Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About lopezg273

  • Rank
  • Birthday November 17

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Motorcycles (Touring), XC Mountain Biking, Golf, Snow Skiing, Travel. IG: gregknowswhathewants

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1990 Toyota Dolphin / 1978 Toyota Keystone
  • Location
    MIA - LAX - PHX - SFO

Recent Profile Visitors

113 profile views
  1. I should have mentioned that I have ONLY the rears at 65PSI. The front I have at 55PSI. I also have Airlift Airbags in the rear, at around 50PSI. This seems to work fine, but I've been driving around the SFO and LAX areas (especially SFO) and I find that there are a lot of expansion joints which I find jarring. I'm also averaging around 15MPG. I think I'll try 50PSI on the fronts to soften up the expansion joints and lower the rears to 55PSI and see the effect on ride and MPG. And then play around depending on what happens. Thanks!
  2. I have an observation and a concern about my RV. 1) I installed a Tire Pressure Monitoring System in it, but only on the rear tires (it's a dually, obviously) because it only has 4 sensors. I set the tires to 65PSI as I think it the generally-accepted suggestion here, but I notice that as I drive it, the pressure increases. I set a low PSI parameter on the TPMS of 50PSI and a high of 75PSI, thinking that it would never get that high. I'm finding that my pressure, in what I consider to be normal conditions (judicious driving, 65-85 degree ambient temperature, 60-65MPH), the pressures quickly rise to 70PSI. And then, if with some warmer driving (85-95 degrees), they go to 75PSI and trigger my high-pressure alarm. I can't help but think that some higher temperatures (say like driving in Arizona in 100-105 degrees) would cause my tires to quickly exceed 80PSI and I consider that dangerous pressures. Or am I crazy? Thoughts? Of course, my concern is a blowout. 2) I'm having to fill up this "5-gallon" propane tank quite frequently. It gets down to 1/4 or just a hair less, but when I have it filled, they can never get more than 2 - 2.5 gallons in there. One guy told me that the actual capacity of this tank is actually closer to 3 - 3.5 gallons. It's a new tank, but it looks to be the exact same size as the one that was there, and fits the exact same spot. Question is - do I have a 3-gallon or a 5-gallon LP tank?
  3. Where's that moderator? - we need a yellow card here 🤣
  4. I have a '90 Dolphin, probably same as yours; I know it has the same drivetrain. I don't have a lot of crap in it, just what you would expect on an RV including a full tank of gas and water tank, and the steepest hill I climbed was on I-8 between El Centro and San Diego. My engine is tip-top shape, with 65K miles on it, and the climb I did on it goes from sea level to just over 4000' in about, oh, like 10 miles? Maybe less. It's pretty steep. My speed came down to about 35MPH at the slowest point (I think I was in 2nd gear at that point) but most of the way I was doing 45MPH in 3rd gear. I was being passed by everyone but I did pass some semis and a RAM truck pulling a 5th wheel. Hope this gives you a point of reference as to what to expect.
  5. I purchased the Power Acoustik CP-650 on eBay so if you search by that you can find it. It's around $168 now. I'm sure it's also available on Amazon. Here are a few things I learned, that might help you: 1. There are WIRELESS and WIRED Apple Carplay connections. The cheap units are WIRED which means when you step inside your vehicle the BT functions will work, but NOT Carplay. When you plug your iPhone via USB to the unit, THEN Carplay works and also charges your phone at the same time. If you want WIRELESS connection, at the time I purchased my unit (July, 2018) the only wireless Carplay units were from good brands (Alpine, Kenwood) but they were like $800, significantly more expensive. 2. Initially I could NOT get Carplay to work, I was very frustrated, and I was ready to send the unit back. I contacted Power Acoustik and they answered (they are in Southern California) BUT they just told me "well, you have a newer phone and some people experience issues connecting" (I have an iPhone X) and their advice was to return it. But because I don't know what I'm doing, and I also don't give up (I'm what you would call a "motivated idiot" - the most dangerous kind), I searched for a solution on the interwebs and just found that there is an obscure setting in iPhones in a section called "Screen Time" that you have to check, and I did, and the thing has worked flawlessly ever since. I've found that most people who have issues with tech are idiots like me, but they don't find solutions, they just write bad reviews (unjustly). 3. I recommend a professional install unless you're very good with electronics and have lots of time. Just adding a rearview camera to my Dolphin was worth the upgrade, but most cameras don't have long-enough cords (because they're meant for normal vehicles) and you have to work up a solution for the long cord and the mount. But once you get a rearview camera, you'll wonder how you never ran over someone without it! Plus, if you wire and aim it right, you can see how long the queue is behind you on a 2-lane uphill, haha. 4. Carplay is amazing. With the simple upgrade, you thrust your aging RV into the future. You can get turn-by-turn nav, Siri, it reads texts, allows you to answer by just dictating, you have an enormous amount of music available, rearview camera, etc.. etc... I'd even go a far as to say that if you have a Toyota RV and you DON'T have Carplay (or Android Auto), I'd go as far as to call you "crazy". 5. Lastly, with the CP-650 being a cheap unit AND it having a glossy screen (a touch-screen) and not matte, you do get reflections at some angles and the colors aren't what you'd call "amazing", but I had the same problems with my 2015 BMW and my 2017 Yaris, so, it is what it is. Oh, and just because a unit has Carplay, don't assume it has Android Auto, and vice-versa. So if you want Android Auto, this will not work, search for a unit which does have Android Auto.
  6. Thanks, I did not know it has a lockup converter so that alleviates my doubts about running it in OD mode at that speed. I think I'll do both, get a small tach and maybe put it on the a-pillar so it does not crowd the cockpit and also try to remain in OD. On a related/not related note I have a head unit on it with Apple Carplay which gives me a bunch of cool tech including Sat/Nav, Siri, BT Streaming, rearview camera, and all that jazz. I was looking/hoping for a Carplay-compatible app that would show engine management stuff (such as my RPM's), but mine not being OBD II, no dice. With this Airplay unit (which I bought on eBay for $175), fits perfectly in the Double-DIN dash and my '90 has more tech on it than my 2017 Yaris iA.
  7. My question is this - at what is the best speed to drive my '90 Toyota Dolphin V6 Automatic camper? Here's my dilemma: The V6 engine is buttery smooth, so I can't tell by ear what it's doing (or there's too much creaking, popping, whooshing noises coming from the house that I can't hear it) . But this is what I can gather happens: Start 1st gear - around 15 MPH, switch to 2nd gear - around 30 MPH, switch to 3rd gear - around 55-60MPH, overdrive. So far so good. But then, I get to a mild overpass and there is an uphill the size of an ant's back, and the speed drops PRECIPITOUSLY if I don't do anything with my right foot. Then, I think it goes back to 3rd gear. As soon as it goes to 3rd gear (or if I switch off the overdrive), then speed picks back up and actually goes UP, to like 65 MPH without me doing anything with my right foot. If I press, I know it will do 75 MPH. But I don't want to kill the engine or transmission (I don't think it has a transmission cooler). So, it seems like 55-65 is the sweet spot, and it's also where the transmission struggles deciding whether overdrive or 3rd gear is best. And I want to drive around 65, especially in Arizona where the interstate speed limit is 75 but everyone is driving 90-95 like they're going to collect an inheritance or their hair is on fire (or both). So the question is: Given that I want to drive 65, should I: a. Switch off the overdrive, stay in 3rd gear and drive up the RPM's and give my engine an early death? b. Leave the overdrive on, tone down the RPM's, and kill my transmission? c. Is there a better option? Please tell me, and thanks! d. Would I benefit from having a tachometer so I can decide what's best (I'm smarter than the Toyota computers, assuming) and if so, what type? And no, I don't want to swap a dash from a 4Runner or a fancier Toyota Truck, so don't even suggest that.
  8. Oh, dear! I noticed the description says: "It's a 2 door it runs but needs a jump first. Has a flat tire. Has a lost title. msg me for more info " I just about crap my pants laughing. I was, like, that's the least of it's problems!
  9. Mine was a project, I paid $2,000 for it. This one is a PROJECT, and (this is HUGE): if you can do most of the work YOURSELF, it may be worthwhile. This needs a ton of work. I think all these guys in this forum know that you must work on the thing yourself. I did some of the work on mine, and I also had someone else do some work. I also have a '90 Dolphin V6 and this is what I can tell you: - RV Repair specialists charge about $150 per hour. That is INSANE for what amounts to be just basic electricity, woodworking, mechanical work. That's more than I paid my specialized BMW dealer to work on my M3 (they charged $100 per hour and I thought that was crazy, but then again, M3's are like race cars for the street). So be prepared to $$$$PEND! - As if the labor rate wasn't bad, RV Specialists charge for EVERYTHING piecemeal. You want that light cover replaced, as well as the light bulb inside? They will ITEMIZE everything, so for that it will be like 15 minutes to "R&R cover", another 15 minutes to "R&R light bulb", plus the parts charge which is like (and I'm not joking here), 5X the price you can get on the internet for the exact same part. So you just paid $75 to replace something you could have done yourself in 5 minutes (15 if you're me, because I'm an idiot). The biggest scam? The $300 "inspection" charge, where they go through and charge you for pointing things out that you can see for yourself. They'll write down things like "it has rust on the hood" (no sh*t sherlock, I can see that!). You think they'll get in and really see what's not working and why. No dice. "Oh, you want us to tell you how much to fix the rust on the hood? That'll be another $150 for a "diagnosis fee"". Just make a list and keep that money in your pocket, thank you very much. - You can buy most of the "RV Portion" parts for your camper online, campingworld.com has a lot of stuff, also eBay, and sites people here recommend. I have a love/hate thing for Amazon so I don't buy sh*t there, so don't judge me - just think of the "greater good". For me, the most difficult part was figuring out what parts are called; it's hard to find stuff when you're searching for "thingy where garden hose connects to rv", or "frame for flip-up vent on rv roof", or "key for thingy where rv battery is".... stupid stuff like that. For the car portion, just go to Pep Boys, Advanced, O'Reilly's, etc... and find the parts you need, but be careful and not try to put, for example, REGULAR shocks on your RV, you have to get the specific RV ones (I said "RV", so I slapped myself for doing so), but that's how you find the parts. Some parts will be different, others won't, just be mindful of that. So, anywhere you call, go, park, anything, AVOID using the word "RV" at ALL COSTS. If you can remember this one thing, it will save you craploads of time, money, hassle. When you say the word "RV" people assume you're driving one of those quarter-million luxury buses with like 20 pullouts and gold-plated everything inside, and they'll charge you likewise. Instead, use words like "camper" (this one works out really well), or "truck" or something. And then visit shops that specialize in truck or off road repair or just independent shops. And always start by saying you have a "(fill in year here) Toyota Truck" and you need whatever. I put brand new airbags on my '90 Dolphin, I ordered the Air Lift system online (for about $200 less than the RV repair shop wanted), and then I got some estimates to remove the old kit and install the new one. The average quote was $600 to do this from RV shops. I went to a shop that specializes in lifted 4x4 trucks and they charged $300. Also, the RV shop wanted almost $2000 to put a head gasket on my '78, but I took it to a regular guy that that's all he does (head gaskets), and he charged me $800 P&L. So, never say "RV", do as much of the work yourself (it's pretty easy, this coming from me, and half the time I have no idea what I'm doing), make friends with Harbor Freight (you'll be using them a lot), remember that Home Depot, Lowe's, Walmart carries a lot of the same sh*t that RV parts places have so be sure and look there too, think of your Toyota as a Toyota and not a Sunrader, Dolphin, RV, or whatever and make others think that way too. One last note is that for the longest time I saw an ad for a "camper" just like mine ('78 Toyota) in the Phoenix craigslist and the ask was $10,900. It was on there for, like, 3 months. It's not there anymore, so the guy either sold it or gave up. It was in pretty good shape but definitely not pristine, so I have no idea what these things are worth, so if you can buy this for like $1000 at MOST (bring cash) and then spend some $5-6K you'll be in around $8K on it and you have to decide whether that's good or not. Getting it to your house will be half the fun! You'll need new tires straight away, no matter what. I'm also near Mexico and I speak Spanish so I'm planning to have a lot of the work (inside upholstery, carpeting, woodwork, some electrical, etc...) there, and the prices are about 1/3 of what I'm getting quoted in the US. That's probably not an option for most people, but I thought I'd just throw it there.
  10. There's this one: https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/tucson-toyota-sunrader-camper-rv/6895589536.html And this one: https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/tucson-1976-toyota-hilux-chinook-rv-pop/6891861490.html (but I think you didn't want a pop-top)
  11. I found this little sucker just randomly on Craigslist. Yes, it has foolies, and some parts are a bit hard to find, blah blah blah blah but I don't care. I'm fixing it up on my spare time, I've already put in brand new Ecovan tires, and had to do a head gasket on its 20R with 45K miles but right now it runs like a champ. The guy who did the head gasket job put in all the new stuff you would normally do (water pump, belts, etc...) and he was shocked he had to do one on a 20R because they're so dependable - thinks the previous owner was just careless and ran it hot. It's a 4-speed manual, no AC, etc... but since the cab is always under the bedroom, you don't really need the cabin AC. Mine's not for sale, but my advice to you is: - Autotempest doesn't work for sh*t, for some reason it doesn't really find stuff, especially weird stuff like this. I've done tests where I find a listing for something on Craigslist, and then I try Autotempest to see if it finds the listing, and it totally skips it. Don't trust it, you have to manually search. - Speaking of manually-searching, Craigslist has a lot of tools that can help you narrow down the years; if you're looking for an early RV, you would pick, for example, to only search for models "1975 to 1985" or something. That clears a lot of clutter. - Sometimes you can find them on eBay, but you'll pay A LOT more, because people who put them on eBay know that they're reaching a much wider market and so they want to get as much as possible for them; your best bet is to try different Craigslists, especially in the West so you find one that's not all rusted to hell. One caveat - I really don't know what I'm doing, so be aware and probably listen to Linda S, that guy Derek Up North or something, like, they know a lot more about these things. Bonne chance!
  12. Quick question - the speedometer on my RV ('89 Toyota V6 Truck Chassis) has been making a horrendous noise (a "woo-woo-woo" continuous noise; almost sounds like the engine is revving too much but it isn't) especially when it's cold out. It doesn't do it all the time, but since it's been getting really chilly (low 30's) it seems to have worsened. Also, when I get up to around 60MPH the speedometer hilariously jumps to like 80-85 MPH, and stays there for a bit, then comes back down to 60, in other words, it's erratic. Is it time to get a new speedometer cable or might it just be loose at the speedometer connection? Anyone?
  13. Thanks for all the info! I will stay off the ladder unless I REALLY need to go up there. The rack I'm talking about is just a u-shaped guard-like bar mounted to the roof, it runs from the AC, back, around the bathroom vent, and over to the other side. It's more like a guard; if you look at the picture of the RV you can see it up there on the back part of the roof. It looks factory-installed, so I don't know if it's just a guard or some luggage rack. And more importantly, if I can just remove it. It has a brand new converter some RV shop installed because the old one was dead, I'll have to look up the make & model but I recall it being made in Indiana... or maybe Ohio.
  14. Thanks so much for the info! I think I'll drop my pressures a bit for the better ride. The fridge is a Dometic RM2401 and like an idiot, I was just turning the switch between the "gas" and "electric" setting whilst looking at the instructions that are right there... Not noticing that in between there's an "off" setting. I turned it off now, so I guess I'll use it off when I'm driving around. I think the Innova monitor will work for the car battery because it plugs into the cigarette lighter, so I need something for the coach battery, but I get the general idea of what I should be looking for.
  • Create New...