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Gulfstream Greg

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Everything posted by Gulfstream Greg

  1. Where any V6 trucks produced with any other additional modules or do they all just have the engine control module. And you mention tweaking the sensors. Is the tweaked sensor a different part number? And can these ECM's be tuned, is there a way to tweak the ECM? Maybe tweak the ECM with a different sensor?
  2. Use the freezer tray for the initial leveling. Find a flat parking area. Get it exact then place your levels. Two inside the coach and two inside the cab. When parking get it close with the cab levels then check the coach levels. The cab and coach will not always read the same due to some twisting of the cab and frame on uneven terrain. We had a refer in one rig that really needed to be almost perfect to be happy. I think it had a ruff life before we got the rig. Everyone's refer will cool differently depending on it's history. I have met many who had no clue the refer needed to be level.
  3. There are some more components to a happy refer. 1: a ventilation fan mounted at the highest vent, the idea is to get air flow through the back coils. There are some solar fan options. You want to suck the air from the bottom to the top and out the vent 2: Pre-cool the refer with some frozen water bottles in both the freezer and the main compartments. Leave them in for your trip if you can. 3: Thermal mass. These refers work with thermal mass. Pre-cool everything your going to put in it. If it is empty when you open the door all the cold air dumps out, replaced with warm air. 4: Leveling. Don't use the inside of the refer to check if you are level. Pre-level and place some bubble levels somewhere for easy checking. 5: Get a temp monitor made for these refers. They end some of the guessing. 6: Plan your trips into the refer. Get everything once, opening and closing the door several times while preparing meals is tuff to recover from. 7: Gas vs Electric. The electric heating element is mounted directly to the tube that needs to be heated. The gas is different in that the heat from the flame travels up through the chimney through a spiral baffle. That spiral baffle can eventually start to decay to the point where it becomes harder and harder to transfer the flames heat. If you are finding a bunch of rusty debris below the chimney then the baffle is dying. That disintegrating baffle is one reason an older refer has cooling problems. 8: It is also possible that a previous owner ran the refer too far out of level too many times and some of the cooling mixture has solidified in the internals.
  4. My apologies if someone already covered this. I am going to point my finger at your EGR valve. If it sticks open you will not be able to idle because it will create a vacuum leak. They can seal or not seal randomly. The EGR valves are notorious for getting a build up of carbon and gunk inside. They open up at higher rpms via a vacuum line. I think it is mounted on the back of the cylinder head next to the firewall. If you were in a different state you could remove it and install a delete plate.
  5. Airlift and Firestone both have compressor kits that can be operated from the cab. They include gauges so that you can keep track of what pressures you like best.
  6. Here is one for sale in British Columbia https://vancouver.craigslist.org/nvn/cto/d/north-vancouver-1994-toyota-hiace-turbo/6833520538.html Looking through different locations on craigslist I see them for sale. So if your gut really likes the hiace look around before you drop 20K, 4x4 will open up another world for you! The camper versions look rare though.
  7. Singles have more sidewall flex. Rear tire sidewall flex along with body roll will give you really wonky steering, that's my guess on what boundfornowhere was experiencing. Plus being 4 wheel drive sitting higher they were more top heavy than a 2 wheel drive. Maybe there is a correct single tire and suspension choice. Some of it might be custom!
  8. Also note that some aftermarket replacement cats for the toys have inlet and outlet reductions inside the cat. The pipe on the outside might be the same size as your exhaust pipe but inside the cat the diameter is reduced. Possibly not a big deal but in my opinion there should be no restrictions in pipe diameter. How do I know? I did my own cat replacement on a stock 22RFI turbo exhaust. I was checking out the cat before install and discovered the reduction. The factory cat had no reductions. The parts guy had no explanation and in his opinion was not a problem, I disagreed. I busted out the insides of my old cat and ran it, eventually installed a custom larger diameter system and cat.
  9. Our CA 90 also had dual cats, on the same pipe inline with each other. I think they were factory! Smog shops eyebrows were raised for sure! They found some reference for it and passed it 3 separate times.
  10. This video might be correct
  11. If it has the non-floating axle using dulies it is a huge safety issue no matter what size the rig is. The situation is that the outside wheel because of it's distance from the bearing creates continuous flexing (via leverage) of the axle behind the hub at the bearing. Eventually the axle fatigues and breaks off and away goes your wheel assembly. Really high tire pressures aggravate the problem. Sometimes there might be some warning signs. Enough to start you thinking "something weird is going on". Then at 50 plus miles an hour on a curve! Unless the guy who checked your axle actually took it out and magniflexed it how do you know there are no microscopic cracks? If your set on keeping the axle you MUST remove the fake duals and replace with a single wheel. I don't think the above scenario can be classified as opinion anymore. The non-floating rear axles with the fake duals fail. Go to a scale, get the rear axle weight, go to a tire store with those numbers (don't forget cargo weight) and get rid of the fake duals.
  12. Having bought several tires from Les Schwab my personal feelings are that they are one of the best tire stores in the west. I recently dropped the right front of my F150 into a deep 2 foot hole. It was a hard hit. Took it down to Les Schwab because I was sure the alignment was off. They put it on the machine and also fixed a slow leak in a rear tire. The alignment was good, the leaky tire was causing the weird handling. They called me to the desk and said you good to go! I said what, how much do I owe? $0.00 And there is one on just about every corner (slight exaggeration depending where you are).
  13. We removed our A/C from our 18 ft sunrader when we had it. Replaced it with variable speed in or out vent fan. We did not have a generator. When parked open windows on the cool side of the rig, set the fan to exhaust and pull cooler air in through the windows. The loss of cargo space for a generator is a huge impact in a 18 footer. If your bent on having a generator installed give these guys in Sacramento a call http://rvdoctorgeorge.com/ see if they are willing. I am sure they could hook you up with a running genset. I doubt that anyone can give you a real price over the phone. The install will be custom with many many man hours involved. It would not be a couple of days project. There are also a couple of RV shops in the Santa Cruz area that do repairs not sure about custom installs. You are also entering the RV season, everyone and his uncle has their RV at a repair shop getting something fixed. Take a number!
  14. Are you saying that the double's actually have two contactors? Outside pair should be double (running/brake), the middle should be single (turn), and the inside I believe is just single for reverse. Someone may have modified yours for some reason. Maybe time to replace with the LED version https://trailerparts.com/products/trailer-lights/trailer-tail-lights/bargman-47-84-005-taillight.html
  15. I think the valves can be purchased to repair the pump. Google the brand, model and valve etc. Cheaper than a new pump
  16. I would just get a couple of 5 gal water containers for xtra water. When we had our 18ft sunrader I replumbed the shower disconnecting it from the black tank. The replumb was set up for a standard hose connection that could go directly into a 5 gal bucket or out into the bushes. I replaced the shower spray nozzle with the pull out type that is used in residential sinks for rinsing off dishes. Not the main faucet but the little sprayer along side on a hose. They provide a high velocity spray and they shut off. Found that we could take a shower with about 2 to 3 gallons of water. Since the 18 ft black tanks are only 8 gallons it was a big deal. Adapting the new hose to the existing threads though is a bit of a challenge. Take as many pieces as you can when you visit the hardware store to match threads!
  17. If it is Nylon based plastic I know of nothing that will permanently glue the crack. But Nylon plastic tanks can be "Plastic Welded" using a pinpoint hot air torch and the correct plastic rod for the type of plastic. No idea how much a torch would cost but you might be able to rent one. The welding method is permanent and the area could be built up to add strength. I did a quick internet search for "weld nylon plastic" and got a ton of returns and instructional videos. Led's can be dimmed using this device. It is called a pulse width modulator. I actually pulled the innards out and built the circuitry into my light fixture with the knob sticking out the side but they could easily be mounted next to the fixture. Really cheap on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manual-Dimmer-Switch-for-LED-Strip-Light-12V-8A-Mountable-with-Terminals/251985183083?epid=1658856529&hash=item3aab7cc16b:g:gQoAAOSwQy9cUc-Y:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
  18. Our 1990 Gulfstream had all aluminum framing. I had to rebuild the cab over walls due to water damage. It had leaked on both sides where the roof sheathing meets the front aluminum cowling. https://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/media/uploads/1/11066_1991-Conquest-Toyota-Micro.pdf
  19. I agree, they are too big for our cramped RV's. I thought of getting one for my shop but gave up the idea because I did not want to set my dog on fire. If you camp where you have shore power then one of the small electrics with a built in circulation fan is far safer.
  20. So when it is cold the metal is slightly shrunk and when you warm it the metal expands and gets a gets a connection. Can be rust or other corrosion between some components or wire connectors. Could even be a cold solder joint or cracked trace on the control board. Can be a pain in the rear to find. Try the tap on things before using the electric heater.
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