jetalkington

Thanks. It was a long row to hoe but worth it. I know what I have and it handles and drives nice. So far the batteries have held up good.

Well, I finished my rehab. Here are some links to rehab photos and the finished product. A lot of work. I like how it came out. Rehab photos: Rehab Finished product: https://photos.app.goo.gl/zkgYiRQvrjPkekyi7 I also created hatch in the floor to access the fuel tank, as others here suggested from one of the holes in the floor.

Well, I have this figured out. My cousin owes an insulation company. So, I will have him spray foam it. R7 for an inch. My furring strips are 3/4 so about 5.3 on walls. I took out the metal cross beams and ripped some cedar to 1" and put them back. So, I will have r7 on ceiling.

My plan is to use this in the winter for photography and I suspect I will need propane for heat. With it being a fixed tank you can't just run out and get more. I do have an idea to add an extend-a- stay on my existing tank to do just that. I am mostly concerned with cold weather. and propane.

I didn't realize I have not posted any updates out here on my rebuild. I have been busy with selling my business and trying to retire I have not been doing much online except looking at FB. I got the outside body work done and painted. I started on the inside by getting rid of holes I won't be using. I am putting in a 12v fridge. So, I am getting rid of the top vent. I will be going to lithium batteries and am closing up the rear battery hole. I am starting on the rear hole as that is behind a box and since it is my first time doing fiberglass I suspect it may not look the best. I screwed in a plywood piece covered in plastic a s my backer and layed up some stranded fiberglass mat on the inside. I put three layers in. Once dried I layed chopped strand on the outside. Then mixed up some Qcell epoxy thickener and used it like bondo on the outside. Took me four tries and a new sander to get it smooth. Then I used a combination of paints Ford Wimberly, GM Dark white to try and match the color. Next the vent and taking out all the windows to reframe them

Thanks Fred. Your right, of course. With a 26 gallon FW tank and technically 44 gallons of holding tank, I would run out of fresh water long before I had to worry about the tank. Plus I do not take 30 minute showers in my RV shower. My wife and I both take RV showers. Wet and turn off the water while washing, then rinse. I was not really thinking it through. On a water hook up would be the only time I could possibly over flow and if I was hooked up to water I would be in a park and likely use their toilets the most. It is really not a major concern. So when they go back it will be plumbed to the Black water tank. With it hooked up to the black water I can actually spend more time boondocking. I am also going to leave out that shower vent. If someone is draining the sink while someone is in the shower it would also have slowed it down as the sink drain and vent are in the same pipe. The shower will enter the black water tank from the top and be able to use the regular vent. Once I thought through the setup I saw why the shower vent was there. It is/was a correct setup. I think the move will make it a lot better, overall. Thanks for taking the time.

That would be a crappy thing to happen. I guess once I realized my Black water was getting full I would have to pay closer attention to it or dump it. I wish there was a way to put alarms on holding tanks. I use my toilet mostly for a late night bladder dumps and then only if it cold. A 30 gallon tank is really big. I am still thinking it through.

I like the idea that the shower water enters the black water with all the soaps and shampoos. Your thinking of the rinsing with all those soaps would do a good job of cleaning out the black water tank. I wish I knew more about plumbing and that extra vent. It is a hole through the floor I would like to eliminate. Usually they are there to allow someplace for the air to go when draining. But these tanks are not huge and have vents on the other end of the tank. Literally 3 feet away. Thanks for feed back.

I just dropped my water tanks, to work on the floor above, and install my new see level gauges. I noticed something odd to me. Their sizes. My freshwater is 26 gallons, grey is 14 gallons, and the black is 30 gallons. This looks backward on the grey and black. They are from Ronco Plastics and the sizes are stamped on the outside. My shower & sink are plumbed into the grey water and the black only has the toilet. So, for those of you with more experience on these, have you ever seen the shower plumbed into the black water tank? I am considering doing so when I re-install them. That, or maybe increasing the size of the grey water. I would think the grey water should be the larger of the two. The shower also has it own interior vent and I don't think it needs it. The tank is vented out the roof on the other end Any feedback would be appreciated.

Looks really great Jay. I like the indirect lighting and the little shelf. The natural wood is a good look. The state allowed us to open back up so I am back to 13 & 14 hour days. So, it looks like fall before I get much more done, unless I squeeze in a little here and there.

Probably low point drains. Go inside and find the spot where they are draining from and see if there is a valve on them to shut them off. Mine had a small brass valve on them. Close the valve. They are used when you winterize the camper to make sure all the water is out of the lines. I took mine out, because I blow out my line with air and then pump RV antifreeze in.

I think the black water tanks can depend upon what has happened to them in the life of the Sunrader. I have read were they were put in from the top. Which if true would mean cutting and fabricate a new holder. Mine has been taken out at some point. I have two bars across the bottom. It looks to me I unbolt them and it will come out. Your would likely be different. Best for someone else to chime in that has seen it done

Sorry to hear of your issues Rick. I hope you get them worked out in time for summer fun. I worked on vehicles for years and our minimum charge was 30 minutes. Guys around here are earning upwards of $80-$100 an hour. That would be $40-50 dollars to do simple greasing. It is getting crazy. Fortunately that kind of stuff is simple with a can of white lithium grease. Good luck. I know you didn't need any more on your plate. Your right buying a Sunrader is not for the feint of heart.

I would keep the test light connected to ground and test each wire coming from the floor. Do them one at a time. Turn on your turn signal and find the wire that flashes the test light like a turn signal. Then connect it to the wire coming from the amber section of your new light. Then do each wire testing as you go. Brake light have some one step on the brake pedal and find the wire that lights up. Connect each wire immediately to the light before moving on or tape and label them so you do not get confused. Do the same with the reverse. Set the emergency brake and put the Sunrader in reverse and find the wire that has power. Once you find them all and connect them you should be done.