doktasoohs

bolted to the drivers inside under hood fender

well so far it is not fixed but progress has been made, i had bought a new alternater, it was bad so i had to buy another one, it was good but turns out it is for a 22re not a 22r, got it replaced again and now the regulator (second one bought so far) is the wrong one, have to take her back tomorrow on monday to put the 3rd regulater in and that is supposed to fix it. dash lights are off now as well, will keep you all updated.

i tgot a thought, get yourself a swamp cooler much cheaper and way less power required, i have 120 watts of solar panels and it runs off the sun in the day time without using the battery!

mebe I am just a hack at heart but I just took some 1.5 inch galvanized wood screws from home depot and put them where they fit the best on the roof. I put silicone caulking under the feet before screwing and covered them in the same silicone caulk you get at home depot for 2.50 a tube. I made 6 angle iron brackets for each panel about 3 inches long and drilled 4 holes in each, 2 for self tapping screws to attach to solar panel and the other 2 to use the wood screws. they arent going ANYWHERE any time soon lol. just my cheap .02 cent solution.

did that allready, good clean ground and ground wires.

This thing is a pain, ok i took it to the shop, they said i did not have power at the pass side (under the hood) fuse and they fixed that, they then told me the alt (brand new one) wasnt working. took it back to autozone and they refunded my money after it tested 3 times in a row bad. bought another one at napa and yay it works but not so fast, it was reading 16.5 volts at the battery when idling. that will cook my battery so i went back to the garage that worked on it and we both agreed it must be a bad voltage regulater (bolted under the hood on the drivers side fender)so i ordered one from napa, they asked do i want the 40 dollar one or the 80 dollar one? i went for the 80 i mean 100 dollar after tax one. after two weeks it finally arrived and i installed it and guess what? the frigging voltage is now 17.0 volts at the battery at idle. what am i doing wrong? driving me nuts, of course this is after spending thousands on the rest of the motorhome installing solar, entertainment, complete renovation on the inside of the coach etc. am at a loss for words but i will percevere, this is my dream motorhome and by golly i will ressurect it to a stand alone off grid high mpg (18+) cruiser. any thoughts? would love to hear any ideas on this.

hi john, i have an 84 phoenix so i think i can start you on your journey. I too have the no charging issue in my rig, i bought an alternater that was no good first and no difference, took it to the mechanic and he found that the fuse on the passenger side under hood fuse block did not have power/wiring issue so he jumped it from another source to the affected fuse slot. he then told me my alternator was bad so i took it back and bought another one. at this point i had them test it before i bought it and they read 15.5v. once i installed it and started it up i was getting 15.5v at the battery, you should typically see between 13.5 and 14.5, any higher and you boil your battery and it dies. The 1984 toyota 22r has (at least on mine) an external (from the alternator) voltage regulator on the driver fenderwell, I just ordered a new one today, hopefully that will get it to the proper voltage AND turn off the brake and charge lights that are on when the engine is running. As far as the wiring in the coach only working when the key is on.... do you have a coach battery bank? if you have a battery isolator under the hood try disconnecting it from the isolator, if everything does not work at this point I think you really need to look into where the coach battery is or was and see if there is a place to connect a house battery. in my phoenix in the rear of the coach on the passenger side there is what looks to be generator5 or battery compartment with a locking door accessed from the outside. I had to rewire over half my coach electric and I also added a bunch of 12v syatems as well as solar panels and a mppt charge controller. my swamp cooler runs off the solar panel alone in the day time. regards, rick

when i bought this thing it had no isolator, the guy had pulled it out. I reconnected the wire that they cut to put the isolater in at the factory so my wiring is stock 1984 toyota p/u style. the wire going to the coasch battery ius disconnected as i use solar for everything coach related for power.

Hey all I have the dreaded brake and charge light on in my 1984 pheonix, I did some googling and found out the earlier toyotas have a diode in the alternator or something like that that goes bad. I bought my replacement alternater from autozone and same problem and battery goes dead (not charging) can anyone point me in the right direction i want to tackle this problem saterday. do i need an oem part or is thee a way to fix what i have or???

if its the co2 that gives you a headache mebe a propane boat cabin heater like this one would work: http://newimages.yachtworld.com/1/9/9/7/2/1997238_15.jpg it has a small chimney to vent the co2 out so you can keep all your hatches closed. you can pick up a working used unit from 150 on up on ebay. I had one on the boat and it was super cozy. I actually have a wood burning stove installed in my toyota motorhome as well as my catalytic heater, it looks something like this one: http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structure/2/0/0/0/20009F-p.jpg

forgot to mention it is t-shirt weather inside when i use the heater.

when i got my mh its heater had been removed so I hooked up a catalytic heater and am super happy with it, its an olympian heater.

"I discovered that if you reverse direction (1n/out) while its running that it will blow its fuse." your motor on the fan is like a generator, if it is still spinning it is generating current, try waiting until it is barely spinning as it has less momentum and will probably work then. it is not broken though.

i have an 1984 phoenix and it had the same tired fridge but the ammonia had leaked out before i got it, i read hundreds of google searches on people who replaced the absorbtion unit with mixed results so i just looked on craigslist until i found a unit only used 3 trips that was basically 2 years old with 3 uses on it where the owner upgraded to a larger family unit and ended up paying 440 bux for it. i leave it on 24/7 with nothing in it half the time and it is only on setting 3 (goes to 6) and it is brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr cold so instead of wasting 250 bux trying to bring that old fridge back to life get a newer one and have cold beer in 90 degree weather with it on setting 3!!!

wtf is an rv cam omg roflmao