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lopezg273

Toyota Advanced Member
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    36
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About lopezg273

  • Rank
    ShootingFishInABarrel
  • Birthday November 17

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.gregorylopez.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Motorcycles (Touring), XC Mountain Biking, Golf, Snow Skiing, Travel. IG: gregknowswhathewants

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1990 Toyota Dolphin / 1978 Toyota Keystone
  • Location
    MIA - LAX - PHX - SFO

Recent Profile Visitors

156 profile views
  1. I just keep a high pressure bike pump like this one: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Floornado-750-High-Pressure-Floor-Pump-With-Gauge/244813275 I got it from a Walmart for like $17 and I top off the pressure on the airbags every 2-3 weeks, it just takes a few pumps and the pressure gauge is very accurate. Having an onboard compressor really is unnecessary. You need the high pressure bike pump; I initially purchased a regular pressure pump and quickly blew it out topping off the air in my tires. The high pressure one with the thinner cylinder works much better, and as a bonus you can use it to top up pressure on your tires and bikes, and whatnot.
  2. I just installed these KYB's on my Dolphin and I'm happy with them. Doing an empirical study (installing the $300 Bilsteins and then installing the $150 KYB's and comparing them long-term) is just too expensive, so my vote is for the KYB.
  3. I'm thinking about removing the visible floor carpet in my '90 Dolphin, and just painting the floor or adding some stick-on tile. My question to you in doing what you did is: What did this do to the noise level whilst driving? I think the OP was worried about that as well, in relation to removing the carpet.
  4. I hate that I'm giving you this advice because I generally don't like to go to RV repair places; they are EXPENSIVE, but in this case... I had my 1990 Dolphin worked on, and my light fixture/grab handle looks exactly like yours and all I needed was the light lens (not the entire thing). It's just a cover that snaps on. The RV place got me one for $12, I don't know where they got it, and then wanted to charge .25 hours to "install it" (pop it in in one second). I'm sure you can just have them order it for you, so maybe that's an option..? Just call an RV place nearby?
  5. I also got those for my '90 Dolphin - they are a bit cheaper on eBay and the item is the same. I got them from these guys: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Lift-57113-LoadLifter-5000-for-1986-1994-Toyota-Motorhome-Micro-Mini/141980652746?epid=210179477&hash=item210eb4d4ca:g:qI8AAOxyfDZSZ-XB
  6. I have a '90 Dolphin V6, 21' (I think), and I get 14-15 MPG on a windy, hilly day and close to 18 MPG on a good day but I also have a 1978 16' Keystone that I'm working on and so I am interested in your experience with your '79 Champion. So, here are a couple of questions, if you don't mind: 1) I want to keep mine as original as possible, but I am seriously considering adding a Weber. How much was it and did you install it yourself? Is yours a manual, and if so, is it a 4-speed or 5-speed? What is the slowest speed you did, and what gear, on the steepest hill? (asking because I'm out west and the Rocky Mountains and the high winds of Utah and Wyoming will be the test of fire for mine) 2) Do you have a 1978 Chassis (four headlights) or a 1979 Chassis (two headlights)? Do you have the 20R engine? Thanks for any feedback.
  7. It's probably a Mexican truck. We see these, and the Nissan Frontier come across from Mexico quite a bit. In Mexico, both of these (especially the Nissan) are used a lot as delivery vehicles so many of them are have flat beds, cooler boxes, etc... Mexico has not had the Tacoma, only Hilux, and they have had the Frontier (AKA Navara) new body style for a few years. That style is coming to the US in the 2020 Frontier.
  8. https://prescott.craigslist.org/pts/d/sedona-toyota-wheels-for-upgraded-one/6894744307.html Or try the nearest Craigslist to you. That's an option. Good luck!
  9. I have a similar RV (same chassis, different year, same leaf spring configuration, airbags installed). It's a non-issue. That's my vote.
  10. I searched but could not find an answer. Is 85-octane regular OK to use on my RV? I just got into Utah and Colorado and noticed that the octane ratings are: 85-regular, 87-midgrade, 91-premium as opposed to 87-regular, 89-midgrade, 91-premium that I have seen everywhere else. I'm afraid of damaging my engine due to knocking. I also cannot understand why 85-octane would be available on these states where mountain passes, high winds, etc... are a norm, I would think that the opposite would be true, that they would offer higher-octane rather than lower-octane to cope with these conditions, or am I just crazy thinking it doesn't make sense? Related (but maybe unrelated), I've been keeping a log of my mileage (1990 Dolphin 3.0V6 Automatic) and with mostly highway driving and some in-National-Park-and-small-town driving I've done a best of 17.3MPG and worst of 15.5MPG, and this includes going over the Rockies into Denver (40MPH in 2nd gear on the steepest parts but then coasting most of the way down). But, on flat level ground I stay around 60MPH. Would using 85-octane lower my MPG also, as well as cause knocking? Anyone?
  11. When you say "core", are you referring to a "heater core"? or a new engine altogether? Basically, what 2-3 mechanics told me (before having the head gasket done I got several opinions) is that if your engine idles until infinity with no overheating issues, but then when you put it under a load and the temperature starts inching up, and you can't make it stop, then the head gasket is bad. That's exactly what my 20R did. It would idle forever with no issue, but upon driving, the temp would just start inching up and up. I'm pretty well versed on mechanical things and I understand the relationship a water pump, radiator, old hoses, thermostat, etc.. have on cooling, but I cannot understand how a seemingly good head gasket makes an engine overheat, but for mine, that was the solution. Good luck!
  12. I had the same thing happen with my 78 Toyota Keystone with the 20R engine, which is the predecessor to the 22R. Some years ago, my 1970 Ford F150 360-V8 had similar symptoms. On the '78 Toyota I did the same thing: New radiator, new hoses, thermostat, water pump, radiator flush, everything. The fix? A blown head gasket. Also on the F150. We didn't think it was because there was no interchange of fluids in the motor (oil with coolant or vice-versa), and no outwardly signs of anything, no leaks, etc... Sorry to say, but it sounds like a head gasket. Though rare on these, it does happen. My suggestion is that if you know of a shop who deals exclusively on engines take it to them and get their opinion. Toyotas usually run cool when they are running fine, even under a load, so don't get complacent thinking that if you just remain below the red mark you're fine, you should never get that high a reading.
  13. I have a 1990 Dolphin on a Toyota V6 chassis. I installed these: https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/57113/. I don't know specific differences between the Dolphin and Odyssey but since they're the same chassis, I'm pretty sure they will fit. I bought these on eBay (search for "airlift 57113") and they are about $275 - $300 including shipping. If you take them to an RV place to get them installed, they might charge $500 - $600 but if you have a suspension shop install them, they'll charge less, probably $200 - $300. Your RV probably has airbags in it already, and it's possible they are thinner, but regardless, these should fit, but plan on paying an extra $100 to have the old ones taken out. Hope this info helps.
  14. I should have mentioned that I have ONLY the rears at 65PSI. The front I have at 55PSI. I also have Airlift Airbags in the rear, at around 50PSI. This seems to work fine, but I've been driving around the SFO and LAX areas (especially SFO) and I find that there are a lot of expansion joints which I find jarring. I'm also averaging around 15MPG. I think I'll try 50PSI on the fronts to soften up the expansion joints and lower the rears to 55PSI and see the effect on ride and MPG. And then play around depending on what happens. Thanks!
  15. I have an observation and a concern about my RV. 1) I installed a Tire Pressure Monitoring System in it, but only on the rear tires (it's a dually, obviously) because it only has 4 sensors. I set the tires to 65PSI as I think it the generally-accepted suggestion here, but I notice that as I drive it, the pressure increases. I set a low PSI parameter on the TPMS of 50PSI and a high of 75PSI, thinking that it would never get that high. I'm finding that my pressure, in what I consider to be normal conditions (judicious driving, 65-85 degree ambient temperature, 60-65MPH), the pressures quickly rise to 70PSI. And then, if with some warmer driving (85-95 degrees), they go to 75PSI and trigger my high-pressure alarm. I can't help but think that some higher temperatures (say like driving in Arizona in 100-105 degrees) would cause my tires to quickly exceed 80PSI and I consider that dangerous pressures. Or am I crazy? Thoughts? Of course, my concern is a blowout. 2) I'm having to fill up this "5-gallon" propane tank quite frequently. It gets down to 1/4 or just a hair less, but when I have it filled, they can never get more than 2 - 2.5 gallons in there. One guy told me that the actual capacity of this tank is actually closer to 3 - 3.5 gallons. It's a new tank, but it looks to be the exact same size as the one that was there, and fits the exact same spot. Question is - do I have a 3-gallon or a 5-gallon LP tank?
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