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Here is a better diagram with all the necessary bushings and parts for the end links with part numbers. Googling part numbers brings up lots of places to buy. Stabilizer Cushion #48817-30020 | Autoparts.toyota.com Linda S

After much testing, swapping out alternators, checking fuses, and digging into diagrams, etc, I've determined that, of the the three wires that connect to the alternator (not including the large B+ post wire), the RED wire is dead and has zero voltage with Key On Engine Off. The other two wires in that 3-wire alt connector, the white and the yellow, seem to be doing what they should be doing and show close to battery voltage, which is about 12.6v at the moment. (Sidenote: the truck runs and idles very well... until the battery runs way down, of course.) Anybody ran across this before and/or have a suggestion to troubleshoot the red wire? This wire is supposed to carry 12V from the ignition switch to the alternator, far as I can tell, but it looks like it's probably shorted/cut/chewed-through or something. I'm thinking I've got to trace the route through the entire harness, somehow, or just run a new wire from the fuse panel at driver's feet out to the alt. But, you can tell me if I'm wrong! 😀 I've got a question out on YotaTech about all this too, but I know people here are pretty quick to respond, usually. Thanks as always.

They are there. The part discontinued is the whole metal end link. Here are the bushings 4881730010 4881514160 Linda S Ignore that it might say front. Same bushings for rear

the links werent on the donor ?

these are the main bushings on the end links I’m having trouble finding. Discontinued and can’t find online.

Thank you! I did check this parts website and it does have the leaf spring bushing but the sway bar or stabilizer bar end links are apparently discontinued. Just need bushing and maybe the washers and nut but it show the links in an exploded diagram, all the parts I need too but discontinued. Don’t know where else to find, looked online with no lead.

Hey Everyone. I had the Dolphin at an RV repair center. The Tech showed me that it is the converter. Not getting over 11v output of the converter. It's the original converter that is 32 years old. Hopefully the RV repair center will have time for the replacement converter this coming weekend.

This page should have all the bushings but it also has some stuff you don't need. You can sort through them https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/parts-list/1990-toyota-pickup-2_wheel_drive/power_train_chassis/rear_spring_shock_absorber.html?filter=(d=USA;1=3VZE;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4HC;7=RCB;8=WT;9=HLF;11=EFI;13=IV6;14=T1;0=VZN95L-TWSREA6) You can also search this site to see what other types people have bought. The poly bushings are supposed to be better, like Energy Suspension. I just don't know the part numbers for those Linda S

I’ve looked online and found multiple but want to order the right ones, need to find some leaf spring bushing for my 1990 Toyota pickup project that im doing a rear end swap to a dually from a motor home. Also need the bushing for the sway bar and end links but I’m having trouble trying to find the bushings for the end links. Just wanting to make one order that’s correct so I don’t have any delays.

No don’t worry about it.

Hello, all. I have a 1986 Nova Star with the fiberglass shell. If I use FRP, I am creating a second vapor barrier, correct? Does anyone have suggestions for other bathroom wall materisls to avoid moisture and mould growth, especially from condensation inside the wall? Is this even something I should worry about?

Thank you i will check it out right away

Not sure if this helps. My son lives in Okinawa and is into old Subaru’s. He has bought them from a website named Goonet Exchange, google it. They are very good to deal with and from what I can tell it’s like a Japanese website that caters to dealers putting their inventory on and selling to individuals. The website has many many vehicles and may have something you’re looking for.

Hi all. Im new to this forum but been a Toyota fan all my life. Been looking for a toyota motorhome for a while online and I really like the sunrader. But i often see it in USA. Did it occur on the European market? Is there any webpage dedicated to the different Motorhomes made for european market? Or does anyone have knowledge what models where made here. I am based in Sweden and don’t see any Toyotas so often for sale? I have been sleeping in my proace for a couple of years now and would be awesome to make an upgrade. Thanks all and hope you have a nice Sunday! /totoyota

Filon is very thin. The only way to get a smooth durable finish is to glue it to a hard surface. Goboard might work for that but don't know. They do make a Goboard sealant that might work Linda S

Hello, All - First time caller, long time listener. Thanks so much for letting me lurk in this group and learn SO much from y'all over the years! It gave me the confidence to bring home our new (to us) 1989 Gulf Stream Conquest. Now the real fun begins! It may be a while before I'm putting any new / dry materials into the over cab bed area, but like many of you before me, I've gotten it stripped down to the fiberglass. My question is - does the first layer next to the fiberglass HAVE to be luan? And regardless of what the substrate is (luan or something else) does it HAVE to be glued to the fiberglass? I do want to see if I can tighten the fiberglass back up, some (it was hauling a lake!) but am wondering about screwing it to the aluminum frame in order to accomplish that. Thanks so much for any advice on the rebuild!

Hi, JayBees - Did you ever get an answer to this? I'm going to need to rebuild the sidewalls of our overcab bed, and I, too, am wondering about that outer layer of luan (next to the Fiberglass) and whether it is necessary. AND if it CAN be replaced, does the replacement substrate NEED to be glued to the fiberglass? I'm looking into a product called GoBoard and a plastic wall panel on the inside - and wondering if that could replace the rigid insulation and exterior luan (and NOT be glued to the exterior fiberglass). Thanks, in advance, for any advice and experience anyone can offer.

No affiliation with this product but thought I'd mention: lots of these old trucks no longer have a good/working battery hold-down. I purchased this low-price, OEM-style bracket off eBay recently, and it fits perfectly and works great. Includes all the necessary hardware. https://www.ebay.com/itm/296318108252

Got an email from another member about guy who does Sunrader windows in Bend Or. I don't do Facebook but this might be helpful to anyone who needs them. Know nothing about their work but sounds like he does a lot of other Sunrader stuff too. Toyota Sunrader Builders | Just finished another set of front curved windows | Facebook I also talked to Dean Elena yesterday in Napa Ca. He's still making the windows and since he is the one who probably built your Sunrader he would be my first choice. Advantage RV Napa Ca 707-252-8188 Linda

Put together a GIF from the 101 usable still pictures I shot during the eclipse.

Never seen this before. What a fantastic idea!

Here ya go a Two for One combo, it's sorta rare. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1954-kom-pak-sportsman-trailer/

Check your connections on the battery post(s). Also, clean the negative cable connection where it grounds to the frame. A bad ground on the coach battery will cause the same symptoms.

Coach battery is good and connected.. Not sure if I can find anything on YouTube or anyone on this group help me what to look for.. Hoping it's not the 12 v converter..

Sounds like a great first trip, and thanks for the cool pics! Yeah, these rigs don't break down often (one BIG reason for the cult following), but you really have to allow a lot more travel time typically. I will road-trip a car for 10-12 hrs solid if I have to do so, but I limit our Toyota RV trips to ~6hrs/day, tops... which gets us about 330 miles or so with stops.