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bas_vossen

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About bas_vossen

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Music, traveling, culture

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1979 Toyota Travette
  • Location
    Stockton CA

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  1. I read Webers wouldn't pass smog, and consume more while indeed adding some extra hp. The Aisans aren't that hard to rebuild, the kit comes with complete exploded view. I'll continue my rebuild and make someone happy. It's CA smog specific. I also found the exact way of connecting all vacuum lines.
  2. After finding a completely rebuild Aisan carb in Craigslist, I mailed the advertiser who was in Napa, he called back on Monday, and I picked it up the same day. Installed it, and my problems were gone. New plugs, cables, distributor cap and rotor, timing checked, and no more gross polluting. Unfortunately, I forgot about the leaking fuel filler hose, so still have to repair that before I pass smog. I think my old carb was rebuilt by an amateur, who forgot a couple of ball valves. The rebuild kit has all of those, but I'm not going to put time in it anymore. If anyone wants to buy my old carb and rebuild it, it's for sale now, incl. the kit for $150. Pics on reply.
  3. I think I need this part but Napa (nor Autozone or O'Reilly) doesn't have it anymore: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB24477
  4. After a complete cleaning of my carburetor, an original AISAN 38151, and routing all vacuum lines according to the diagram above, I started the engine, and at first, it ran extremely high idle so I ran out of the car to adjust the 3 screws until it was low again. I stopped the engine by testing the EGR valve, and that must work since the engine immediately stalled. Unfortunately the next time I started it, it wouldn't hold any idle so I screwed in the screws. Now even with those 3 screws (low idle, high idle and the mechanical throttle-stop on the front side of the carb) I can't get it to keep running on idle. When I unscrew the air cleaner cap, I see both valves are open all the way, and I suspect my secondary throttle diaphragm to be leaking. Could this be the cause of these probs?
  5. can't help it having a carb. What bothers me for example, is that my positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve tested fine, while in the smog report it's 'not functioning'. I have no idea what to do. Thinking about selling it. This way, I do not have any pleasure from the vehicle, while it already costs me tax, insurance, not to speak about the investment. When confronted with the California smog rules (that are massively bypassed once vehicle passes; just lookup 'desmog' on youtube) I'm very very sad, to the point of simply wanting to leave this state. The government should at least offer the right vacuum hose diagrams. Also, the 'visual inspection' has nothing to do with the reason smog once was started, which was more functional than car fashion. I include the vacuum diagram that's on the hood. Which seems different from the ones I see here. It's also different from the hose connections in my reality.
  6. Unfortunately, I failed smog, although I have new oil, high grade Chevron fuel with additive, new fuel cap and (i thought) all vacuum lines connected. It ran fine before smog test, but after, it wouldn't stay running, I had to keep revving to keep it going. Tester said I PCV valve is defect, and measured 2848 NO emission @ 15mph which makes me a gross polluter. I'm not happy to pollute, so I'm looking for a good vacuum hose diagram for the 1978 20R truck (CA smog). The diagram on the hood is partly faded. Online search didn't give the right one.
  7. We had put new tires on it and wanted to drive to Sacramento to register the camper but the engine stalled underway, couldn't get fuel. This happened a few miles after we got gas (from running almost empty). When I take the fuel line off of the carb, and let my wife turn on the key and kick the gas pedal, there's lots of fuel coming out of the hose, so I think my fuel pump and filter are okay. Today I took the carburetor off, and cleaned it with Gunout. Now I'm stuck with a tiny little spring that I don't know where it belongs...(and the exploded views in the Chilton manual are too small to discover it) but I do hope that when I'm going back to the Middle of Nowhere, where the camper is, I'll get it up and running again. Have no clue as to look for any further. Something else: we'd called AAA for a tow, kept us waiting for a truck that only came 23 hour after the first call and didn't want to tow us because he was afraid 'the camper would be dangerous on the road'. He offered a commercial tow service, which would be $750 for a 30 mile tow. I have no idea why I pay extra for this 'tow service'. We should collectively ask AAA what is going on with towing old Toyota motorhomes, or we'll loose our towing 'rights'. It starts to feel this Travette is a money hole... 😞
  8. I've found a good deal not too far from where the motorhome now is. With the 1994 tires I should be able to make it there, and the shop has already given me a free tire to replace the empty spare. They're indeed 185, since 245 are not made anymore since 20 years (or extremely rare and expensive). In the 70s wide tires were a sort of fashion (look at VW buggies from that era). Thanks for your help and good advice!! ps. I've got a blog about this camper at https://freewheelerstore.blogspot.com/
  9. Are you sure that a less wide tire like a 185 can just fit on a rim made for a 245 width?
  10. Recently bought a Travette motorhome with double rear axle and 25 year old tires. The rear tires have size 245/60R14, and they're pretty expensive. What is the best choice of tires to put on these? My wife thinks the wide tires give less stress on both axles. I think the less wide, the more grip, and better economy. Plus they are a bit more affordable, especially now I have to buy 7 tires in total (including spare). Hope someone here knows more about it. Pics will be coming soon 🙂
  11. Five years since the last post. Do you still have the Travette?
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