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About JaySam

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1985 Toyota Sunrader
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  1. Damn Rick that's looking really really good! I love the cedar ceiling, how thick is the planking for that? I'd love to see some more pics of the interior, looks like you've made some good progress. Glad to hear that your rig checked out mechanically, that's always a sigh of relief. I'm interested in the safe your building as well, would you share some pics of that as you build it? I'm building mine out to live in actually and this seems like a great idea. Here's a pic of the piece I'm trying to replace, I think it's the window glazing?
  2. Thanks Rick. I'm looking for the outer gasket on the window, I think it's the vinyl glazing piece? I figured out what it's called so I think finding it on amazon should be easy from there. I searched the forums but didn't find anything specific to the outer glaze, just mostly links to the 2 piece locking gasket for the curved windows up front. Maybe my search skills just aren't up to par. Did you build new cabinet designs or did you rebuild the original cabinets? I'm thinking of using the old cabinets as templates and rebuilding what was already there What size wire are you going to wire your coach with? I pulled the braces and the ceiling is holding up nicely. Can finally start working on other projects
  3. Ok I've managed to make some progress with the time off which has been nice. I've got the beams glassed in over the bed and in place curing now. A few things I've learned from the first round to the second round of fiberglassing: I cut bevel edges on the headers and sanded them down so the glass wouldn't have to make 90 degree turns and it was much easier to lay down. I soaked the upper end of the sheet of glass in the resin before I put it up which helped with wet-out and holding in place while I worked from the top down. Other than improving my skills by getting more experience these two things made glassing in the front header beams much easier and cleaner than my first round of glass. I also glassed in a patch under the middle of the 3 beams in the coach area for re-enforcement. I built frames for all the windows and got them primed as well. I pulled all the screws around the trim, at least the ones that would come out, and have replacements for them to be installed. As for the rusty ones I can't get out I'm thinking of a dab of silicone over the head and move on. Next I need to build vertical support beams to go behind the wheel wells which I'll glass to the sidewall. Then it's pull all the windows and re-seal/re-install. Does anyone know what kind of gasket goes on the outside of the window? Most of mine are in pretty bad shape
  4. Thanks, its nice having others go through the same process to bounce ideas off and compare notes and whatnot. Rick (canadasunrader) has also gutted his and is rebuilding it very nicely as well, he has a few threads on various different aspects of his build going that have been helpful. Next step is to build the beams and headers for the bed area and get it glassed in as well. Vertical supports in the coach, close in some appliance holes and I might be able to start working on the interior. What did you use to frame the windows in? 3/4" plywood? How did glassing in the battery hole go? What kind of mat are you using to fill in holes?
  5. Ok I've got everything up in place and it seems to be holding well. There's still a few more spots I want to glass over the header but overall everything went well and seems to be working great. I added 3x6 steel plates to the end of the rafter beams to prevent to much pressure into the sidewall and JB welded them together. Then I put epoxy on the shell and the back side of the header and slide that into place and wedged it in. I glassed over the header to the shell at the back beam and the front beam, and I plan on doing the middle beam and ends when I get to glassing in the rafters over the cab area. I used 2 heaters running most of the day and kept the temps at 80 or above for 10 hours so I feel pretty good about the cure. I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out, and won't be so concerned moving forward about all of this. Thanks again to everyone for the advice and help with everything, it's been an awesome resource and I appreciate the help.
  6. Ok well I've decided to go with Total Boat epoxy for the headers and face plates that will attach to the sidewall. I'll probably glass over as well down the road with resin but for now am going to go with just epoxy. I need to build square face plates for the beams as they're pushing in to the sides too much, once a snow load is on top it'll be much worse. So I'm going to attempt to build face plates and get everything epoxied in this weekend as the weather window looks decent right now. Hopefully by next week I'll actually have something accomplished on this roof and can maybe start moving on with life.
  7. Thanks Rick, it only took two months! ha! what kind of glue did you use? I agree drilling more holes in the shell isn't ideal. I'm thinking of maybe going the epoxy/fiberglass route but temps need to be right for it all to cure and I'm not sure when I'll get a weather window. Part of the idea of bolts is it allows me to move forward without relying on good temps to finish the roof. I might just liquid nails it to the wall and then fiberglass over with resin instead of epoxy to save some time and money. Once again to many options and in the end I'm probably over thinking it. what size beam did you use for the vertical studs?
  8. Sounds like your moving right along Rick, I'm envious! I've gotten bogged down and stuck on this ceiling adventure, seems like I just can't get anything done from the time I get home friday night until leaving again monday morning. I finally got some header beams built and propped into place, although slow going it's coming along quite nicely and I'm pretty happy with the result so far. As of now I can walk under the rafters in my shoes with about 1/2" left of headroom so all the work is going to pay off hopefully. Now I need to get all the fiberglass shit going. I am also going to bolt the headers to the wall from the outside for added peace of mind, having never done fiberglass before I'm hesitant to rely on it for structural stability of the ceiling for the rest of the life of the camper. Plus it's march and temps here will be tricky, I'm concerned I might not get a good cure so shoring it up with some bolts will help me sleep easy. What was the reason behind steel vertical beams instead of wood? I'll be moving to that stage next (if the ceiling ever gets done) and was thinking of just using wood but I'd love to hear your thoughts on it. Hopefully once I get through this ceiling adventure things will begin to pick up and move a bit quicker, at this rate I'll be done with it just in time for retirement!
  9. Hey Rick, Unfortunately I have not gotten to glassing the beams in yet, I haven't even built the header beam for the sides yet. I'm hoping to build the headers and beams for the coach as well as the bed area this weekend, if I can accomplish that I think I'll actually be ready for glass the following weekend. If the temps are good enough. I still need to decide if I want to glass over the vents or if I'll reuse them for appliances down the road. When you glassed in your vent what kind of backing material did you use? It's been slow going for me the past few weeks, a little frustrating but just gotta keep fighting. That's looking really good! I was wondering how you were going to add those beams in. The pics from your other thread look great too, your really making your way along and getting some progress done. How are you going to construct your walls? Are you going to use rigid foam or are you still looking to use wool throughout? How did you go about bending the beams? My method produced a bit of a rough result, I'd like to try to smooth the curve out a touch but am debating on how much it'll really change and if it's worth all the extra work. At this point I'm feeling like i just need to get things done and move on with the build, there's still a long ways to go. Everything still the same as it was a few weeks ago...
  10. No problem. I didn't discover my floor issues until I pulled out all the water tanks and the propane tanks and then found this waiting for me underneath. I pulled all that wood up with my fingers it was so rotten and moldy. The floor had sunk about 1" over the frame as well, you might be able to tell if that's the case by looking underneath the vehicle. You can see in the second pic how much it sunk, the bottom of the plywood should be flush with the fiberglass. Sunrader didn't build a support structure for the 'wings' of the body over the rear axle, then they decided to load them up with all the water tanks, propane tanks and batteries for the coach. I think this also contributes to the roof problems.
  11. I don't have any advice on whether or not you should buy it, but I recently bought a 85 sunrader with some similar issues showing but overall seemed in good shape and solid. After pulling up some cabinets I found a rotten floor that needed replaced and am working on installing rafters in the roof to prop it back up. Basically what I thought would be a fixer-upper has turned into an entire gut a rebuild of the rig, along with adding structural supports to both the floor and roof to prop them up. Not that there's anything wrong with that, it's actually kinda fun in some ways, but you might want to consider how much work you really wanna do and give a really close inspection of the vehicle. The floors were not supported well and tend to sag, as well as the common roof sagging issue. Several other members on here are going through a similar experience with a sunrader as well. Here's the thread of my rebuild if your interested in what I've had to do so far. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11856-sunrader-floor-repair-gut-and-rebuild/ And here's Rick's thread on his rebuild and some of my floor experience as well. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11826-help-with-rotten-floor-sunrader/ Dunno if this helps at all but might give you an idea on what your getting into potentially.
  12. WME: Are you thinking something like herculiner ? Or do you have a suggestion for a product? Rick: Good to know, I think i'll leave the windows as is and be thankful there's actually one thing i don't need to fix or rebuild on this thing.
  13. Hey Rick, good to know about the rock wool. Still might use that as an option since it's readily available, decently priced and seems to have similar properties to something like thinsualte. Anyway like I said I still have some work to do before I get there. Have you considered a sound deadening material for the coach at all? Something like rattle trap or noico? Wondering if those are worth the time and money or if just stuffing insulation over the wheel wells is enough How hard were the front plexi windows to do? Mine seem to be holding up fine but I'm wondering if it's worth the effort to pull and replace the gasket and seal for peace of mind or if it's not worth the trouble if they aren't currently leaking...
  14. Looks like my best option for the ceiling is rigid foam board, it gets a R 4 value which is actually a little higher than even the 3m Thinsulate. Advantage of thinsulate is the acoustic properties as well, so I may go with that in the ceiling and do foam board on the sides where I can go a little thicker. Rick, are you going to put in any sound deadening material in the cab or the coach area? I'm thinking of adding some maybe on the wheel wells and in select spots but am not sure as I've never used those kind of products before. Of course I'll line the cab with it but am wondering about the coach area, what are your thoughts there? Since my insulation requirements are rather thin I think I'll also opt for a little bit bigger heater than I need to make sure to keep it toasty.
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