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samsterid

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  1. Costing about $500, Girard makes a tankless water heater that drops into the existing opening for your 6 gal. water heater. Vented to the outside and does a good job once you get used to its quirks, according to the reviews I've read. https://www.girardgroupcompanies.com/product-details/gswh-2-tankless-water-heater-47 Suburban makes one too for about $600? Probably a better unit than the Girard, but at 20" deep hard to fit in our 1986 Dolphin: https://www.airxcel.com/rv/suburban/water-heaters/suburban-iw60-on-demand-water-heater Sam
  2. @SSBreeze Some good mounting options there, but no matter how good the 3M VHB tape, the underlying aluminum on our Dolphin is only 1/32" thick, just floating there, not attached to the plywood. It might work, but I think I'll stick to screws on the edge - no problem for me caulking around the screw heads.
  3. Pretty ambitious plan there Brian - hope you post as you go along. Meanwhile, I have switched to 1-5/8 inch aluminum Struts to support the panels - stronger and lighter than my second choice above. But I am wondering if there is much difference in the two approaches below? Mock up:
  4. Thanks for your thoughts Brian. On the other hand, maybe some flexing of the channel supports while driving over bumps would be good? I think I will do a test mount then a test drive before I "nail it down". The roof does look pretty "saggy" from the top, but there are no signs of my Ceiling sagging from the inside of the camper. And even though the roof has leaked and left some water stains on the ceiling, I saw no signs of dry-rot or even mildew when I examined the first layer of plywood just under the top layer of aluminum. Actually, once the roof is ever walked on, I don't see how it could be anything other than saggy. (See my recent post Roof vent offset strips/shims necessary? - which I didn't explain very well) Plus I will be coating with the Liquid Roof EPDM, which the manufacturer claims "can take standing water 365 days a year . . ." Fabricating trusses is beyond my skill set - would love to see how you do that! Sam
  5. Never mind all that below - did not know they make Galvanized channel for conduit - seems perfect for solar panels . . . I will post back when I get the panels mounted. We are in the middle of our re-roofing job, and I want to make a plan for attaching solar panels to our 1986 Dolphin. Discovered the major roof area is only two layers of 1/4 inch or so plywood with insulation sandwiched in between. Not gonna screw the solar panels to that! We have removed the two heavy steel L channels that were screwed down at the outside edges and used to support an air conditioner. So I'm thinking that mounting concept should also work for solar panels. The pipe in the picture below is Intermediate conduit - heavier duty than EMT, but not as heavy as galvanized plumbing pipe. I think the flange attachment idea would work pretty well, but kinda hard to get the length measurements correct. Or I could just use some pressure treated lumber and a attach the pipe with two conduit straps at each end? (the strap in the picture is not the correct size . . .) I'm even wondering if the lighter duty EMT might be just fine - the panels only weigh 26 pounds each. Thanks for any thoughts . . . Sam
  6. Re-roofing our 1986 Dolphin with EPDM liquid roof soon. We removed all vents and noticed there are 4 extra strips or shims made of 1.5 inch x 5/8 thick plywood on top of each support where the vents mount. So the vents end up being installed about 3/4 of an inch above the plywood level of the roof. Does anyone know why? Is it so water drains away from the vents? A "screw receiver" for mounting? It makes walking on the roof seem pretty dicey - all that flexing of the aluminum between the vents. Plus puddles during rain are the norm between vents after a while. Is there something missing from our roof structure between the vents and sidewalls? Or should the vent strips not be there? Thanks for any help . . . Sam
  7. I know there are a few here who have succeeded with re-coating their RV roof with EPDM Liquid Roof. I have a 1986 Dolphin and just started doing the prep work before priming the roof. I have removed all old vents from my roof so I can install new vents and fans. I'm thinking it would be a lot easier to coat the roof without any vents in the way. If I coat the roof first with EPDM liquid roof, will the standard butyl tape installed for each new vent adhere to the fresh EPDM? Or should I install the vents after priming, but before applying the liquid roof? Thanks for any help . . . Sam
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