Utah-Clay
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Posts posted by Utah-Clay
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I had this exact problem in a trailer. Low battery. Fan would not blow strong enough to move the airvane switch all of the way. Computer would think that it was a fault. Worked great plugged in but would fail on the second night.
Check your battery voltage then the airvane switch.
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On 11/3/2019 at 4:35 AM, AtlantaCamper said:
Attached is a procedure for the headgasket. Perhaps it can be helpful to you. I had originally planned to do just my headgasket but I ended up doing the HG plus a new head, timing chain, and entire front end kit (water/oil pumps/cover). It's much easier and cost effective to take care of any of that stuff if it's needed while you are doing the HG.
Linda has a point about getting a quality gasket and related parts like the head bolts. It's a long and involved procedure and you don't want to have to do it twice.
This looks great but I think it is for the 4 cylinder. I'm doing a 3.0, I appreciate you sharing though.
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I called Toyota Corp and was told the SSC is no longer honored. Asked again, same answer so doing it myself. I think I am going to get the Yotashop kits that are OEM, do all of the frontend while It is apart.
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Going to have to do the head gaskets. I have heard to only use the "new" OEM head gaskets and I have heard that anything other than Felpro is OK. There are huge price differences between the two kits, Evergreen on Amazon and OEM at Yota shop. Advice?
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I have a 92 with a 3.0.
Driving home from a fun week I noticed the temperature spike in a down hill after a climb. It did this once before on a traffic jam at the bottom of a hill. There was a rest stop so I pulled over, let it cool and took off, temp spiked again. Tried a third time and still over heating. Towed it home. The radiator took about gallon and a quart.
It starts fine but I haven't stressed it yet. My first thought was blown head gasket but no white smoke, bubbles in the radiator or sludge in the oil. I'm not sure if the antifreeze loss is from consumption of barfing it out after overheating. I am going to pull the plugs today.
Thoughts?
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If someone has a wiring diagram including this circuit that would be very helpfull. I could not find this circuit in the diagrams in the factory service manual.
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Duh... 1992 3.0 V6, Auto trans. I think that is the A340?
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I want to hook my backup display and camera to come on when I put the beast in reverse. I have the camera tapped into the reverse light at the rear but the display is presently in the cigarette lighter. I would like to tap into the reverse circuit in the cab or on the transmission but I cant find where the switch is located. I looked at the service manual but I couldn't find any indication of the reverse switch. Any ideas on where I can tap into?
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I used FRP and a specific FRP glue to adhere the pieces to my existing walls. I had no leaks to deal with.
I shrunk the base cabinet to give more room while sitting on the throne.
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4 hours ago, Maineah said:
Buy the tank tap from Onan it usually is about 1/4 tank high. I'm 100% against EFI tapped fuel supply especially when under power the pressure is too high for a pump that runs 3 PSI max. When the fuel tank is full the return pressure will climb, a good 50% from the EFI fuel is returned to the tank so restrictions and fuel level play a role in the return pressure. From Onan "Some vehicle manufacturers permit tying into the fuel return line on high pressure fuel systems. Contact the vehicle manufacturer for details and approval. The fuel return line pressure at the point of connection must not exceed 1-112 psi, or carburetor flooding could result" The only way would be to "T" into the system return line, because it is low in the tank on some systems it will affect the fuel return pressure very possibly exceeding the Onan spects depending on the amount of fuel in the tank.
I have looked for that Onan kit online but have failed in my efforts. I would prefer not to have to open and close the valve each time I used it.
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My 92 Horizon taps into the efi fuel return. Works fine but will push a little fuel out causing a fuel stink, necessitating a shut off in the fuel line. I would like to find a remote fuel shut off so I don't have to reach under the camper to turn it on and off.
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I have a considerable amount of space under my closet next to the hot water heater. I would like to install a baggage hatch on the rear panel so I could easily access this space. Great place for all of the dirty exterior items like levelling pads. If I cut out the hole I would end up cutting one of the aluminum framing stringers. Would it be a problem? Should I rivet a plate inside surrounding the opening?
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Just finished phase 1 of the remodel. New FRP in the shower with Italian poplar and Baltic birch in the bath. It is so hard to work in tiny places!
Had to use a heatgun to remove the wallpaper that was stuck. Discovered that if you carefully apply heat to the wrinkled areas on the roof it reactivated the glue and shrinks the wallpaper back in place. A temporary solution but makes it look nice now.
All of the plumbing and mechanical looked great! I verified my Horizon ST is aluminum framed as well.
I tried to take a picture of the shower but none of the angles worked. Just a big field of white!
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On 8/15/2019 at 4:05 PM, AtlantaCamper said:
If you can find a good option for joining your old (presumably butyl) pipes to new pex pipes then buy a bunch of those and just repair as you go. Or if you have the gumption you can just replace all of the butyl with pex. I spent an hour at the local plumbing supply store and bought a nice set of all of the bits and pieces I could possibly need to do any repairs and I just keep all of that in the camper now. I had a leak start one trip and it took very little time to fix it on the road by using the pex to butyl adapters and just dealing with the problem area.
Company called PEXLOCK has butyl to PEX fittings as well as some cool clamps that don't require a crimper.
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Make sure everything is turned off before you open the valve.
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I have been searching for a new piece of trim around my fuel filler. Searched for Fuel filler trim, fuel filler cover, fuel filler flange, nothing is working. Any ideas on a replacement or more search words?
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I had the earlier version of that MotorI diesel in a Jeep Liberty. Awesome torque, it is a huge 4 cylinder diesel after all but had tons of issues. I spent more time and money on that beast than any other car I owned. I did like driving it though. I think the hassle of putting in a modern diesel out weighs the benefits.
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This water heater is an odd little beast, I am finding it difficult to get specific information. I would like to check the Anode but where I would expect it is just a drain plug. I thought it might be where the drain plug screws in but I can't tell how to remove it.
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Be aware that most inverters are modified sine wave and some A.C. Devices won't work, like my wife's curling iron. Pure sine are more expensive but produce a true power profile.
You can create an automatic charger disconnect by using a relay that is activated only when A.C. power is present or opposite, disconnects when inverter power is present.
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53 minutes ago, Maineah said:
Mt Washington is a good trip no RV's up the auto road but they have both a cog railroad and coaches to access the summit that's all most a must see in the Mt Washington area.The Conway NH area (less than 1/2 hour) has something for everyone dozens of really good restaurants and brewpubs, acres of outlet stores scenic train rides etc.
Last fall I pulled my trailer to the Cog Railroad and camped next to several full size pusher RV's in the parking lot as part of the Harvest Host program. Beautiful area with great hiking and views!
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Not mine, just passing this along. Looks very rough but the price is right.
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Take off all the screens and aerators on the faucets, the little passages get plugged with sediment and hard water deposits.
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4 hours ago, BobBeery said:
Utah-Clay, do you have the Airlift part number for that compressor-gauge set? The airlift website gives 10 choices for Toyota micro-mini but none shown have two gauges, although one choice shown has two needles in one gauge.
This one- it was $50 cheaper last month.
Air Lift 57113/25812 Set of Rear Load Lifter 5000 Series w/Load Controller II On-Board Air Compressor System Kit for 86-94 Toyota Motorhome Micro Mini
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2JW2P6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_80l7Cb933C0PA
Wasn't too hard to install BUT I have a very slow leak on the passenger side in wed to track down.
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47 minutes ago, WME said:
To make your engine really happy you need to change the rear axle ratio. Common upgrades are to 4.56 or4.88. $450-$650 eBay
So what is the stock ratio?
1987 Odyssey Remodel/Update
in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!
Posted
I would be in for $350 a set!!