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About thewanderlustking

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  1. I think my plan is changing slightly... As I mentioned over in my transmission thread, today I decided to back the RV up, and it worked! My driveway has enough downward slope I knew I could get it rolling a little, but it actually backed up under its own power. So whatever I decide to do about the transmission woes, I am thinking I want to focus on the other little projects I have already gotten the parts for, and also get the roof and ceiling fixed up. While the grey tarp is keeping the water out and has let things dry out, I am sure it is a touch more of an eyesore to the neighbors. I need the roof leak fixed. And I want to get the interior back to a usable zero point. The transmission is actually a small job to tackle from a physical and time standpoint. It is just potentially expensive. The other things will take more time, but aren't really big money outlays. I need to save up for the transmission (or grab a used one) so right now I have the time to devote to the other things. I am also thinking that once I get the backup/rearview camera installed I can actually get it out on the road some around town. It will give me a better idea if I have anything else going on with the transmission, or perhaps if I can even trust it for a couple outings (probably staying close by lol). Also, this thing just needs to get used and proven. As of yet I don't know if the fridge works, since it has never been parked level enough. I haven't filled the freshwater tank or plugged into "city" water to see if those systems work.
  2. Well the plot thickens! So today I fired it up to run a bit and had a clear driveway, so I decided to try backing it up again. And it did so! I had to rev it up a little it, then use the brakes to kinda control it. But it was much smoother than it was before. WTH gives?! It was the first time I started it in a week or so (and it fired right up too with zero hesitation). I can repeatedly get it to lock into park now too. Seems it mostly just requires a quick and deliberate pull back into park from drive. But I am really wondering why it did so much better today, than it did last week? Not sure if my attempts have just been inconsistent, or if the problem itself is inconsistent? It didn't seem to care or change any after I let it run for half an hour or so. Obviously transmission fluid probably isn't super hot sitting there not doing any true work.
  3. And it would have to be kitted out proper bosozoku style! Cause it is JDM lol! I have threatened to do a few bosozoku mods to mine... Yeah every car is different. I have a high performance classic VW. After a rebuild and reseal, I decided to switch over to Mobil 1 once I was done with the break in period. I didn't make it 10k before I had to yank the transmission to replace the main crank seal, and shortly after I had to replace the front crank, intermediate shaft, and camshaft seals. I also found that the synthetic oil (well specifically Mobil 1) seemed to need to be checked slightly more often. I was not getting 3k out of them, let alone 6k. Switched back to conventional, no more problems. Another thing oil change and service shops like to do is upsell to high mileage oil. Yes it does help, but once you start using it, you have to stay with it. It basically swells the seals up a touch. But if you stop using it, seals tend to deteriorate even more quickly. So the takeaway I get from this is to simply stick with what your engine has known the longest and likes. You probably won't get massivly extended intervals out of the Mobil 1, and it could be a dangerous false sense of security. I would rather change conventional oil a little sooner and not run a motor dry.
  4. Yeah, everything is pointing towards Maineah's diagnosis of a bad reverse clutch pack. Unfortunately I am pretty sure that is the case.
  5. Thank you guys! I will do some reading up then! Honestly, I am not 100% sure all the ranges work. I have not driven it far or fast enough to get it into 3rd and OD. It also doesn't start with the ignition switch. For a brief moment I had it working on the switch, then it stopped. Everything "felt" okay on the initial tests. So that actually kinda correlates with the oddities going on with the parking sometimes working and sometimes not. I would feel pretty silly if it was just linkages out of adjustment... So I will start there, then contemplate getting a pressure gauge on it, or taking it to the tranny shop. I need to see how high the oil gauge at the shop goes to... WME that was actually SUPER helpful! So the shop gauge doesn't go high enough. It is intended for engine oil. So I will dig around and see if I can come up with one. I just went out and fiddled with the truck for a few minutes. If I rev it up in drive and then quickly pop it back all the way into park, it seems to always hold the park lock. I don't get the forward "jump" until right out of N into D. So it "seems" like that is okay. I get only the slightest nudge into R from N, and it isn't enough to let the vehicle move. This time I couldn't get ANY shuddering movment roving the truck up in reverse. Well I am going to try and see if it is a silly adjustment issue. It probably isn't. But hey gotta start there in the diagnostics tree eh?
  6. Okay, this is what it was feeling like to me and I was trying poorly to express. What would cause it to not be fully applied, or to kick in and out? Unless we can brainstorm up a solid plan, or good way for me to diagnose this, I am probably going to call Monday and try and get an appointment at our local transmission specialist for a diag. The woman has said we will fix this once I told her the worst case price for a reman trans. But that price will put getting to use this 5-6 months out. I wanted at least one short excursion in for motivation before tearing into it and taking it off the road for a few weeks to months for the renovations. I wanted to actually use it, to get a feel for how or if I want to redo the layout inside.
  7. Yes thank you! They came through, but due to image pixilation, none of the fine print descriptions can be made out. Let's not worry about if for now. It kinda looks like we may already have a solid diag. I am listening. Just trying to wrap my brain around a complete comprehension of the issue. I tend to be, over focused (ok fine, stubborn), until I understand a problem fully. Your explanation above, gets me the rest of the way there. Well mostly haha. Maineah, PLEASE humor me one last time!!! I was trying to remain optimistic. I have seen icky fluid come out of many transmissions I serviced over the years, and that not mean they are bad. Still with only 32k on the odo, I was suspicious. Now I was working in the dark with a spotlight backlighting me and thought I saw sparkles. Yet when I poured that fluid back out of the transport container in normal daylight, I didn't see them. Just dark smelly fluid. The transmission shudders like it is going in and out of reverse, but it only did this at the higher revs. I would have to try again to get an exact number, or to see if it goes solid if I rev it up a little higher. To my uneducated automatic transmission comprehension, this felt like an oil pressure issue, and hence I remembered the oddities of the feed tubes. And no, fixing that did NOT fix the reverse. There are some other oddities going on too. I noticed sometimes the park lock engages, sometimes not. There seems to be a specific pattern that makes it work. I always thought this was a pure mechanical thing, but it acted kinda like a pressure or rpm related issue. I didn't figure out the pattern that makes it work yet. Or if there is a specific one even. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Also earlier that Saturday morning I DID back it up with zero issues. While my driveway does have a slight downhill angle on it, I noticed it wasn't backing up later. I think it would have registered the first time if it had just been rolling down that initial backup. So, is there ANY other explanation than bad reverse clutch, rebuild or replace transmission? I haven't driven it far, or long enough to determine if the transmission does everything else it should. Or heck, if it behaves once it is warmed up. Or slips... I only got it up to maybe 30-35mph through the neighborhood.
  8. I would replace the whole length. The wood adds a good bit of structure to the front, and a splice really won't cut it. You already have everything off to get access.
  9. Okay... I found a new valve body for $194. This is a price I could live with. Especially if it is the "most likely" fix and I can do it without pulling the transmission. Any thoughts? I am contemplating doing the trial of "Just Answer" for $5. But I am hesitant and honestly a call to a local shop from another local shop might do it for free. Also I found another rebuild manual online with a troubleshooting section. Everything mentioned there, except no reverse.
  10. Well the oil tube was loose for sure. But fixing it, didn't fix my lack of reverse. At the moment there is a car behind the RV so I wasn't able to rev it up like I did before and see if the shuddering reverse still comes on. I will experiment with that tomorrow. WME I tried to message you and it said you can't receive messages. I would love that troubleshooting flowchart! Mpanzar, I didn't check exit shaft play. I didn't make it very deep into that thread. I will probably have another go at it. So, I am probably going to have to find a transmission for this thing... While I am sure I could tackle this myself, I have to weigh that against the misery it causes me. My arms itched for days where I got the ATF on them the last go at this. It kinds sucks being allergic to ATF. Still, if whatever repair needed can be done with transmission still in the vehicle, I will tackle it. My thought on repairing this transmission is simple. While it has something cooked inside, it is pretty likely to be in better overall condition for things like bearings, due to its low mileage. But whatever the case, more investigation is needed first. Hopefully, this issue isn't a deal breaker. My local yard has a 1982 Pickup listed in inventory. But can't tell if it is an automatic. I see one on eBay, but it is a good bit more than I would like to pay for a used transmission and it is for a 2.8 anyways. Does this bolt up to the 2.4? I think my local yard is a better choice. Good chance they have more than one choice for this... Also hunting for a rebuilt one.
  11. Cool, good to know! I didn't think it was going to be too hard to do. I am curious to see exactly where/what the water is traveling through over to the compromised spot. Well it is POURING rain and thunderstorms today and I have zero leakage inside now. We got a better, grey tarp and have the whole roof properly covered up. I need to do some more research, but it seems the battery for the solar setup is from a really top notch company. The house battery was beyond cooked and I am thinking I will put the solar battery down in its spot. But I need to figure out how to integrate all the systems. At the moment it is sitting up on some ramps with the transmission fluid draining out. Even though it was just done and no miles have been put on it, I am getting pretty dark fluid back out. I will pull the pan off shortly, fix the oil tube back up, and then put it back together and see what happens. Maybe she will be backing up off the ramps tonight!!! And.... Nope. That didn't fix it. Crap.
  12. Wow, that is spendy stuff right there... And AC Gasket for the win!!! Sorta. Maybe? I dunno. LOL! (I think I also have a leak in the front where the clearance light are supposed to be.) We did some actual "digging" into this problem. Started by removing almost half the water logged ceiling panels, then ripping down the pink foam insulation and anything else in the way. Eventually, I found a single tiny pinhole in the roof. But it did not seem to correspond to any of my suspects. So I got up on the roof with the hose and hit the suspect spots with a hose. Nothing happened. I spent about half an hour up there before putting the water to the OTHER side of the roof, that's when it FINALLY started leaking. It took a while to find the spot though. Reaching underneath the ac cover I found a spot where the rubber membrane had pulled away. As soon as I stuck the hose there it started pouring in, on the other side... I don't think it is the AC gasket specifically? But it appears to be going underneath the built up rubber coating and traveling over to either a corrosion blow through hole, or a somehow compromised spot on the roof. Yeah, so the AC cover has to come off for better inspection. But a problem. It hurts to move around up there. I am doing a balancing act on the reinforcement beams up there. Ideally, I would have some teak runner planks for maneuverability. But I don't see being up there often enough to make that worthwhile once the roof is finally fixed. This looks like a problem that has plagued the last couple owners. I think for now a plywood runner I can just set up there will get it done. In the real world, house chores have gotten away from me the last two weeks. So I am catching up on those and daydreaming of a repaired roof, and an RV that backs up. If I am having a really awesome dream, the backup camera is hooked up and working too!
  13. Same, I had weird charging issues and replacing the alternator fixed the weird lights issues. I think there is likely bad/weak diodes in the instrument cluster causing some electrical back feeding. My alternator belt was also so skinny I was sure they had given me the wrong size belt when they handed me the new one. Replace your isolator. They are pretty cheap on Amazon.
  14. I have been hoping somebody would reply to this that had a solid idea of what your problem could be, but nobody has yet. I think your explanation just looses most after the halfway point or something lol. So first off, are you using a water pressure regulator? At this point it may be too late, but might be a good plan to use this from now on. Our little RV's seem to rely heavily on pex lines and fittings and the older compression versions of these. Very basic parts. While these are great during use, the on/off cycles can put a toll on them sealing. At Home Depot you can get a cool product made by Ryobi called a borescope. They have a self contained version with a monitor, and a version that connects to your phone. I have had both and prefer the self contained version. It seems to have a clearer image. The other "PhoneWorks" version does have its advantages though. It is easier to keep the camera rotated to an angle where you don't loose your orientation. There are other choices out there too, but I found the contained version especially to be better quality than many of the high end professional ones. Anyways, borescope. I would use one to take a peak above where the drip underneath is occurring and try to find the source of the leak. It sounds like you have a fitting that has come loose and constant pressure on it is just enough to cause your issues.
  15. No real progress made this week. I tore down a good bit of the ceiling paneling to access and asses the leak. Pretty convinced it it that solar panel on the passenger side. Some idiot screwed it right into the roof with self tapper bolts and no for of sealant that I can see. It also appears to be the one bolt above the cabinets, requiring their removal also. I also see another suspect spot. Waiting for a dry day or so to get up there with the hose. I did manage to clean up that mess I made doing this though. Didn't get the reverse sorted out yet. Haven't had a chance with a crazy work week. Good news though, means more funds to fix it up! I DID manage to get the TPMS system fully online and programed. Now it reads PSI instead of BAR and the pressure alerts are set where I want them. I discovered that if I unscrew the sensors, they stop transmitting once they are below 1psi for a certain amount of time. But they also have replaceable batteries so I am not sure if I will bother. Super happy with the setup! Been watching Keep Your Daydream videos, super inspirational! I have to realize that all of this now is part of the process for that later.
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