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GothicSunrader

Toyota Advanced Member
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About GothicSunrader

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1984 Sunrader
  • Location
    Colorado

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Sunradering

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  1. LindaS: Thx for the help. That is good input regarding oil cap and levels. Always wise to check the easy stuff first. I think I’m good here unless for some reason the recommended capacities I’m operating under are wrong. That’d be a hoot if that were the case, but a cheap (my kind of ) fix. I recall it being 4.2 or 4.5 qts w oil filter. I don’t remember now but always just google it when needed. Dipstick on this rig is only marginally helpful.
  2. Thx, Wanderlustking. That sure is a great, no BS answer. I like your style. (I suffer from a bit of wander lust me self). Regarding the engine flush. I’m referring to the product you put in the oil, run the engine for 5-10 minutes. Then dump the oil. Supposed to clean passages and improve flow and “maybe” reduce blow-by. Is that what you are referring to? This doesn’t require equipment. Some have advised it can take more than one time to make a difference. After the $5k of rebuild and new clutch two years ago, the engine is running great. I’m very happy with it. So my blow-by issues are not resulting in it running poorly. (BTW this last expenses is why I just don’t feel I can sink yet more into the project). No pinging or detonation. The PCV was changed and the new one made noise when shaking. But so did the one I replaced. So how to test if the PCV is working? Any ideas here greatly appreciated. I’m reluctant to just put in another, unless you’d give me good arguments why it’s a good idea. I’ll do the block test you recommend. It’d actually give me a lot of peace of mind to see it turn out good since I recently dropped $5k on it. That’s what I’m hoping at least. Then ignoring it might seem more prudent (which is actually my inclination here). I do check the air filter housing after each 300 mile gas up and dab the 1 or 2 tablespoons of oil that has accumulated. I change the air filter frequently too.
  3. Thx all for the input. My fear is that it is a harbinger for a major repair and I just don’t feel I can drop another $4k on a repair. So I’m wanting to somehow fix it easily or limp along until it bites the dust, which could be years in a best case scenario. I’m thinking another engine oil flush followed by even heavier oil and some Lucas too. Then maybe install a catch can so the blow-by at least doesn’t go to air filter housing.
  4. The replaced pcv valve was just what it said that engine took on Amazon or parts geek, can’t remember. It was cheap though. 6 bucks. The one I replaced seemed like it was functioning. Made a sound when I shook it, just like the new replacement. But I changed it anyway, just to be sure. What do you think about putting a catch can in there so at least the blow-by oil doesn’t go to the air filter housing?
  5. So I’ve done the following with no improvement 1) changed PCV 2) engine oil flush and change with heavier weight oil What to try next?
  6. Epilogue: I finally fixed this problem and I thought I would post the results. 1) use Ivory bar soap to stop leak temporarily 2) Sand area vigorously 3) Apply JB weld “SuperWeld” very thin layer. Let it cure overnight. 4) Apply heathy portion of JB Weld SteelStick on top of that, over micro crack. Really work and press it in. Cure overnight again. The above has held up where all other attempts failed after first rough road. Kind of expect it to fail eventually, but so far looks very solid. Might just roll this way forever and forget about getting a new gas tank.
  7. I’m getting blowback oil in my air filter. About a tablespoon after 300 miles of driving. I’ve recently changed my pcv valve. Still does it. 1984 Nissan Sunrader (720 pickup chasis). 90,000 miles with recently rebuilt top end after head gasket blowing. Ideas? Just live with it?
  8. 1984 Nissan Sunrader, 90,000 miles, cranks but fuel pump is not receiving 12v. Fuse is good and has 12v on it, both sides. Assuming it is the relay under the passenger dash area to right of glove box. I applied 12v externally to fuel pump to prove it works and the rig will start up when I do this. The tricky thing is the problem goes away for spells. Then one fine day the rig just won’t start, again. Right now if I turn key to On but not crank, I hear a click in the fuel pump relay. So that seems like it is working, but then again the RV starts now too, so that’s not surprising. Below is a pin out of the relay. 6 wires come into it. Would someone explain how this thing works? Why 6 wires? Can they go intermittently bad? I’m concerned if I just change the relay out I will be changing out a perfectly good part and the problem actually resides in a faulty wire somewhere. Any suggestions on how to proceed.
  9. Thank you all for the help. I’m in somewhat of a quandary. I’ve tried everything to fix the damn leaks to no success. Haven’t tried lining it yet as suggested. One shop ”fixed” it to the tune of $900 and it started leaking again two weeks later. I still need to settle that account but that’s a different state. Would just like to get a new tank but I do realize the 29 gallon tank is somewhat of a unicorn. Argh!
  10. Linda: S. hi again. My 29 gallon gas tank problems have come to a head snd I’m asking the shop to put in a new tank. I have a 84 Nissan Sunrader. Would you confirm that this link you mentioned will fit on my rig. The shop is staying they can find no options. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-fuel-tank-assy~17202-11g00.html
  11. Linda S. so I've still got the leak and the gas tank you recommended is out of stock. Any idea where I can find a tank to replace my, what seems to be, 29 gal. tank in 1984 Nissan Sunrader? I'm over trying to patch it with products. Doesn't last/work. Thx!
  12. Btw, one of the two trouble area looks like this fixed. I did the repair with the tank full. I found if I rubbed ivory soap on the micro crack it would stop leaking even after vigorously sanding the area. So I was able to apply the "Seal All" to a dry surface. I thought I try "Seal All" first then if it leaks down the road try JB weld next.
  13. Yea, it's definitely a low spot. Clearance is not her strong suit. Like 5 3/4". Might ultimately be why I have micro cracks. One too many dings?
  14. My tank dimensions are 38" L x 13. 5" W x 14" H Online volume calculator gives 31 gallons as capacity. But tank is not a true rectangle so definitely less than that. But I could see it being the 29 gallon one, maybe?
  15. Thank you Linda. That is such a find! I recently sealed it as suggested. Seems good to far, but expect it to be temporary. If it starts leaking again soon I'll go the new tank route. Question about the new tank you found. So I have 1984 Nissan Sunrader on a 720 2.4L pickup. And new tank description says it fits, but will it fit the Sunrader on that pickup? How can I be sure? My present tank seems more rectangular and "right angle-y". The new one seems a tad different, will that matter? Will it be a simple plug 'n play?
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