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Gottasmilealot

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  1. If you don't get it working right, do yourself a favor and replace the whole heater if it's original. They're reasonably priced and easy to install. The new ones are in Styrofoam and insulated better. No use replacing the valve then having the tank go on you. I just did mine last year.
  2. I just replaced all my tires last weekend for $500.00 installed complete, balanced, new stems, etc.. The tires have a D weight rating, as do several of the brands available, which is better than the C rating if you lose a tire, the other three on the axle will hold the weight. I used Creamery tire in Creamery, PA, if you're in the southeast PA area. They were great. In and out with 6 tires installed in 30 minutes, including a 10 minute wait to get the RV in the bay. Can't beat that.
  3. I purchased a battary operated combination smoke and CO detector at Walmart for about $35.00. It works good, and I bring it in the house over the winter when my wood stove is in use.
  4. The hazard is probably not the tank so much as the fact that it's inside where vapors can be ignited in the event of leakage or activation of the relief valve, which is why all tanks are mounted outside or under the vehicle when manufactured. Portable tanks should never be brought inside. Aside from the resulting explosion and fire, the problems are minimal. ;-) The same risk exists with portable oxygen tanks. http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=481&sid=2062265
  5. Look at page 26. http://www.bargman.com/Lights/PDF/Ceq-Ligh...s40-65-2007.pdf
  6. Mine sleeps two in the overhead bunk and two on the dinette bed, however, the rig works best with only two, as there's really not enough storage room for more than two adults. Two adults and two kids are doable for a weekend. The other consideration is safety. The dinette seats have seat belts, but the dinette is across the back of the rig, which has riders sitting sideways to the forward motion of the vehicle, so the seatbelt benefit is greatly diminished.
  7. The issue with tunnels is the additional risk that containerized propane can add to an emergency incident. That's why there are limits on tank size. The risk of a BLEVE when a combustible liquid container is exposed to fire is a concern. That's why other hazardous materials are regulated as well, it's not just propane. You're more likely to cause ignition with a static spark than your RV is with it's systems.
  8. "How often have you heard of a RV burning up or exploding because the propane tank or cylinder was turned on while driving down the road." None, but I'm sure there have been incidents. What a crock. A propane system is unsafe only if it leaks, in which case it would be unsafe whether it's parked or moving. I can see no good reason to alarm people about using a system as it is designed to be used. I run mine on propane while travelling and electric when plugged in. I camp without hookups most of the time. The setup works great. That's what it's there for. I'm sure not going to buy an RV then travel with an unpowered refrigerator. Stupid. Also, I don't avoid using tires because they might go flat either.
  9. That's why you have a propane powered refrigerator, so you can run it while travelling.
  10. I have two 12 volt circuits fed from the fuses under the electrical center. If the wiring was damaged, causing the fuse to blow, then you really need to trace the circuit starting right at the panel. My guess wherever the wire runs in an area subject to something coming into contact with it, like under the dinette seat, etc.., or where it maight have been damaged at a turn or fastener, would be the culprit. If you can't visibly trace the wiring, I'd try going fom device to device with a continuity tester until the bad section was located. Just replacing the bad section rather than fooling with it is sometimes faster and easier. On another note, I had a similar problem with the 120 volt outlets. The GFCI outlet had activated and turned off power to the devices on the same circuit. In my rig, there are two circuits, one serving each side of the rig, each with the GFCI recepticle first in line to protect each circuit. the solution it to trip and reset all your GFCI outlets, and the power will probably restore.
  11. My sticker is on the bottom of the driver's door. I also have a component sticker on the back wall of the cabinet over the range hood that gives the model information for all components...AC, heater, water heater, etc..
  12. Aside from the fuses at the electrical panel area, I have one inline 12 volt fuse where the battery box wire comes into the rig. It's under the dinette seat in my rig (which has a rear dinette). It drove me crazy for a while too until I found it.
  13. Watts = voltage x amps. Add up the amperage of the desired appliances to be operated togather at any time and multiply by 120 (volts) to get the wattage. New appliance lables usually will give you the wattage. For instance, a 600 watt microwave + a 1200 watt hair dryer = 1800 watts total / 120 volts = 15 amps, the full capacity of a 14 gauge wire circuit. What causes problems are hair dryers, curling irons, and electric cooking appliances like fry pans, etc., which all draw a lot of current. Inverters are good for low amperage uses like electronics which consume very litttle current, but it's easy to overload them.
  14. I run 45 psi in the rear duals and 35 psi in the front tires, and it drives like a dream. When I had it in for state inspection, the mechanic did me a "favor" and reduced the rear tire pressures to the stated 32 psi, and the vehicle was all over the road in the wind and when buffeted by passing trucks. 45 psi is well below the maximum recommended by the manufacturer, and plenty to handle the load.
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