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WenSun

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About WenSun

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1984 Toyota Sunrader

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  1. I did pull out the shroud on the vent and I found and replaced the A/C line back to the panel with a new 12G wire. Based on what some of the others wrote though, it sounds like it is more common to install a fan as opposed to A/C the fans just tie unto 12V. I'm still working out the kinks on panel upgrade choices and A/C vs. fan decisions...
  2. I have not yet done research on the AC units--Do the new units no longer utilize the 12/14G wiring?
  3. Wow--You certainly have your work cut out for you, but it's nice to see another female on the board giving it a go! Good luck and look forward to watching your success...
  4. In my research, I read somewhere that Sunraders came “pre-wired” at the front air vent, as A/C was an option at purchase. Sure enough, upon tracing of wires and removal of the internal air vent cover towards the front of the rv, I found the stub of the 14g wire that I read about! It did not have a breaker in the panel, but was grounded to the bus with a separate glass breaker outside the box in the seat area. I ran a new wire back to the panel for our future install of a MaxxAir unit and am upgrading the panel soon to support it, and the new appliances. You may want to see if this is the same in your vehicle.
  5. Can anyone with knowledge of both vehicles tell me whether the cushions off of my ‘84 Sunrader would fit a ‘92 Dolphin configuration? I’ve got a bunch of cushions needing a good home!
  6. Hi Aaron— I recently posted about the making and replacement of my wraparound windows. If you look toward the bottom of my post, you will see a couple of folks chimed in on the merits of a new lexan with a scratch-resistant coating. Link is in there and sounds like a great idea—I would have gone with lexan had I not been worried about scratching and fading with the regular kind. It wouldn’t be difficult to cut the sheet with a jigsaw with a scroll saw blade attached, and lexan is easy to bend as opposed to plexi. Info for gaskets and tools are up on my post or Linda has posted links to all that. Give it a try and contact for advice or info and let us know how it turns out!
  7. @Derek up North @hunkaman Reading the description: “Due to its mar-resistant coating, this product cannot be cold-formed and is intended for flat applications only.” “performs extremely well for other flat applications such as view windows and machine guards in harsh chemical environments.” It sounds great but is it still heat moldeable and without losing its coating benefits? Anyone know the price point in comparison to plexiglass?
  8. Finally getting to post the completed window pics. Must say that it was harder than I anticipated, requiring my recruitment of another pair of hands and borrowing some handy glass holding tools to use as suction for pressure and/or pulling at times—I had to start over a few times because it kept slipping back out without another person to help. Also invested in a plastic tool (see the blue tool) to work the locking gasket and another tool to set the key. I think they don’t look too shabby!
  9. My first consideration was actually using Lexan, but after researching the pros and cons, opted for plexiglass. Lexan is break-resistant and therefore amazingly flexible to mold and I would have bent the windows myself if I had used it but it is not scratch resistant and tends to fade in sunlight. Small aircraft will use plexiglass in the front and Lexan for side windows and doors. Panels were about US$100 and you could get 4 windows out of a panel if you were careful... The mold and bending—another $100. Saved $US500 minus gas to and fro. If you can reuse your gasket—great, but the California windows for $700 didn’t include gaskets either...
  10. @Derek up North Seals came from a company called Grainger www.grainger.com. They are Trim-Lok gaskets and come in two parts—the locking gasket and the key, which is a separate purchase. Item #s 10G547 and 10G561 respectively. The customer service was great—we sent pics of our gasket and measurements and they sent samples to confirm. It comes in different lengths—We bought 25ft. As for the windows, we purchased the plexiglass sheets (bought extra to make an extra set and for possible breakage) and measured and made patterns ourselves from the originals. We cut them out with a scroll saw blade on a jigsaw and used a plywood overlay with clamps for stability and to avoid cracks. We then took these cut windows to a thermoplastic company here in North Carolina and convinced them to bend them for us with their equipment for a fee—came out great—looks like a perfect fit! I can see if they are willing to make more now that they’ve done it? We tried to order windows from another company in California, but they wanted $700 for the two windows with shipping! We had to be creative...
  11. Just got the new overcab wraparound windows—gray tinted plexiglass! I plan to install them tomorrow with the new trim we ordered and the new sealant. Any tips, tricks, suggestions for an easier/better/less frustration-filled day would be appreciated! Wish me luck!
  12. @Maineah @DanAatTheCape OK—After more research, I passed on the AFCI/GFCIs—thanks. I decided to replace all the #14 and the #12 wire from the breaker panel with #12–I know it’s overkill but figured I’d plan for any future growth and a new panel. I ran #12 from the panel for the shore line and bought a new receptacle. I ran new wire to the kitchen area and added a 20A GFCI in a new waterproof box. From there, I ran wire to the upper cab area on both sides and there is where I am using the speed box—they come in both 15 and 20A and fit 1/2” spaces—no raised boxes. On the opposite side, I followed a #12 wire with an exposed 20A glass fuse connected to a #14 wire–turned out to be a pre-installed A/C line. I replaced it with #12 up to the vent cutout. It was grounded in the panel, but can I add a breaker for it in the box, given the empty spot? I ran new line to the outlet above the refrigerator to a 20A in a fire-rated box and a new GFCI outlet outside in a waterproof box for the refrigerator. Not sure if the GFCI for the refrigerator is a mistake in that it could trip unbeknownst to those traveling... in the panel pics, I put all the lines exactly where they were initially, but would like some advice on whether I can add in that breaker on that one empty spot. Recommendations on panel upgrades???
  13. Linda— Thanks for the encouragement! Did I say it’s not for the purist??? It certainly has been a labor of love (hate?) Dry-fitting appliances and sink right now and running new electrical lines today. As for the carpet, lots of elbow grease and a 5-in-1 and pliers for all the staples! Will post pics of the door area and new trim surround once complete.
  14. Lol! Good eye, Derek! Did I say I was a newbie??? OK—pics! We added a new side panel to the upper and lower cabinets, and lined the upper cabinets with padded gray vinyl in lieu of carpeting... We made a new internal cutout panel fabricated from a cabinet cover panel, new countertop, cabinet doors, handles, drawers, faucet—we will be utilizing the original sink and the original appliances for now—your budget mileage may vary IKEA and their As Is section has become our best friend of late!
  15. Maineah— Thanks for the reply. Yes, the AFCIs do cause sticker shock, but since I have read about so many concerns with fires in RVs, I was wondering if it would be worthwhile, while balancing the nuisance tripping. I will opt for a regular GFCIs. #12 wire is what was there, so replaced like with like, but just wanted to add on two more outlets up on the bed area after the GFCI in the kitchen area—saw the speed boxes but hadn’t considered they would not accept #12 wire—I will check before ordering—thanks. I was trying to find a solution to adding outlets without surface-mounting the boxes. If anyone has done so in the upper cab, I would love to see your results!
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