akwcanoe

I visited a CAT scale near us and was a bit shocked. Might go again, based on your collective experience. Of course, I could be mis-remembering. The paperwork is in the RV which is currently in winter storage until March. I would think that the 1ton conversion only added a couple of hundred pounds at most.

Idahodoug. We'll be rollin' through around the middle of June. Route is still TBD, as are dates based on weather, scenery, craft beers, etc. Will check out your thread. I am trying to reduce weight on my renos while upgrading/repairing. The full 1 ton conversion definately added weight. With half tanks and packed for a short trip, we are at 5800 on a 18ft Sunrader. Add the cargo rack, extra water and fuel and we're likely over 6000.

Idahodoug. We're headed west to Denver and then into Idaho through to Portland and on to the Pacific coast. In Idaho, probably Hwy 20 or 26, after a quick stop in Wyoming at Jackson and Yellowstone.

Again, thanks for the responses and advise. Overall, I am not looking for more power. I AM looking to reduce my RPMs at highway speeds. Current set up has lots of pep (for a toyhome:) and handles hills well. I've had it in 13 percent grades out west and 3rd gear was perfect on the Skyline Drive in the east. However, at 65 mph its RPMS are high and my mileage is barely into double digits. And, just in normal driving, it feels like it wants fifth. Not really liking to go faster. Just easier. Even though it's 40 years old, the compression is still 180 psi in 3 cylinders and 177 in the fourth so it's still strong. We're set for another 6000+ mile trip this June. Would be nice to cruise along in fifth - if only downwind or down hill.

Thanks everyone. Great suggestions and links. I will continue the hunt.

Hi folks. Spent some time scrolling through various threads but life is short. So, I will jump the line and ask my question. I have a 1983 shorty Sunrader with 22r and a 4spd manual. The rest axle is out of an 87 and has a 4:88 rear end. I would like to swop in a 5spd. What are the options beyond the L52? What years of 4Runners would have comparable transmissions? The more options I have (years/vehicles) the more likely I can find one locally.

Hi folks. Spent some time scrolling through this threat but life is short. So, I will jump the line and ask my question. I have a 1983 shorty Sunrader with 22r and a 4spd manual. The rest axle is out of an 87 and has a 4:88 rear end. I would like to swop in a 5spd. What are the options beyond the L52? What years of 4Runners would have comparable transmissions? The more options I have (years/vehicles) the more likely I can find one locally.

IdahoDoug Thanks again. I will look for the fiberboard.

I doubt anything up there is structural. Mine has a cloth covering with foam backing that goes the whole length of the interior ceiling. It appears to be glued on. Provides a surprising amount of insulation.

Idahodoug Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. It's great to get the benefit of other's experience. I can now move forward with more confidence. I expect to leak issues with some of the screws from the trim strip. Both side windows are currently NOT leaking so I am being careful not to mess that up.

Hi This an old post, but if anyone is still listening, my question is: how structural are these side panels? Do they add strength or rigidity to the cabover? Can I replace them with minimal framing and insulation? Thanks.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that rig is a Sunrader.

Update. The three row 4Runner radiator went in fine but the lower hose and heater core hose needed some "customizing" to work. This was because my Indiana Sunrader has the coach battery in the engine compartment on the driver side. This changes the location of the rad fluid reservoir and windshield fluid reservoir. These get in the way. Other than that it was fine.

My question: Is the plywood in a Sunrader cabover walls structural? Does it provide stiffening or some other function? It's time to replace it. The bottom half of the driver's side is rotted out. Passenger side is still good but I may do both anyway. Yes, the original shag carpet is coming out as well I imagine that I will need to at least frame around the windows. I was hoping to add some insulation and wondered how much additional framing was recommended.

Update on this radiator swap. I just got my Sunrader out of storage and began checking the clearance on the stock rad. I placed a 1 inch block on top of the current rad cap and tried closing the hood. It would close but not fully lock. Safety latch engages but not the lower full 'click'. I loosened and raised the hood latch mechanism. Not much give really - perhaps a 1/16" at most. Now it fully closes - just. So.. I think it worth a try. I suspect there is more that can be done to increase the clearance on assembly. Coincidentally the hood actually fits the fenders better. It has always sat a bit below both fenders when fully latched. I suspect my Sunrader has had a colourful history. I never ask. She never says.