry these chrome hubcaps that would make a standard truck look like it has a dually rim. They have built in bolts and all and look very realistic, I ran into a guy who sells hubcaps, and I mentioned I am looking for chrome insets to put in my Sunraders rims, he told me of these chrome hubcaps that are available. I pointed to the rims on his giant delivery truck and told him I wanted my rims to look like his, he then said that his WHERE the chrome hubcaps, and they fooled me they looked so real. The problem is that I can only find them in a 16" size, the 14" is very outdated. I have seen some 14" insets but they are pricey. So I wanted to see if anyone in here has heard of them or has a line on finding a set. I have attached this link so you can see what I am talking about. http://www.autoameni...l-Simulator.htm
  15. pops in once in a while

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