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mpanzar

Toyota Advanced Member
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About mpanzar

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    86' Sunrader 18ft RWD
  • Location
    Seattle, WA

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  1. I also had issues with one of my front KYBs leaking after a year. I replaced with bilsteins and haven't had any issues.
  2. regarding the threading. do you know what type of threads are on that brass fitting? I believe the fuel lines are similar to the brake lines and will require flare fittings. if the brass fitting is NPT it won't work for a couple of reasons. (1) NPT is not compatible with flared fittings (2)If the toyota end is not a flare type, it would be a likely be BSPT or R thread type which are also not compatible with NPT. If you the part to the auto parts store they can likely provide an adaptor fitting. In any case, i think the part you need is a metric female inverted flare fitting to adapt to hose.
  3. @linda s I agree with both posts regarding two examples shown. and i agree with the principles you mentioned. Regarding the air deflector on the tractor trailers, that was designed and likely optimized over several iterations. As for our lovely sunraders, i am assuming they were not designed for aerodynamic performance, and if they were i doubt there was much testing and iteration. (if there is aerodynamic testing data with images, i think we need t-shirts made ). On our sunraders, the deflector like geometry just after the cabover section as you move towards the aft, may trip the flow (similar to the first truck image) due to the relatively sharp nature of the geometry as compared to the examples of the car and truck deflector. I'm not an expert in aerodynamics/gas flow or CFD but i have some design experience related to the subject and have encountered similar phenomenon due sharp geometry. Im not positive on the engineering, but i believe the sunraders deflector would cause boundary layer separation and promote turbulent flow. I guess there is only one way to find out!
  4. With all due respect, the diagram of the car is not applicable to any toyota RV.
  5. 3 hours is reasonable. both axle shafts need to be removed to pull the drums.
  6. Regarding the pump for the solar dome, if pumping to the roof and assuming the water will come back down to the pump level, head is reduced significantly. The caveat is that the pump must have enough power to overcome the initial lift or priming . Once the water is on the downhill side it will begin to pull vacuum and head loss will be reduced. I believe the pipe system is better than a tank system in this case. you'll have better baffling with a pipe system, the CG of the system/camper will be lower, and it should be less weight on the roof. My personal opinion is that the effort is not worth the heat output, id boil a pot of water and add it to some ambient temp water.
  7. you could wrap a copper tubing around your exhaust for a cheap heat exchanger.
  8. Just a WAG to get the conversation going with some numbers, maybe $12,000.00 ±$2000 USD.
  9. ive driven both motors in motorshomes and box trucks, with auto transmissions, several years in each. i found the 3.0 much easier to drive, and quieter. Both motors had there problems at times, but nothing too serious, timing chain guide issues on the 22re and waterpump on the 3.0. In my opinion the 3.0 is not much harder to work on than the 22RE, but it is different. Most 3.0s on the road have had the head gasket issue fixed, but that is something to look out for.
  10. This might help if your interested in installing a generic fuel sender unit. looks like the max resistance is 110Ω for a 4 runner
  11. this is a pretty read regarding starting issues. i had a similar problem, if not the same and it solved my starting issues. https://lcengineering.com/engine-starter-relay-tricks/
  12. those look like the self resetting fuses that have been bypassed. Those are all over my rig but wired to break the line leading to the house battery. in your case they look like they may have been used to distribute power along the main power line to the house battery. they served me well when my main power line was smashed/shorted between the frame and camper shell during a trip once.
  13. I use this for the weather stripping: https://www.mcmaster.com/1566N158/
  14. I agree Linda. additionally it's nice to pull the tank completely for inspection and cleaning. debri in the tank is often the cause for failure.
  15. Im running STA Super Traxion tires on my rig. While they are not considered winter tires, they perform better than any tires i have used in the snow. Additionally they stop much better in the rain than any tire I have used. The down side is the road noise, but the improved handling is worth it to me. The specific tire is STA Super Traxion E78-14LT When the snow is fresh they plow right through with excellent traction, and have decent braking. I carry two sets of chains for when conditions get packed and icey, especially when going down mountains. lastly, one of my favorite winter sunrader tools are tire socks. They are worth their weight it gold. they are quick to install and usually get me out of trouble. depending on the conditions I use them to get to a better chain up spot if im going to be on snow for awhile. but most of the time they have enough traction and reliability to complete the task.
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