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wemit

Toyota Advanced Member
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  1. Just completed a cross country trip from Western Montana to South Bend Indiana and back. I found that driving my '85 Toyota motorhome with the four cylinder to be tiring as Hell! I had to constantly be aware of hills and the attendant "parade" behind me for most of the trip. The engine performed well with no issues other than some oil leakage. I did get fairly good gas mileage with a little over 15 mpg average for the 3600 miles driving about 60 mph. Some of the fill-ups showed over 17 mpg and one time after about four hours of a good tail wind, I got just over 20 mpg! We had headwinds in South Dakota of about 25 mph which really slowed us down resulting in a four hour run of about 10 mpg. The headwinds also actually ripped my awning off the side of the rv and broke it into many pieces all over the road. I went back but there was no way to retrieve the parts or do anything with them so I left it there. Also we had a stone jump up and crack the windshield and the muffler split open but the rig was still driveable although a bit louder. Also some advice: don't do the trip in August without cab air conditioning!
  2. I don't know where you plan on going in Montana but if you get to Kalispell, go to Gardiner's RV. They have an excellent service center and can probably help with your generator.
  3. Depends on what interior layout you have as to hard it is to remove all the carpet. I have the layout with the dinette at the rear and cabinets , stove, fridge, etc along each side. When I removed my carpet, I just removed the part down the center and out to the edges of the cabinets, etc. The carpet under the cabinets wasn't really very bad since it never gets any foot traffic, just some dust. Then it was easy to lay down a piece of new carpet that butted up to the fronts of the cabinets. I just stapled it down with a regular heavy duty staple gun. Still holding up after two years.
  4. Sorry for the late reply. I glued the 1x2 directly to the fiberglass over the cab.
  5. Yes. the entire right wall is 3/4" AC plywood. The original wall had about 8 or 9 little pieces stapled together. Looked too weak for me.
  6. You can use 3/4" plywood for the sides but 3/4" is way overkill for the bed bottom. I rebuilt my overhead and used 3/4" AC plywood for the sides and it added lots of strength and allowed for a stronger connection for the sidewall to main frame connection. For the bed surface, use plenty of framing and then lay down 1/4" ply over that. Lots of glue there makes it stronger, too. I also added 3/4" foam insulation between the framing, too.
  7. You can use 3/4" plywood for the sides but 3/4" is way overkill for the bed bottom. I rebuilt my overhead and used 3/4" AC plywood for the sides and it added lots of strength and allowed for a stronger connection for the sidewall to main frame connection. For the bed surface, use plenty of framing and then lay down 1/4" ply over that. Lots of glue there makes it stronger, too. I also added 3/4" foam insulation between the framing, too.
  8. You're probably right about keeping up with the maintenance to keep the rig on the road, besides if everything always ran perfectly, you wouldn't have all those "breakdown" stories to tell...
  9. If you disconnect the battery, how does the vehicle run?
  10. Although portable generators were not designed to work in enclosed spaces, they can be modified so that they do just fine in enclosed spaces. You do need to know what you are doing and what the requirements are for a generator in a box next to the box you are living in. Its been done before with very good results.
  11. How will you keep the water system from freezing in the Winter? Are you going to run a heater all Winter? How will you keep the grey and black water tanks from freezing? They are outside the motorhome.
  12. I'd just go right over the top of the old metal. Even though it has holes and leaks, it still provides some strength. One other thing, if you go the metal patch route, give the corners a little radius or roundover. Doing that eliminates sharp corners that can catch on stuff and is generally good sheet metal practice.
  13. Well, for starters, why not remove the ladder entirely? Most Toyota RV roofs aren't really that strong so having a ladder for access to the roof doesn't do your roof any favors. I removed my ladder and "roof rack" (what could anyone possibly store up there that would require a roof rack?) and covered the holes with "Eternabond" tape. Seems to be doing the job-no leaks. For your roof, I'd look into covering the bad portion with sheet aluminum firmly bedded down with butyl tape and screws plus trying to get rid of the sagging part any way you can.
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