Gulfstream Greg

Here is a different one that might work better because it can be located outside. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5Km-Outdoor-USB-Wifi-Adapter-150Mbps-High-Power-Wall-Mounting-Wireless-Antenna/112584455322?epid=5007005177&hash=item1a368e749a:g:oWAAAOSwZuRZ0FNf

Insert diodes in each circuit. The diode will only allow the current to flow in one direction. Size the diodes for the camera say at least 2 amps. If you do the optional manual reverse lights on then the diode needs to be bigger to handle the amperage the reverse lights need. My preference for the manual rev light circuit is some type of flashing led to let you know they are on.

What most do is just change the existing wiring that was originally for AC at the breaker panel, moving the wiring from the 120vac side to the 12vdc. Usually because changing out the wiring is impossible. As for a fan I just recently installed a Maxxair plus. It has a remote control which is really great. Found it on sale at eTrailer a few months back. http://www.maxxair.com/products/maxxfan/maxxfan_standard_remote.php

Someone mentioned Dicor Lap Sealant, Great stuff highly recommended. For small cracks in the original seam sealant I first use a small wire brush to clean the crack or area where I want to seal then blow it out with compressed air. I then work Dicor into the crack and surrounding sides with a small putty knife made from a stick then run a bead of dicor on top of that making sure to lap on each side of the crack etc.. Working it in with the putty stick assures a good bond. Another sealant I use sometimes is Lexel. It will stick even to wet surfaces. It is a bit more difficult to work with. If you get it on your hands soap and water will not take it off. I found that WD40 will dissolve it then use soap and water. Nore: If someone has previously used silicone sealant you may have to do some serious cleaning removal of the silicon before applying dicor or lexel. NEVER, I SAY NEVER use silicone to seal up your roof.

This is a little late but when we bought our 89 v6 it had a aftermarket AC system installed but the compressor was missing. I found all this out the hard way after buying a Toyota compressor and finding out it would not bolt up to the bracket or existing hoses. So I visited some junk yards and made it a Toyota AC system. Except that I got the mounting bracket out of a 4-runner. And so my compressor did not line up with the pulleys. Turns out the 4-runner compressor is bigger because the inside of a 4-runner is bigger, needs more cooling capacity. Took my compressor back and got the 4-runner one. Cooled really well! Another note, I believe the 4 cyl trucks shut down the AC when the engine is below a certain idle. No idea if the V6 systems do the same shut down at low idle.

The new air conditioners are and use 120 Volts A/C (shore power). Most likely if you just have a vent that cranks open the wiring is probably there for 120VAC. You will have to pull out the interior shroud of the vent and look for the wiring. If the wiring is there it may or may not be connected at the breaker panel. The wires were sometimes left disconnected if no AC unit was installed.

Contact this guy, he probably has them http://www.rvdoctorgeorge.com/

Your welcome and glad to see your still kickin"!

My concern would be the strength of the extended frame where it is connected to the truck frame. 1500 lbs yanking around is really going to amplify at the ext to truck connection. How many feet from the truck frame to the hitch? Another factor is how much does your rig weigh when you have it loaded for a trip?

If you have already replaced the sensor and not fixed the issue you need to build an adapter and read the pressure where the sensor is. I do not know if there is another port on the V6 where you can also tap into. Anyone know what min oil press is supposed to be? I agree with everyone else on what it could be. If you have excessive bearing clearance then that rebuild was done wrong or broke in wrong. Here is another question for the V6 guru's. Does the V6 oil pump have a bypass valve?

The valve may leak at the shaft of the knob. The packing there can get bad. You really need to get some leak detector solution and verify where and if there are any leaks. I do not believe you actually need a cap where the old one came off. If it is leaking there you need a new valve. I had to replace the valve on our 1990 tank as it was leaking at the shaft and could not be repaired. The eye opener was that the valve was no longer available. I luckily found one, and I say again - ONE. There should be a name and model on yours. If you cannot locate a valve perhaps a propane company or RV shop can suggest the correct replacement or parts that will be safe. Anyhow the valve should never have gas hissing out of it in any knob position!

When we owned a 18ft sunrader it had A/C on the roof. We removed it, installed a fan vent by rewiring / moving the 120VAC in the breaker panel to a 12vdc source.

A bullseye level will be used to get your rig level for operating the refrigerator. Initially place it in the center of your refrigerator freezer tray and get it level by using leveling blocks under your wheels. Once you have it level find a spot on a counter that matches the same as the freezer tray. That way you don't have to keep opening the refer door to get level.

Nice! A note for everyone - make sure if you use replacement hoses that the rubber is rated for gasoline.

You can buy surface wire channel molding from home depot and lowes https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=wire+chase

Ebay

Bullseye level for the refridgerator

Here is the manual and schematics. The 6300's I replaced did not have a fan and used glass barrel fuses 6300_series.pdf

Some LED lighting uses a electronic driver to power the LED. AC voltage could damage the electronics. They will work fine until they die. I have custom LED's that use a pulse width modulator to dim the lights. No AC allowed. If I remember correctly I measured 6 volts ac on my 6300 12 v dc coach side circuit. I do not believe you need the battery to run the heater when on shore power using the old solenoid 6300's but remember that the 6300's disconnect the battery automatically so no need to do that manually. As an option for the 6300 the charger can be disconnected from the relay so that it does not connect to the battery or it is possible to rewire the solenoid to add and use a smart charger instead of the 6300's charger. I may have missed where your switch is for disconnecting and connecting your battery. This is advice for all. It is advised to use a dedicated battery disconnect switch away from your battery. Lead acid batteries produce explosive gasses that tend to hover around the battery during discharge and charging. The reason for vented battery boxes. One little spark and you become unhappy really fast. I have a friend who had a battery explode in his face. Can not remember if it was from using jumper cables or something else, just that there was a spark and boom. He was lucky, only got a little acid in the eyes but acid was everywhere else. You still though have not said what model your converter is. Newer converters are 100% OK to leave the battery connected. With the older 6300 the 6300 charger is the problem. Besides leds, motors such as your water pump, stove vent fan, ceiling vent fans if you have one all run cooler and more efficiently with no ac on the line. Heater control boards are electronic (unless you lite yours with a match) for ignition and gas flow. I have no idea if they have any filtering to keep out the ac. I have replaced a few, ac on the line or just that it failed?

Maybe missing a circuit. If you have the diode type isolators - for Toyotas need to have 4 terminals. 3 large for Bat1, Bat2, Alternator output and #4 is the exciter circuit which connects to a 12 hot when ignition is in run position. Without that exciter circuit no output with a diode isolator. The alternator needs to see 12vdc on its output terminal before it will produce output and the exciter circuit gives the output terminal that 12volts. If you have a 4 wire isolator check that #4 the exciter circuit has 12 volts when the ignition is on. The relay type isolators do not need the exciter wire as the battery is connected to the alternator directly and the solenoid actually connects the batteries in parallel when the ignition is in the run position. There is another type called the seperator. I installed one after my diode type failed and blew up my alternator. Here is a link for comparison http://info.waytekwire.com/blog/battery-isolators-vs.-separators-whats-the-difference The seperator I had was high tech. Only connected when the coach battery needed a charge and had a everything is OK led that installed on the dash. I have no idea how to troubleshoot a seperator.

What is the brand and model of your converter? The original 6300 converters already disconnect the battery from the coach 12v circuit and switch the battery to the charger circuit via a large relay when plugged into shore power but the 6300 battery charger is junk. Modern converters leave the battery connected and (most) use a smart charger for battery maintenance. In ether case you really don't need to disconnect the battery for when occasionally connected to shore power. But again, the original 6300 built in charger is junk and If you are on shore power for long periods of time like a week the battery can get over charged. Also with the 6300 the large switching relays can get dirty and cause problems such as voltage drops on the coach and charger circuits etc. You might not ever use the cig lighter socket but what about led lighting. The original 6300 converters use a half wave rectifier to convert the ac to dc. Modern converters use a full wave rectifier and additional filtering to create pure dc voltage. Some led's are ok with some ac voltage, some are not.

Be aware that the old converters can output AC voltage on the 12 volt DC side. So if you run any electronics (12vdc led lighting, phone charger etc) off say a cig lighter socket or other coach 12vdc source it might eventually be bad for the device. To verify take a multi tester, set it to AC voltage and test a 12VDC outlet or source.

Besides everything else I am not I am a certified locksmith. Most compartment door locks are what is called cam disk tumbler type. If a key will fit into the keyway it has a high chance of opening the lock. The tolerances as compared to a pin tumbler type lock just are not there. Even if the key will not just open the lock many times just moving the key in and out or just getting crazy with it will open it. They are really easy to pick open. Many of the older coach door key locks are also disk tumbler. For the coach door, installing a deadbolt is a necessity. There are deadbolts made specifically for rv doors. For storage and access doors there are cam tubular pin replacements available. For referance here is a link to a tubular cam lock https://www.easykeys.com/1551_CCL_C-510_Camlock.aspx

I missed that. No smogging required here in Oregon, would be a great project. Having had a Sunrader 4x4 and knowing some of the 4x4 capabilities with a Sunrader coach I have some suggestions. The minimal coach build you could do and be happy, the biggest FI motor you can drop in, a manual 5 speed, 4/11 gears with an overdrive and a winch when you make a mistake, and a BIG gas tank.

Too far for me to go see https://bend.craigslist.org/rvs/d/1980-4x4-toyota-sunrader-18-ft/6574331114.html