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Grime_Divine

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Grime_Divine

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    Advanced Member

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1987 Gulfstream Conquest , Aluminium Frame, 22RE
  • Location
    Clearwater Florida

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  1. I dont see your picture, it must not have uploaded, but I presume the metal frame of your overhead cab is attached to the rest of your campers frame. Usually all of the metal tubes are welded together, creating a full skeleton around the entire cab that is supported by the main camper's frame (varies by builder) The screws that come from the outside are just meant to attach to the tube metal frame holding your exterior fiberglass tight to the metal tubes. They are screwed into the metal, screwing into metal tubes like this provides alot of strength. The metal frame is where all the strength is. Unless im really misunderstanding you, im not sure why you would elect to remove the screws you pictured earlier and then replace them, Wood behind (in the voids where the pink insulation is on my pictures) the metal frame is just filler to support the bed basically. The original idea being screws from the metal frame (which is where the real support and strength is) can also support a piece of wood on the other end of the frame which the original bed goes on top of. If you simply use a thick piece of plywood (3/4") to sit on the edges of the aluminum tube frame, the wood attaching to those screws isn't necessary anymore. What is important is the exterior connection made originally by screwing into to the metal tubes not be disturbed. Those screws are coming from the other side of the tube metal frame, or maybe even from the exterior of your overhead cab, so there is no way to remove them of course if the head is inaccessible to you. The metal tube frame at the base of the long white wall (the one pictured earlier by you, where some of the white has peeled away showing an old wood grain panel) this piece of metal tube frame plus the tube frame nearest to the house section of the camper should be enough to support a bed if the weight is distributed via a thick sheet of plywood. As for how to approach this. If the entire tube farthest to the front of your vehicle is strong, feels like it supports weight, that means all your tubes are welded together and everything is in order. All you have to do is use the strength of that frame to place plywood on top which will sit on the frame and youre done. Im not sure if im misunderstanding you or if the way your camper is built is significantly different to mine, but thats about all I have to say on it.
  2. Looks like those screws are coming from the outside and securing whatever that white colored panel is (and possibly more, including the outside of your camper) to the metal tubes. I would say dont mess with them. Simply place insulation around them in the manor already shown in your photo. If youre just replacing your bed space you shouldnt need to screw anything into the sides of those tubes, whatever you put should simply rest on top and then be screwed down into the tubes in order to keep it from moving around.
  3. Im not sure exactly what youre asking, but basically when i re did mine (recently, with metal tube frame just like yours) we just filled the big open space (1" deep voids in between the square tubes) with 1" thick pink insulation. All the weight of the bed up there needs to be transmitted directly to the square metal tubes only and nothing else. so the space between the bed and the metal exterior is just void you can insulate. What we did was basically get a nice thick sheet of 3/4" sanded plywood from home depot, and had it cut to the exact dimensions, then after i secured it to my metal tube frame using self tapping screws (screws meant to pierce metal). If you want and have the ability you can also cut out a removable portion so you can access the front 2 seats easier.
  4. Hola, yo habla muy pequeno espanol, No entiendo tu pregunta. Cual is tu problema? Tu tienes baja presion ? O ninguno en absoluto? El bomba de agua leges el agua desde el tanque y da presion cuando tiene a motor. O si la agua es de el "city water" (presion en el manguera) tu no neccesites el bomba de agua.
  5. Looks like you have some bad water damage here, dont worry though, if you have some time and just a little know-how with simple wood construction, this isnt a terribly difficult fix. As Dolphino pointed out, you ought to use the R-5 Pink Panther insulation at home depot. As far as the spare tire mount is concerned, yes use common sense and get a heavy board, maybe a 2x6 in 6ft length and cut it down with a chop saw. Make sure it is supported good by the floor (assuming its still solid) Also as stated by the above, youre probably going to want to rebuild that whole section of wall. these things were built cheap, so if you simply frame it out with 2x2s or 1x2s (or best is 2x4s planed to exactly 1" thickness, which works great because the pink insulation is 1" actual thickness and 1x2s are only .75", 2x2s 1.5" ect. note: tablesaw required) you can rebuild a solid wall. You may also want to use expensive grade liquid nails (not the 1$ tubes)to make sure the exterior fiberglass is actually in contact and stuck down to the wood frame pieces. When you have a simple stick frame wall with insulation, I recommend covering the lot with 5mm sanded ply (~25$ for a 4'x8' sheet) and painting or using wallpaper or whatever to your hearts content. A nail gun is handy to tack it down to your wood framing pieces, but finishing nails and a hammer will work fine as well. As far as the cabinet? again simple 2x2s, a drill and a chop saw is enough to reconstruct the cabinet to a higher quality and strength than it ever had. If your floors are mushy, cut and score and remove bad sections, replace with 1/2" or 3/4" ply and make sure the edges of the ply are supported by framing from the subfloor framing. Cover with LVT tiles or click laminate as you like. oh, and assuming the water was coming from the window. FIX THE DAMN THING. buy some butyl tape and watch a youtube video, it doesnt take too long to fix either.
  6. That thing will sell quick enough on facebook marketplace and craigslist. These things are a hot commodity when properly remodeled, and even if not. When we were looking for ours last year often we found by the time we reached out to the sellers they were already sold.
  7. Im confused by your issue, why dont you just use a square drive size 2 drill bit to remove these? My interior was riddled with them before I remodeled, think theyre almost all gone now. Square drives are actually quite nice because they have alot more gripping power on the bit compared to phillips or cross recessed.
  8. Hm, do you suppose it would be better to place something on top, or to cut out the bad portion and replace it?
  9. Please Help Me! As title suggests. I am looking to see if anyone has before "patched" their roof, or anyone who has any ideas for me. My situation is this. After a hot and very dry May in Florida rainy season is finally here. Come to see I have 2 leaks at the rear ceiling of my Toy. Water is coming in around the screws where the ladder is attached to the roof, essentially just screws straight through the sheet metal. PO must have done some sort of half whit cover up to years of water damage. Now the thin aluminum roofing is totally rusted, oxidized and flaky. In no state to stop water, even though the roof above and the ladder attachments have been totally resealed, seems like the sealant doesnt stand a chance with nothing solid underneath it. Does anyone have experience with this sort of thing? I am wondering if it is possible to DIY patch this with a smaller piece of sheet metal, or perhaps use a 1x6 or so board to elevate this area and avoid water pooling in the first place. Is there any possibility of a better sealant up top stopping this for any amount of time, or would that just be a temporary bandaid at best? Luckily I have pretty much the entire camper torn apart at this moment, so im open to most ideas. I've even considered sawing off the top portion of the ladder (I dont use it, and I highly doubt this rotten sheet metal is providing much stability when I do) to make some sort of patch job more permanent.
  10. Nice. everything looks fresh. Sticking with the original upholstery and interior?
  11. Thanks for all the info. Sorry I’m new to these 22REs but sounds like it’s pretty easy to check out the trans? Also what exactly do you mean by using the engine to break? thanks also for the snapshot. I’m thinking moccasin creek park actually as im slightly familiar with the area and enjoyed the place on recent trip and want to check out Tallulah gorge.
  12. Interests are anything really, I love to see beautiful nature and like fishing or outdoors. Looking forward to eating out a few nights in Portland too. And sounds like an interesting place to watch. What is that campground called?
  13. Best sites to see? we're heading to Portland actually as a final destination before heading back home to FL. Anything you recommend in western Maine?
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