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GothicSunrader

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Everything posted by GothicSunrader

  1. LindaS: Thx for the help. That is good input regarding oil cap and levels. Always wise to check the easy stuff first. I think I’m good here unless for some reason the recommended capacities I’m operating under are wrong. That’d be a hoot if that were the case, but a cheap (my kind of ) fix. I recall it being 4.2 or 4.5 qts w oil filter. I don’t remember now but always just google it when needed. Dipstick on this rig is only marginally helpful.
  2. Thx, Wanderlustking. That sure is a great, no BS answer. I like your style. (I suffer from a bit of wander lust me self). Regarding the engine flush. I’m referring to the product you put in the oil, run the engine for 5-10 minutes. Then dump the oil. Supposed to clean passages and improve flow and “maybe” reduce blow-by. Is that what you are referring to? This doesn’t require equipment. Some have advised it can take more than one time to make a difference. After the $5k of rebuild and new clutch two years ago, the engine is running great. I’m very happy with it. So my blow-by issues are not resulting in it running poorly. (BTW this last expenses is why I just don’t feel I can sink yet more into the project). No pinging or detonation. The PCV was changed and the new one made noise when shaking. But so did the one I replaced. So how to test if the PCV is working? Any ideas here greatly appreciated. I’m reluctant to just put in another, unless you’d give me good arguments why it’s a good idea. I’ll do the block test you recommend. It’d actually give me a lot of peace of mind to see it turn out good since I recently dropped $5k on it. That’s what I’m hoping at least. Then ignoring it might seem more prudent (which is actually my inclination here). I do check the air filter housing after each 300 mile gas up and dab the 1 or 2 tablespoons of oil that has accumulated. I change the air filter frequently too.
  3. Thx all for the input. My fear is that it is a harbinger for a major repair and I just don’t feel I can drop another $4k on a repair. So I’m wanting to somehow fix it easily or limp along until it bites the dust, which could be years in a best case scenario. I’m thinking another engine oil flush followed by even heavier oil and some Lucas too. Then maybe install a catch can so the blow-by at least doesn’t go to air filter housing.
  4. The replaced pcv valve was just what it said that engine took on Amazon or parts geek, can’t remember. It was cheap though. 6 bucks. The one I replaced seemed like it was functioning. Made a sound when I shook it, just like the new replacement. But I changed it anyway, just to be sure. What do you think about putting a catch can in there so at least the blow-by oil doesn’t go to the air filter housing?
  5. So I’ve done the following with no improvement 1) changed PCV 2) engine oil flush and change with heavier weight oil What to try next?
  6. Epilogue: I finally fixed this problem and I thought I would post the results. 1) use Ivory bar soap to stop leak temporarily 2) Sand area vigorously 3) Apply JB weld “SuperWeld” very thin layer. Let it cure overnight. 4) Apply heathy portion of JB Weld SteelStick on top of that, over micro crack. Really work and press it in. Cure overnight again. The above has held up where all other attempts failed after first rough road. Kind of expect it to fail eventually, but so far looks very solid. Might just roll this way forever and forget about getting a new gas tank.
  7. I’m getting blowback oil in my air filter. About a tablespoon after 300 miles of driving. I’ve recently changed my pcv valve. Still does it. 1984 Nissan Sunrader (720 pickup chasis). 90,000 miles with recently rebuilt top end after head gasket blowing. Ideas? Just live with it?
  8. 1984 Nissan Sunrader, 90,000 miles, cranks but fuel pump is not receiving 12v. Fuse is good and has 12v on it, both sides. Assuming it is the relay under the passenger dash area to right of glove box. I applied 12v externally to fuel pump to prove it works and the rig will start up when I do this. The tricky thing is the problem goes away for spells. Then one fine day the rig just won’t start, again. Right now if I turn key to On but not crank, I hear a click in the fuel pump relay. So that seems like it is working, but then again the RV starts now too, so that’s not surprising. Below is a pin out of the relay. 6 wires come into it. Would someone explain how this thing works? Why 6 wires? Can they go intermittently bad? I’m concerned if I just change the relay out I will be changing out a perfectly good part and the problem actually resides in a faulty wire somewhere. Any suggestions on how to proceed.
  9. Thank you all for the help. I’m in somewhat of a quandary. I’ve tried everything to fix the damn leaks to no success. Haven’t tried lining it yet as suggested. One shop ”fixed” it to the tune of $900 and it started leaking again two weeks later. I still need to settle that account but that’s a different state. Would just like to get a new tank but I do realize the 29 gallon tank is somewhat of a unicorn. Argh!
  10. Linda: S. hi again. My 29 gallon gas tank problems have come to a head snd I’m asking the shop to put in a new tank. I have a 84 Nissan Sunrader. Would you confirm that this link you mentioned will fit on my rig. The shop is staying they can find no options. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-fuel-tank-assy~17202-11g00.html
  11. Linda S. so I've still got the leak and the gas tank you recommended is out of stock. Any idea where I can find a tank to replace my, what seems to be, 29 gal. tank in 1984 Nissan Sunrader? I'm over trying to patch it with products. Doesn't last/work. Thx!
  12. Btw, one of the two trouble area looks like this fixed. I did the repair with the tank full. I found if I rubbed ivory soap on the micro crack it would stop leaking even after vigorously sanding the area. So I was able to apply the "Seal All" to a dry surface. I thought I try "Seal All" first then if it leaks down the road try JB weld next.
  13. Yea, it's definitely a low spot. Clearance is not her strong suit. Like 5 3/4". Might ultimately be why I have micro cracks. One too many dings?
  14. My tank dimensions are 38" L x 13. 5" W x 14" H Online volume calculator gives 31 gallons as capacity. But tank is not a true rectangle so definitely less than that. But I could see it being the 29 gallon one, maybe?
  15. Thank you Linda. That is such a find! I recently sealed it as suggested. Seems good to far, but expect it to be temporary. If it starts leaking again soon I'll go the new tank route. Question about the new tank you found. So I have 1984 Nissan Sunrader on a 720 2.4L pickup. And new tank description says it fits, but will it fit the Sunrader on that pickup? How can I be sure? My present tank seems more rectangular and "right angle-y". The new one seems a tad different, will that matter? Will it be a simple plug 'n play?
  16. So, the leaks are on the bottom of the tank. Micro cracks. No gaping wound. Just immediately gets humid after wiping, so you can see it's point of origin. But not see the micro crack. For a leak of this nature does the fiberglass cloth serve a purpose? If so what purpose is it serving?
  17. No, it seriously regains its normal power if I just put a tad of pressure on the clutch. I'm talking 1/4" depression that's it. Not half way or anything like that. And the power difference is palpable. Say you are in third gear, If I don't do it, I get zero pop when I hit the accelerator, nothing, just bogs down. No power. When I do it, I now have the pop I know the rig has in third gear (OK, not pop, only 4 gerbils, but you know what I mean). It'll drive normally. If I do it. It is not simply reving higher (I have a aftermarket tach). I'd recognize that.
  18. 1984, Nissan Sunrader in 720 2.4L. New clutch installed by reputable shop 800 miles ago. I am now noticing a loss of power in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gear almost like it is bogging down or driving on only a couple cylinders. Quite by chance I noticed that the problem goes away if I depress the clutch ever so slightly. Power returns. I now have to drive with my foot sitting on the clutch, with just a bit of weight on it. Lift foot, bogs down. Whatever it is, seems like it should be obvious, but the web is not full of answers on this one, tho it is hard to ask correctly to get good hits. Any ideas anyone?
  19. I really loved the soap reply. I was like yhgtbsm! That led me down some interweb rat holes where I learned more about my dilemma. Below are three links to lively conversations and a video (could that be you jjrbus?). Summary: 1) soap works in a pinch, is temporary, will work with gas spilling out. 2). Seal All and JB weld are better fixes but again don't expect it to be forever. 3) bubble gum mixed with gas makes napalm https://www.s10forum.com/threads/has-anyone-ever-used-ivory-soap-to-stop-a-tank-leak.480326/ https://www.ttora.com/threads/ivory-soap-on-a-gas-tank.75551/
  20. And could you do it with the tank full? So that area would be a humid with gas/fume, but not really wet. Just asking cuz emptying gas tank is something I am not looking forward to doing.
  21. So fiberglass cloth with fiberglass epoxy will bond and seal against the sanded metal (iron) of the industrial-looking gas tank? Just want to makes sure I'm on the same page (sometimes I'm reading a completely different book)
  22. I've got 2 micro cracks on our 1984 Nissan Sunrader's 21 gal. steel (iron?) gas tank. Leaks super slow. No drips. But always damp. Been living with it but needs repair. 1) is that type of thing fixable? 2) does anyone have any experience fixing such things? Might you share some learning? 3) If a new gas tank is the only solution where does one get one?
  23. Thanks to all who have chimed in. It's nice knowing you are on my side. MOALASKA, you are spot on. Our rig had 90k on it when she blew. Present update is the mechanic is gonna try to fix the top end and not replace the motor. He is also recommending a new clutch cuz of vibrations he feels. Clutch wasn't on my radar, but at this point I'm really desperate to get our home back, so I said go ahead and do that too. Quote is $3,500. Prly high, but one finds oneself between a rock and a hard place and 600 miles from home.
  24. Thanks for the input Derek. Unfortunately I'm not knowledgeable enough to do the work myself. I've got to decide if fixing it makes sense. I love the RV and would like to save it. The mechanic is leading me toward the new engine route, not the fix it route (though it sure would be nice to just repair whatever broke, though I don't even know if that is possible).
  25. So our luck finally went south. My 1984 Nissan Sunrader that we are wintering in blew its engine (massive white smoke, rapid drain of radiator fluid). Other than that, it is such a sweet RV and I'd put a lot of TLC into her (springs, tires, interior upgrades). Now what? It has the Z24 2.4L gas engine. Anyone been thru similar and can talk me thru my options? And hopefully make me feel like there actually could be light at the end of the tunnel. Or at least a different way of looking at things. I'm in Tucson, 600 miles from my home in CO. RV is at mechanic's now.
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