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ATXBreeze

Toyota Advanced Member
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About ATXBreeze

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1989 Itasca
  • Location
    Austin, Texas

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  • Website URL
    https://sites.google.com/view/atxtraveler/home?authuser=0

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Traveling! Reading, exploring, and a little cooking.

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  1. Thank you so much, re: the dashpot, and thanks Linda for your trusty reply 😀 No, I haven't removed it and cleaned it, maybe I oughta give that a try. https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/20504-engine-problems-egr-vacuum-hose-leak-tps/#comment-134310Here , btw, is my problem, posted last week Since I haven't found a rebuild kit for said throttle body, and rebuilding it seems like a long shot, except for maybe a new gasket. I'll come back to one of my original questions re: an Upgrade. Anyone know if my 3.0L 3VZ-E throttle body can be replaced with another, more modern Toyota throttle body, one that is still actually for sale? (already replaced TPS, EGR, and will, later today, the fuel pressure gauge) As always, Many Thanks!
  2. Having a devil of a time finding a throttle body replacement for a1989 Micro Sprit (Toyota Truck 3.0L 3VZ-E). Except for some awful one's on eBay (eg, rusted and beat up, $200-$300) it's impossible to find a new one. But I seem to remember someone mentioning that they were able to "upgrade" their throttle body on their 3.0L 3VZ-E 6 cylinder with a newer one, a throttle body that's still old somewhat at large (parts geek, rock auto, Autozone, et.al.) Any leads in this direction would be most welcome! And by the way, can someone please tell me what this part (yellow arrow) is? It's spring loaded, has a boot, but doesn't alway "open up" as in slide open, when the depressor is moved away. Thank you!
  3. The spritz of "starter fluid" on all the vacuum lines was the very first test I tried, but it produced no noticeable difference in the engine to indicate a leak a vacuum hose leak 🙁 The crazy smoke test I did with a cigar I saw someone do it on, where else, YouTube! A faulty bad booster had crossed my mind regarding my stopping issue. But would a bad booster cause the engine to run lousy and "huff and puff" like in my posted video? Also, the power steering component leaks oil. I know the power steering is connected to the vacuum system. It's never been great a producing "power steering" after I top off, (turning the steering wheel somewhat smoothly) but eventually provides no help and the wheel becomes hard to turn, but not impossible. BTW, I've tried to take it to a shop, but nobody will work on a 1989 Toyota truck! Thank You, and please keep the suggestions coming! 😀
  4. Hi Folks! My 1989 Micro Sprit (Toyota Truck 3.0L 3VZ-E) starts right up every time, but after the engine drops to idle, it begins to huff and puff as seen in the video, especially highlighted in the shot of the muffler. While test driving, it accelerates smoothly and with plenty of power. But when I get to a stop, it begins the rough idle I described, and “huffing and puffing” (video). And although I’m applying the brakes, it wants to move forward, even occasionally inching forward. When cruising, if I take my foot off the accelerator, the engine will “miss”, but as soon as I accelerate, it goes away. Stuff I have done so far: Changed the throttle position sensor. Did a smoke test, but not a very good one (blew cigar smoke into the hose that goes into brake booster). Changed air filter. Rotor, distributor cap, wires and plugs are all fairly new. Timed correctly. MPG same as it ever was. Symptoms similar to what MaineJed posted on this thread No misfire. No check engine light. Should I swap out the EGR next? Perform a better smoke test? Could it be the fuel filter? Or a failing fuel pump, or something having to do with the fuel system? All suggestions are welcome, and thank you! IMG_8086.MOV
  5. If I'm gonna replace one faulty fuel injector, I'm gonna go ahead and replace all six (Denso). The fuel injectors are OEM Toyota parts, 34 years old, probably still good, but who knows. Without disassembly, I was able to get a finger on the faulty fuel injector and it was very loose. I could easily move it from side to side. The two flanking injectors were rigid and solidly in place. Replacement on a 3.0L 3VZE-E will be something of a challenge! I'm gonna give it a go, but my mechanic will be on standby
  6. Micro Spirit, 3.0L 6 cylinder sat for 9+ months, started right up last week, but running super rough (ran beautifully for 9 month, 6K mile road trip prior that ended last March). When I took it for an initial ride, it seemed to run just fine for a few miles, then began to run rough and "put-put-put" along with diminished power. Had a quarter tank of "old gasoline", took it gas station and filled it up (mixed old gas with new). As of today, still puttering w diminished power. Things I had done: Pulled the plug wires one by one, and determined cylinder number 4 was not firing. Pulled spark plug and checked compression - dial showed over 100. Tried a new plug wire. No change Checked and double checked all vacum hoses. Replaced distributor and rotor. No change Using a long screw driver, listened to #4 fuel injector and it was clicking like mad (it was working) BUT, it's possible said injector is clogged and not spraying at all, or incorrectly. Today, I poured some Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner and added several gallons of gas to see if this resolves things. Replacing the fuel injector is a pain, so maybe I should be patient. I've read it may take up to 100 miles before the F.I. cleaner does it's trick. I've put less than 30 miles on the RV so far. Thank You!
  7. Success. Not only did I get the original 1989 Norcold refrigerator out, it went right thru the the cabin door. Fridge measured 24" in diameter, door was an inch wider. Two side bolts had to be removed. At first I thought they were not connected to the fridge, but alas, they were. Two side panels had been added to the original Norcold and they extended to the small outer compartment where the holes to bolt them on were. Took them off and slid it out.
  8. Thanks Linda! I removed the side bolts (last picture I uploaded) and that was it! Sliding it out presently. I'll DL the manual for future possible ref 🙂
  9. There are 2 bolts, one of either side on the interior of the exterior compartment where I can see the bottom part of the refrigerator. I hesitated to remove them because I thought they were not part of the Norcold because they are not attached the the sheet metal (I have seem two screw removed from bottom sheet metal for removal, but I don't have those). Could the 2 bolts be what's holding my refrigerator and preventing me from removing it? Thanks!
  10. Hey! Hope some of you are still out there 😀 but here I am in 2023 with a similar problem that OP had in 2014. Here's a link to my post:
  11. Hello! Been wresting while trying to remove a Norcold factory fridge out of my Toyota RV 1989 Micro Spirit. Have seen several videos, including a link posted on this site that's pretty good, different ToyRV than mine, but close (cabbieland, http://cabbieland.byethost31.com/Sea-Breeze-Refrigerator.html?i=2) I have followed directions am am stuck with the final removal (sliding out the old Norcold) I believe its the final bolting screws located in the back of the Norcold, on the outside. Cabbiland poster describes it this way: "I turned off the propane and disconnected the copper line, then unplugged the electrical cord. I removed the refrigerator door (one bolt at the top). The refrigerator was secured with two screws into the floor in the back (I cant locate these screws) of the unit, and four screws on the front flange. After removing those screws, the old refrigerator slid easily into the inside of the RV." This youtube video looks a lot like my Norcold from the compartment located on the outside. And here are numerous photos of my progress. Thank You! Wide shot of outdoor compartment, CU of right side, CU of left side, Norcold on the inside of the RV, and a shot of the panel
  12. Hi Linda. Can you please pass along a web link to where a " small portable AC unit" just like yours are sold. Amazon? Thanks!
  13. Hi Linda! Can you please pass along a link to where one might purchase a "small portable AC unit" like your. Amazon perhaps? Thanks!
  14. I've actually thought of removing the rooftop AC unit too, but the Austin summers, which are intense and darn near oppressive, have kept me from pulling it off and sealing the RV opening. The only thing stopping me is (when not traveling), is I live in my RV back home for about 6 months The AC unit's loud, but still produces a good amount of cold air and plenty of summertime relief. Now I gotta get work and seal the unit to stop the leak. I'm in Santa Fe and only have a handful of sunny days of good weather left to do it!
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