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About thewanderlustking

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  1. Crap. Well hey as I edited yesterday, I already put the Flex Seal spray down pretty thick... I didn't go look at it yet tonight, it takes 48hrs to fully set up so I figured I would take a look tomorrow. If it looks like I can fill the void with it, I will give it a shot and realize it is likely not going to last too long. I want to redcoat the whole roof soon, but I need some satisfaction (like being able to drive it somewhere) out of it before I drop lots (or well any more lol) of money on it. I guess for now the saving grace of this ghetto fix (hey the cans specifically say for RV use!!!) is that the AC cover will be covering it up. I will HAVE TO make a close roof inspections part of a six month maintenance check, or pre trip inspection. I will post up tomorrow how it is turning out. Also expect to see an update in 6-12 months when I go take a long term look at it. As for the longer term redcoat the roof plan, I will use that Eternabond. I have heard it mentioned a few times now.
  2. They did flatbead mine out too on a standard tow truck, but it was not a simple thing to pull it on. Ours is a Mini-Cruiser at 20'. The guy had special 2x10 ramps made to get the rear up at a better angle. Even then, it scraped. As for AAA, I LOVE them and have probably ben a member for 15yrs or so myself. Getting the RV towed was the only bad experience I have ever had with them. And it wasn't just the one time. I think we tried getting their help three times to get the beast home. But again my point here being, old RV and it is a REALLY good idea to have RV specific towing ready to go. Obviously, if Blaine decides not to get it, kinda pointless to worry about. I think the experience of owning one of these older Toyota RV's is well worth it. It is a MUCH lower cost point to get into one than a newer "modern" and there is a TON of help here (and elsewhere) to get issues resolved. Oh a benefit to Good Sam? I just got off the phone with a "certified" (whatever that might mean) RV technician to give me some ideas on how to proceed with a roof leak repair I am working on. I am an ASE certified mechanic, so the auto mechanics portion I have well in hand. I just scratch my head with some of the cross over into RV-land points.
  3. Alright, finally attacking my leaky roof... Backstory: Roof leak above the table on right passenger side was traced down last year to coming in on the left side of the ac surround frame, traveling around the AC frame (I guess) under the roof membrane or whatever it is. In my build "comedy" thread, WME suggested replacing the AC gasket. While that is a cheap repair, getting this AC unit out to do it will likely destroy it. It has tar all around the edges and it partially glued in from the tar and sealant. I don't see it going well. There is a fillet of tar around the, frame/surround. Whatever you want to call it. That fillet might be as much as 2" thick in places! CRAZY thick!!! Underneath it is some sort of foam. Expanding spray foam I am sure. There were also some glops of expanding foam on top of the AC unit to keep the cover from rattling (my assumption anyways). We went out last night to Home Depot and got a wire wheel, some cut-off wheels, and white Flex Seal. Good stuff, I can make an air boat with it from window screening... 🤣 But once I hogged out the stuff that was coming up and feathered it out, there is a void now. It is about an inch deep too. If I just put flex seal in there at a normal 1/8 thickness, I won't be filling that void up. Water sitting in there, will be a problem and break it down. I am not sure the best approach here. I have roofing asphalt in the shed. It would nicely fill the void. But will it be compatible with the Flex seal? Or can I simply do a couple applications of the Flex Seal? EDIT: Well the first layer is down THICK. I am going to let it set up for an hour or so and then try to brush some of it back into the void. I was able to fill in a couple spots pretty well.
  4. I have AAA too. And we got the RV package.... YMMV but when we needed a tow we waited 3hrs with promises of a tow is coming, before finally being told "Sorry we can't find anyone." We wasted well over 5 hrs trying to get towed that night, and they never came through. It could be our area, or being it was late evening, could have been the time. Our experience was so bad we got Good Sam and the next week got it towed back. My point mainly being, either have RV towing, or be ready for the tow bill on one of these guys. Good Sam offers a lot of benefits beyond towing, that might make it the more worthwhile choice.
  5. Even at such low mileage, plan on a tune-up and a good look over in the engine bay. Good chance your fuel pump will be on its last legs. Sitting for that long gums them up. Tires again, check DOT date codes. You will almost defiantly have to replace them. If you know enough to do most/all the work yourself, you will be fine. If you can't and have to take it into a shop, that is when it becomes expensive. Most importantly before you decide to drive it home, get your insurance/towing upgraded for RV and make sure enough time has passed to have it instated. AAA has an upgraded RV tier, but it is basically a joke. Take a look at Good Sam. If halfway home it has an issue and has to be towed, these are NOT a normal $50-150 tow... A CHEAP deal of the century tow will cost you $500!!!
  6. I think my plan is changing slightly... As I mentioned over in my transmission thread, today I decided to back the RV up, and it worked! My driveway has enough downward slope I knew I could get it rolling a little, but it actually backed up under its own power. So whatever I decide to do about the transmission woes, I am thinking I want to focus on the other little projects I have already gotten the parts for, and also get the roof and ceiling fixed up. While the grey tarp is keeping the water out and has let things dry out, I am sure it is a touch more of an eyesore to the neighbors. I need the roof leak fixed. And I want to get the interior back to a usable zero point. The transmission is actually a small job to tackle from a physical and time standpoint. It is just potentially expensive. The other things will take more time, but aren't really big money outlays. I need to save up for the transmission (or grab a used one) so right now I have the time to devote to the other things. I am also thinking that once I get the backup/rearview camera installed I can actually get it out on the road some around town. It will give me a better idea if I have anything else going on with the transmission, or perhaps if I can even trust it for a couple outings (probably staying close by lol). Also, this thing just needs to get used and proven. As of yet I don't know if the fridge works, since it has never been parked level enough. I haven't filled the freshwater tank or plugged into "city" water to see if those systems work.
  7. Well the plot thickens! So today I fired it up to run a bit and had a clear driveway, so I decided to try backing it up again. And it did so! I had to rev it up a little it, then use the brakes to kinda control it. But it was much smoother than it was before. WTH gives?! It was the first time I started it in a week or so (and it fired right up too with zero hesitation). I can repeatedly get it to lock into park now too. Seems it mostly just requires a quick and deliberate pull back into park from drive. But I am really wondering why it did so much better today, than it did last week? Not sure if my attempts have just been inconsistent, or if the problem itself is inconsistent? It didn't seem to care or change any after I let it run for half an hour or so. Obviously transmission fluid probably isn't super hot sitting there not doing any true work.
  8. And it would have to be kitted out proper bosozoku style! Cause it is JDM lol! I have threatened to do a few bosozoku mods to mine... Yeah every car is different. I have a high performance classic VW. After a rebuild and reseal, I decided to switch over to Mobil 1 once I was done with the break in period. I didn't make it 10k before I had to yank the transmission to replace the main crank seal, and shortly after I had to replace the front crank, intermediate shaft, and camshaft seals. I also found that the synthetic oil (well specifically Mobil 1) seemed to need to be checked slightly more often. I was not getting 3k out of them, let alone 6k. Switched back to conventional, no more problems. Another thing oil change and service shops like to do is upsell to high mileage oil. Yes it does help, but once you start using it, you have to stay with it. It basically swells the seals up a touch. But if you stop using it, seals tend to deteriorate even more quickly. So the takeaway I get from this is to simply stick with what your engine has known the longest and likes. You probably won't get massivly extended intervals out of the Mobil 1, and it could be a dangerous false sense of security. I would rather change conventional oil a little sooner and not run a motor dry.
  9. Yeah, everything is pointing towards Maineah's diagnosis of a bad reverse clutch pack. Unfortunately I am pretty sure that is the case.
  10. Thank you guys! I will do some reading up then! Honestly, I am not 100% sure all the ranges work. I have not driven it far or fast enough to get it into 3rd and OD. It also doesn't start with the ignition switch. For a brief moment I had it working on the switch, then it stopped. Everything "felt" okay on the initial tests. So that actually kinda correlates with the oddities going on with the parking sometimes working and sometimes not. I would feel pretty silly if it was just linkages out of adjustment... So I will start there, then contemplate getting a pressure gauge on it, or taking it to the tranny shop. I need to see how high the oil gauge at the shop goes to... WME that was actually SUPER helpful! So the shop gauge doesn't go high enough. It is intended for engine oil. So I will dig around and see if I can come up with one. I just went out and fiddled with the truck for a few minutes. If I rev it up in drive and then quickly pop it back all the way into park, it seems to always hold the park lock. I don't get the forward "jump" until right out of N into D. So it "seems" like that is okay. I get only the slightest nudge into R from N, and it isn't enough to let the vehicle move. This time I couldn't get ANY shuddering movment roving the truck up in reverse. Well I am going to try and see if it is a silly adjustment issue. It probably isn't. But hey gotta start there in the diagnostics tree eh?
  11. Okay, this is what it was feeling like to me and I was trying poorly to express. What would cause it to not be fully applied, or to kick in and out? Unless we can brainstorm up a solid plan, or good way for me to diagnose this, I am probably going to call Monday and try and get an appointment at our local transmission specialist for a diag. The woman has said we will fix this once I told her the worst case price for a reman trans. But that price will put getting to use this 5-6 months out. I wanted at least one short excursion in for motivation before tearing into it and taking it off the road for a few weeks to months for the renovations. I wanted to actually use it, to get a feel for how or if I want to redo the layout inside.
  12. Yes thank you! They came through, but due to image pixilation, none of the fine print descriptions can be made out. Let's not worry about if for now. It kinda looks like we may already have a solid diag. I am listening. Just trying to wrap my brain around a complete comprehension of the issue. I tend to be, over focused (ok fine, stubborn), until I understand a problem fully. Your explanation above, gets me the rest of the way there. Well mostly haha. Maineah, PLEASE humor me one last time!!! I was trying to remain optimistic. I have seen icky fluid come out of many transmissions I serviced over the years, and that not mean they are bad. Still with only 32k on the odo, I was suspicious. Now I was working in the dark with a spotlight backlighting me and thought I saw sparkles. Yet when I poured that fluid back out of the transport container in normal daylight, I didn't see them. Just dark smelly fluid. The transmission shudders like it is going in and out of reverse, but it only did this at the higher revs. I would have to try again to get an exact number, or to see if it goes solid if I rev it up a little higher. To my uneducated automatic transmission comprehension, this felt like an oil pressure issue, and hence I remembered the oddities of the feed tubes. And no, fixing that did NOT fix the reverse. There are some other oddities going on too. I noticed sometimes the park lock engages, sometimes not. There seems to be a specific pattern that makes it work. I always thought this was a pure mechanical thing, but it acted kinda like a pressure or rpm related issue. I didn't figure out the pattern that makes it work yet. Or if there is a specific one even. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Also earlier that Saturday morning I DID back it up with zero issues. While my driveway does have a slight downhill angle on it, I noticed it wasn't backing up later. I think it would have registered the first time if it had just been rolling down that initial backup. So, is there ANY other explanation than bad reverse clutch, rebuild or replace transmission? I haven't driven it far, or long enough to determine if the transmission does everything else it should. Or heck, if it behaves once it is warmed up. Or slips... I only got it up to maybe 30-35mph through the neighborhood.
  13. I would replace the whole length. The wood adds a good bit of structure to the front, and a splice really won't cut it. You already have everything off to get access.
  14. Okay... I found a new valve body for $194. This is a price I could live with. Especially if it is the "most likely" fix and I can do it without pulling the transmission. Any thoughts? I am contemplating doing the trial of "Just Answer" for $5. But I am hesitant and honestly a call to a local shop from another local shop might do it for free. Also I found another rebuild manual online with a troubleshooting section. Everything mentioned there, except no reverse.
  15. Well the oil tube was loose for sure. But fixing it, didn't fix my lack of reverse. At the moment there is a car behind the RV so I wasn't able to rev it up like I did before and see if the shuddering reverse still comes on. I will experiment with that tomorrow. WME I tried to message you and it said you can't receive messages. I would love that troubleshooting flowchart! Mpanzar, I didn't check exit shaft play. I didn't make it very deep into that thread. I will probably have another go at it. So, I am probably going to have to find a transmission for this thing... While I am sure I could tackle this myself, I have to weigh that against the misery it causes me. My arms itched for days where I got the ATF on them the last go at this. It kinds sucks being allergic to ATF. Still, if whatever repair needed can be done with transmission still in the vehicle, I will tackle it. My thought on repairing this transmission is simple. While it has something cooked inside, it is pretty likely to be in better overall condition for things like bearings, due to its low mileage. But whatever the case, more investigation is needed first. Hopefully, this issue isn't a deal breaker. My local yard has a 1982 Pickup listed in inventory. But can't tell if it is an automatic. I see one on eBay, but it is a good bit more than I would like to pay for a used transmission and it is for a 2.8 anyways. Does this bolt up to the 2.4? I think my local yard is a better choice. Good chance they have more than one choice for this... Also hunting for a rebuilt one.
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