Gulfstream Greg

The motors use oilite bearings. They are factory impregnated with oil and the oil gets used up after some time. Friction heat pulls the oil out of the bearing towards the shaft that's why it gets quiet after a while. You can not replace that oil. Not sure that adding oil will work long term. Usually a motor replacement is in order.

Mine had the same symptoms, had to put it on the bench for testing in order to find out the spark gap was too wide. Electricity will find the shortest path to ground so if it is not sparking at the gap it could be sparking somewhere else outside the fire chamber. If the wire gets a crack in the insulation this could happen. The board senses flame with the spark wire. If the wire is broken somewhere or the coil is shorted on the board the electronics will not see flame and try to relight. Note the gasket died when I pulled the view port hatch off. It took a few tries to get the correct. The gasket is important to keep those bad gasses out of the heated air!

Here is the combo I would like (Dreaming of course) https://phoenixpopup.com/

That is really cool. Where did you get it?

Do you own a multi tester? And take a pick of the wires connecting to your existing lights, figure out what wire does what and wire accordingly to the new lights. Mark each wire with some painters tape numbering each wire then use the auto lamps pdf Derek supplied for guidance with the labels transfering your numbers to the pdf schematic. Post some pics of the new and old. Old lights are still connected to the Toyota? If not then you may need to use the multi tester to figure out what wire does what.

I think I would get a test kit to verify it is not black mold. Just about everyone sells test kits. Google for some mold images and see what yours resembles. Black mold can come in a variety of colors.

I agree with WME

I think some horsepower under the hood, maybe even a Diesel, king or crew cab, a solid front axle, 5 speed manual, manual transfer case, manual locking hubs, full floating rear axle (bad deal when you break an axle in the boonies), 1 or 2 inch lift, 31 or 32 inch tires and gear ratio to accommodate the bigger tires, bigger fuel tank, dual batteries. Don't be stuck on Toyota!

Not so sure about using bubble wrap. Check this out https://www.azdelonboard.com/

I have always been under the impression that panels should be wired in series for better charge efficiency. Then select the correct controller for the voltage supplied from the in-series panels. An expert I am not, so anyone have the info to fill in the blanks? Some panel/controller 101?

Yes and we invited the fire dept for the second one!

When we lived in Boulder Creek, two years in a row on new years eve we had a flue fire.

Yes we are doing fine, we moved to Oregon near Salem one year ago. Our fire season here has ended with the winter rains. Thanks!

That would be a great comparison. Also an expensive test. The air bags I had installed on my Toyota Gulfstream were a major project. I had to remove the axle u bolts to install the bags. They were so rusted I had to cut them off. Took hours to install. But when done I had a air pump that I could operate from the cab to add more pressure and a release valve to lower pressure. Had air shocks also. Both together gave a solid no sway ride. Previously before the bags the rear bumper sometimes dragged when going into and out of driveways. The bags were rubber, probably pop eventually. I think if you all are going to try the roadmaster suspension you should first know your rear axle weight with the coach loaded for a trip then call roadmaster and get their opinion. The above product I linked is for pickups, not dually motorhomes. I am guessing Roadmaster could easily put together a custom kit with stronger springs.

I just installed one of these kits from www.activesuspension.com. Not exactly on a Toyota but on my F150 with a very heavy workmaster steel canopy installed. But I see that there is a kit available for the Toyota trucks. The difference before and after is absolutely amazing. The truck went from feeling like a top heavy boat to a flat riding stable real truck. Installation for the F150 was really easy. But a floor jack and good jackstands is a requirement. It took longer to get ready for the install than it did to actually install the kit. Anyhow the pick below is the Toyota kit for 86-04 trucks. Not sure exactly how easy or how the Toyota kit installs. Here is a link to the page https://activesuspension.com/products/kits/1986-2004-toyota-pickup-2wd/

I like that picture. A common mistake done. Keep renewing the sealant instead of fixing the problem. Gasket sealing also has another similar effect. The thought is it will never leak when I am done. You only need a thin coat of sealant for gaskets, make it thin enough to see through on both sides of the gasket. I knew a guy who bought a long block hot rodded engine. He used so much extra sealant for gaskets it got into the oil and pan. It blew up within a few miles after first start. And not all gaskets need sealant. Engine builder would not warrantee it.

Is there a small hole in the knob? If so then push a paper clip into the hole.

Just as reference (A reading of 12.65-12.77 volts means your battery has a full charge. 12.45-12.54 volts means you have a 75% charge, 12.24-12.29 is 50% charged, and 11.99-12.06 volts is 25% charged. 11.75-11.89 volts means your battery is dead.) I bring this up because fan rpm might be too low at low voltages to properly cool the combustion chamber. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-check-the-voltage-of-a-car-battery

Bobby's Pit Stop in Santa Cruz replaced our starter (89 V6) using their lift. They have done other work also, always great service. I tried doing the starter myself crawling under. Gave up, took it to them!

Is the tank nylon plastic type material? If so nylon plastic can be hot air welded. I think I have that adapter, off centered? I recently bought the wrong size. Too big for my tank. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T1041-2.html Mine was this one https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T1041-1.html Welding

Verify that you have 12 volts at the smaller terminal with the ignition on. Hold your hand on the isolator and have someone switch on the ignition, there should be a heard and felt clunk. No clunk check to see that it is getting 12v on the energizer terminal. If it is bad and you are thinking of installing an AGM house battery then go with an isolater like the one WME suggests. This is another good one also https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/commercial-vehicle/application-guides/littelfuse-if-161-48525-smart-battery-isolator.pdf

Our 89 v6 went up most hills great. It would shift down, had to be really steep to be crawling. Someone might have put that ignition system in for hopes of better performance. 10 to 13 is not a bad number depending on the terrain and atmosphere conditions. I know some people report 16 mpg, not sure if that is rare or common. If we got 13 mpg that was really good. No matter where we have gone there has usually been several mountain passes to climb to get there and a bunch of cargo. As a comparison, we now have moved to a 25ft travel trailer weighing in at about 3800 pounds empty. Our tow vehicle a 2010 F150 Lariet crew cab with a V8. It's mpg towing averages about the same as our toy did.

I would be interested to know when you hook it up if you actually see a performance gain or better MPG.

I have soldered gas tank leaks and still have the irons. Works great for sheet metal type materials. This picture is not mine but almost exactly like mine. Probably a modern version available somewhere or an old one on eBay. Not sure soldering will fix a stress related leak. No matter what the tank still needs to be dry and fume free. http://www.copperguttershop.com/Soldering_irons.htm

I highly doubt it has a 1 watt of actual rf output. It may though be 1 watt ERP (effective radiated power) with antenna gain. The key factor is getting it outside and above the roof with a clear shot to the access point.