A Seabee

It probably wouldn't be too hard to swap a 22RE in. A good cam, fresh timing chain and a little head work should yield 150 or so HP

how does the switch on the end of the shifter come apart?

I also use it almost always. My OD Off/on does not work though, so it helps the kick down when in the mountains. yeah, fuel economy sucks, but it sucks either way. just happy I have a little house on wheels

Ideally, a mechanic would measure the clearances, calculate the needed shims, remove both camshafts, and put it all back together with adjusted valves, new timing belt, cam seals, and a crank seal if needed. water pump and timing belt idler too if there's any sign of leakage out the weep hole and or the idler is noisy. You may end up spending $1000 if it needs everything, but you won't need to go back in like that for at least another 60K miles.

Is it still in the shop? The valve clearance can be checked with nothing more than a feeler gauge and the tools it takes to get the valve covers off. I've seen these engines go 160,000 miles without a valve adjustment needed. A solid mechanic could perform the adjustment if needed without any special tools either. But, if the shop doesn't have an assortment of shims, then the shim thickness needed will have to be calculated and then ordered. Exhaust valves are the ones that tighten up first. Another thing I'd ask for is to have them make the clearance at the big end of the range. the clearance if I remember correctly is .007-.011'' for intakes and 009-013" for exhaust. I'd have them get as close to .013" as they can without going over. On these engines, a noisy valve is a happy valve.

anything yet?

Itasca Spirit, somewhere in Nevada

Glad you're holding off on the computer. Hope you find out that it is in fact a plugged cat. but...don't be surprised if it's not the problem

Not a mechanic anymore, but when I was, I worked at Toyota. I've probably rebuilt 100 3VZE engines. The rule of thumb was "it's never the computer" The roaring noise-check your fan clutch, maybe it's locked up the lack of power... you gotta check all the basics first. wet and dry compression test. valve clearance, air boots, air flow meter, timing belt, distributor base timing, plug wires (original?, arcing? ), fuel pressure Is the fuel filter plugged? is the fuel pump working? is there water in the fuel? does it have a blown head gasket? how many miles does the engine have? you can check for codes with a jumper wire in the DLC under the hood you can use the same jumper wire to power up the fuel pump

front and rear stabilizer bar bushings get dry, take apart and lube with copper anti seize. that's where I'd start

a couple pics...

saw a rub through like that once on a 22RE pickup. the temp gauge read high. after replacing the radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, water pump, I found the wire harness that comes up and through the intake to the injectors and senders was rubbed through. the only wire affected was the one to the gauge sender. one strand of wire was making just enough contact with ground to make the gauge go high.

Food for thought to all of us... I worked on many Toyotas in the 10 years I wrenched there. Anytime I ever removed a fuel line, I would go back and loosen the gas cap. I don't know the physics of it, but if you leave the cap tight, fuel will leak out of the line you have off. Loosen the cap, and it can sit for a month with lines disconnected. I think the fuel expands and makes a slight pressure that pushes it out of the open line. With the cap loose, it just expands and contracts and any pressure just vents out the cap.

Terrible to lose a nice MH like that. I sent you a PM with a question

No paperwork? it's got way more than $200 worth of good parts. I bet they'll pay someone to take it rather than deal with code enforcement.