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AmyDC

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by AmyDC

  1. Hey all, Due to a recent death in my close family and spending the most of last year nursing another close family member back to health, I've lost the will to continue renovating my 1985 Sunrader. I've gutted it and started putting everything back together again, but it is 100% still a work-in-progress project. Not able to be taken out for a trip at this time. I'm putting out feelers to see if anyone is interested. I've got a load of supplies and replacement parts to go with it. I'm at work so I don't have pics to post at the moment and I'm located in Washington, DC btw. Open to offers - I just don't want to look at it anymore. Would rather someone else enjoy it, than having it sit doing nothing. Thanks, Amy
  2. Hi Ernie! I have an 86 Sunrader as well. I went to change out my pads and rotors a few weeks ago and somehow ordered the wrong parts as well. After some additional research, I ordered the following off Rock Auto and they fit perfectly (these are for the front only, not the rear btw). Pads - Part # CE 102.03030 Rotors - Part # CE 121.44035 Can't guarantee these will work with your Toy, but they worked for mine. Good luck! Amy
  3. Holy.... My cheeks tightened and lifted off my seat just reading this! Glad you're okay and didn't crash!!
  4. Hi All, I was just browsing Craigslist and saw this listing for a 1983 Toyota Dolphin for sale. I don't know anything about it or the owner, however I thought I'd post it here for anyone who might be interested. https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/rvs/d/fairfax-1983-toyota-dolphin/6985449081.html
  5. Appreciate the suggestions, Linda! I'll try the screwdriver method this weekend and if it doesn't work, I'll give the RV place idea a go. Thanks!! 😃
  6. Appreciate the advice, Maineah! I took a look this morning and couldn't find any hand cranks anywhere in the rig. Nor do I see anywhere on the awning where a hand crank would attach... There are 2 little circular tubes (one on each end), but they're really really teeny - like the size of a pinky nail. I took some close up pics (see attached) this morning of the awning and see it says it is an A&E Systems awning - which I researched - and it seems to be a Dometic awning? Perhaps they were bought out by Dometic? No idea. Anywho, I'm still stumped here on how to operate. Regardless, I'll need to take the awning down (hopefully only temporarily), as I noticed some issues with the screws causing fiberglass stress cracks as well as I found past water intrusion from a few of the screws on the inside of the rig. Ideally, I'd like to identify this model of awning so I can locate a proper operations manual for it. Does anyone have this type of awning?
  7. Hi All! So my Sunrader came with an awning, however I can't for the life of me figure out how it works.... Can anyone help me/explain how in the heck it operates? I'm at a loss. Thanks!
  8. Here’s some pics I grabbed this morning. Pardon the mess, I’m smack dab in the middle of demo. As you can see, I also have the fuel hose in the same spot - totally bizarre. I’m not sure why it’s like this, but if possible, I want to get it out of the camper and put under the camper. I didn’t try moving the captains chair over yet, but I’ll give it a go later. Has anyone ever come across something like this before? Any ideas on what to do about it?
  9. hahah I think you did I think my dinette area did have bench seats - but the previous owner had already removed them, so I can't be 100% positive. But I will say that I did have a rather large dinette table that I removed 2 weeks ago. So that makes me think it had the bench seats. That table was big and heavy. Currently, though I have a captains chair (what I think you're calling a lounge chair?) in the nook to the right of the kitchen. My Sunrader didn't come with a sofa on the driver's side. Instead, it had an additional large closet - then the kitchen - then a captains chair - then the bunk. I could move the captains chair in the location where one of the old bench seats was and take a pic for you, if you want? But I don't have the table anymore to give you a full idea of the space unfortunately.
  10. @jetalkington make sure to wear gloves when applying the 40 volume developer... it can burn ya if exposed to skin too long
  11. Looks like yours. No door on mine - though mine does look a bit newer. I’m thinking a previous owner replaced it at one time.... perhaps did a repair or modification because I noticed there is a leak when I filled up at gas stations bringing it home. I had to fill up real slowly and I saw some fuel drip while filling up - perhaps a hose or elbow or something isn’t angled right? I don’t know. Haven’t really looked into it yet. On my list of things to do.
  12. I have the same model as you, @jetalkington -- where there is the rear bath, the kitchen on the driver's side, and the fridge on the passenger's side right slightly forward of the entry door - then slightly forward of that is the dinette area. My gas tank fill is almost exactly where yours is - directly behind the passenger door. When I get home today, I'll take a few pics and show you where everything is located on mine. 🙂
  13. AmyDC

    Help

    Hi Linda, I agree completely about the kindness of the owner of this site. I’ve learned so much the short while I’ve been here. As someone who manages websites for a living, I know from experience that it takes a whole lot of time and money to do what he’s been doing! Wish I could take the guy out for dinner or something to show my appreciation!! Regarding the HTTP status of the site, I was just explaining the facts of what it means, not telling anyone what they must or must not do. Personally, I have no problem with interacting on this site even though it’s HTTP. 😊
  14. AmyDC

    Help

    Hi Linda, I see the "Not Secure" warning in my Chrome browser and in my Safari browser (when on my iPhone). In addition, if for example, you're on the Firefox browser you might not see any warning, however if you click on the little "i" to the direct left of the URL, you'll see that it shows the website connection is not secure due to the website not being HTTPS. Also, sometimes in place of showing a warning you might see a browser show a lock icon with a red slash through it. That means the same thing as the Chrome or Safari "Not Secure" warning. As for the member that complained about seeing ads for porn sites, that is a direct reflection on the sites that person has browsed hahahaha. The ads on this website are called "display ads". Majority of the time display ads are used as retargeting campaigns - which basically means that the ads are served to users who have already visited a specific website or been looking up a specific product or topic. So the aim of the ads are to "retarget" the user and encourage the user to return to the website or buy a product related to something they've been looking up. In the case you mentioned, it was most likely porn website ads encouraging that person to come back and visit the porn sites he/she visited in the past. 😂😂😂
  15. AmyDC

    Help

    Hi Fred, I work on websites every day (my 9-5er). Historically, websites have used the HTTP protocol - as this site currently does - "http://toyotamotorhome.org". For the past few years now, most websites have been transitioning over from HTTP to HTTPS. HTTPS provides additional security to the user of the website - i.e., helps protect information sent and received on the website and helps to protect information that could potentially be stolen. On websites that have not made the transition to HTTPS, most browsers now show that "Not Secure" warning. Note that this warning does NOT mean that the website is currently affected by malware, nor does it mean hackers are currently lying in wait ready to steal your information. It just means that there is the possibility as the website is incapable of of providing a secure connection and therefore, it is open to such things happening in the future. There is a super easy and inexpensive fix to this though. The owner of this website could just purchase an SSL certificate (to be renewed every year) and install/enable the HTTPS protocol on the website's server. Then, instead of seeing the "Not Secure" warning, we'll all see a lock icon and the URL will then read "https://toyotamotorhome.org". Easy peasy.
  16. A girl can wish, can't she? I fully understand the benefits of propane, however I don't want it on my rig. In regards to the Bosch water heater I mentioned above, it is not tankless. Also, I plan on having way more than 150w of solar. BTW, I didn't ask about a dorm fridge - I have a dometic 3-way currently - may upgrade to something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX50W-Electric-Powered-Freezer/dp/B072MLT6QW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521424864&sr=1-1&keywords=dometic+cfx-50&linkCode=sl1&tag=ghfridgespreadsheet-20&linkId=69c42d0b330645bd3dc859467d7515ed. I love discussing topics like this because there really is no one way to do things - not to mention there are new inventions and new products coming to the market all the time. We all know that there are always trade offs to decisions, however I don't see anything wrong with trying to look outside the box and trying to shake up the status quo of what's possible with our rigs. Personalizing each rig to each individual owner is what it's all about. That's why we buy in the first place - to fulfill our individual dreams
  17. Gahhh I know it, Derek - that's what all my research has been saying.... but I was hoping some company had finally created this unicorn... When choosing between between electric "batch" water heaters and electric on demand "tankless" water heaters - given the limitations of the power setup - the electric "batch" water heater is a no-brainer (electric instead of gas/propane is important to me). Furthermore, when choosing between "point-of-use" locations and "central" locations - I'm leaning towards the POUs to help reduce the warm-up times -- one POU at the kitchen sink/outdoor shower area and one POU for the bathroom shower (I'm eliminating the bathroom sink). Nothing too large - most likely 2.5 gallons. Finally, I think I'm also going to get a foot pedal at the kitchen sink to have more control over the flow so as to conserve water. I'm looking into the two-pedal valve kind that gives you separate control of hot and cold water.
  18. I'm interested in this topic as well. Ideally, I'd like to replace the current old hot water heater (that doesn't work and is infested with old wasp nests) with an electric tankless hot water heater. I'm planning on getting rid of the propane system altogether on my rig as well as installing a pretty substantial solar setup. I'm still researching this conversion, however I have read good things about the Bosch Electric Mini-Tank Water Heater Tronic 3000 T: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Mini-Tank-Tronic-3000-ES8/dp/B0148O658Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1 ( btw this one isn't tankless though) Am curious if anyone here has done something similar?
  19. Oh dear, that sounds frustrating for you ☹️ I just bought my rig a few weeks ago - so I’m still figuring everything out, but I can say that my drive home from the seller was about 6 1/2 hours - most of it highway - and 50-55 mph was about as fast as I felt the rig felt comfortable going. At one point, I got up to about 65-70 mph 😳 as I was jamming out to music and not paying attention to the speedometer like I should have and the engine definitely let me know me know it wasn’t down for that nonsense lol. I just returned back to going 50-55 and the engine was happy again. Good luck! I’m rooting for you! 😊
  20. @Donnie interesting I hadn't heard of Duraprene gaskets before.... which Duraprene pan gasket have you used on your Toy that you recommend? Do you still have to get a new one every time you change the transmission fluid (like the regular gaskets)? Or do you just keep reusing the same Duraprene gasket every time you change the transmission fluid? The gaskets that RockAuto.com has for sale average around $4 bucks a pop... What kind of price point is the Duraprene?
  21. @Derek up North that made me giggle! The "binocular" bolt and the "redrilled holes that still don't match" bolt are personal faves
  22. Hi All, I have a confession... no matter how hard I try, I can never remember the difference between all the many kinds of screws and bolts (and washer and nut sizes, etc - not to mention trying to convert SAE to metric/and vice versa). I like to think I do until I walk into THAT row at the hardware store and my mind goes blank and I get completely overwhelmed. I'm sure most of you don't have this problem, but on the off chance that someone here does, I thought I'd share an awesome resource I found that makes things a little easier for me. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Default.aspx They have a section on their website where they simplify things down in layman's term - in convenient PDFs. See attached screenshot for an example of what I mean. I don't have any relationship with this company, nothing in it for me - just thought I'd share a good free educational resource that helps me out.
  23. Morning! I was just reading the Haynes Repair Manual - the section about what an Automatic Transmission Fluid Change entails with the Toy and I need your help. Here's what part of the instructions say: 10. Carefully clean the gasket surface of the transmission to remove all traces of the old gasket and sealant. 11. Drain the fluid from the transmission pan, clean it with solvent and dry it with compressed air. 12. Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to the transmission case side of the new gasket. 13. Make sure the gasket surface on the transmission pan is clean, then apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to it and position the new gasket on the pan. Put the pan in place against the transmission, install the bolts and, working around the pan, tighten each bolt a little at a time until the final torque figure is reached. I've never heard of RTV sealant before, nor worked with it before. To be honest, I'm not even sure what it is exactly even though I read on Google it means "room-temperature-vulcanizing".... which does not make it any clearer lol. So I guess my main question is -- What brand do you recommend for this job? I'd hate to pick just any old brand and have an issue with the gasket malfunctioning in some way. Thanks!!
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