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About Otolith

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  1. Yeah that’s a good point... under the dash might be the happy medium
  2. Thanks Derek you are a wealth of info. Looks like I don’t have indicators. Will have to do it the old fashioned way Any advice on where to put an inverter? My house battery is in the engine bay. I'm thinking about putting the inverter in the engine bay with a remote switch and an extension for an outlet. Thoughts?
  3. Thanks all. 4 leaks later and it works as it should. Maybe a stupid question... How do you know the Grey and black water tanks levels?
  4. Do these have different timing than non-rv 20r motors? Mine just has an 8, then it has an indented mark next to a raised mark but both of these are offset (to the left) of the 8 instead of directly underneath it. The vehicle is good under power but has a slight miss at idle and a tiny bit of wavering at idle. I went through the steps to set the low and high idles. Also, the compression was something like 160, 135, 155, 125 (I don't have them with me) Then wet compression was something like 160 150 155 145. I believe the car sat for a bit. Possible buildup issues?
  5. Thanks for that. After I fixed that one, I noticed the city water valve was leaking. Another thing to replace On another note, anyone have good solutions for relocating the propane tank? I have a diamond plate truck tool box I'd like to put on the back of the vehicle. But this blocks the propane access. Options are 1. Relocating propane in rv 2. Swing out cargo box 3. Relocate propane to cargo box? A bit sketchy back there. The access for mine is currently above the rear bumper.
  6. I was just reading up on that... Sounds like the Sharkbite fittings may be best option for now. Cheers
  7. Still learning the ins and outs of this old thing. Looks like some of the systems were replaced and are a bit jerry-rigged. Anyways, I have a water line leak underneath the furnace right where it connects to the bleed valve. I can't find much information on these old lines. What does it take to redo this connection? I'm considering switching the system something like PEX. Seems easy enough besides the really tight areas. Any advice from those who have done this?
  8. Yes thankfully the axle was swapped to 6 lug including receipts. Just to derail this post even more: Anyone swap their L43 for the L52? I’d be curious if the swap difficulty as well as improvements in drivability
  9. That’s it! Actually on the inside of the passenger fender on mine. 1980 20r L43. Thanks Fred
  10. All of the registrations show the 5 digit vin. The chassis has a manufacture plate that is stamped “2/80” but I can’t find a vin in the typical spots. Not sure if this means 2 of 80 or 2nd in ‘80. It has the taller curved front windows that seem like they ended around 1980/1981.
  11. Yeah the licencing department people were confused too. But it came up in their system correctly. I also have a stack of records for the vehicle including previous registrations. Strange huh?
  12. Actually the vin is just 5 digits. All numbers. It is a 1981 per the vin.
  13. Ah that makes a lot of sense thanks
  14. Thanks for the help everyone. I cut the AC belt and replaced the serp and it’s running well. Everything inside is working great (besides the fridge only working when the truck is running). It’s a bit odd. When I go to the auto stores, they say that the 20r wasn’t in the 1981 trucks. The valve cover says 20r. It could either be: Stock 20r? 22r head? Swapped for 20r? Does anyone know how to tell if the block is a 20r or 22r?
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