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  2. Driver cab heating

    I have an '88 Escaper built on '87 truck. The fan motor comes out without removing the glove box. My fan box was packed totally full by a bunch of mice. One mouse could not haul that amount of garbage. There where leaves, insulation, carpeting, and much more. The fan would not turn at all. After getting all of the garbage out of the fan box, I used a shop vac to clean out all of the duct work under the dash. Some of it I sucked out and some had to be blown out.
  3. If you want to do yourself a favor remove the old ones and replace them with sealed LED's you'll never have to deal with them again. The snap on plastic covers leak all ways have always will most have a small drain hole in the fixture.
  4. Where to find new curtains

    mini blinds ---- someone like blinds chalet
  5. Yesterday
  6. Hello to All, I just signed up, and this is my first post. I want to upgrade (not replace) the Clearance lights / Marker lights / Running lights on my 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit. There are 12 lights altogether 5 on the front, 1 on each side (low and towards the back), and 5 on the rear. I'll just be removing the snap-off plastic lens [measuring roughly 1.5" x 1.5" x 4"], removing the old incandescent bulb [BA9S 2-side-pin base, #1895 filament/globe], installing an LED bulb , and then replacing the lens. eBay, Amazon, web has MANY variations of BA9S-1895 bulbs. My current question concerns covered vs coverless bulbs: * COVERED BULBS: Some of the bulbs have clear plastic covers (over the top half of the bulbs), presumably to protect the LED chips and internal circuits from dust, dirt, moisture, condensation, humidity, etc. ** COVERLESS BULBS: Most of the bulbs do NOT have clear plastic covers -- they just have a cylindrical metal base on the bottom, and a little tower of exposed LED chips. 1) Can I get away with using the COVERLESS bulbs, since I will be installing them under a tight-fitting plastic lens anyway? . There is a much greater range of bulb choices if I go coverless. . Or should I go with one of the COVERED bulbs, as over time there may be significant intrusion of dust, dirt, humidity, moisture, condensation that could damage (and/or shorten the lifespan of) the bulb? My second question is: 2) . How many lumens? . I think the original incandescent bulb is 25 lumens, and the LEDs range from about 50 lumens (~50 mA per bulb) up to 300 lumens (~70 mA; the 300LM bulb is more efficient) thanks for your responses
  7. Driver cab heating

    max would be a lot better then none for shure even where i live . i could not recall the details on that but yes i recall that only cuts in on the lower speeds . had moter freze up before
  8. Driver cab heating

    My experience with the fan speed controlling 'resistor packs' is that usually when there's a problem, the only speed that works is 'Maximum'. Which isn't a bad thing at this time of year in Canada.
  9. Driver cab heating

    i have done this remove and replaced the heater blower but was in 1987 truck same cab as pict above in those you can drop it out the bottem from under the dash. don t lose the screws they are a special breed.cant remember if you have too take glove box out or not .but remove that is not too hard . dont take dash out . there is also a resister mounted on the heater duct controls the speed if blown maybe no fan speeds .
  10. Driver cab heating

    I'm guessing your fan will be located on the passenger side behind the glovebox. It might be accessible from below or you might have to remove the glovebox. Here's a video for a later truck.
  11. Driver cab heating

    Et Derek ! OUI Il fait frett en TABARNAK
  12. Driver cab heating

    my rig is a 83 / 84 with the 22r ... i'm currently driving with the furnace on and it't ok but never enough to warm your feet and defrost the window when it's -20 ... Everything seems fine with the control, I hear the flaps doing their work when I switch the positions and I can fell the the flow of air is going to the right place but it's very week ... Any of you know where is located the heater blower ? is it fairly easy to get access to it or it require dismanteling the whole dash
  13. Driver cab heating

    I had an 86 Toyota and the heater worked well down to -20. The first thing to do is look at the cables from the control panel to all the various flaps and such, make sure each one does what its supposed to do and hasn't slipped of the lever. Next is remove the heater blower motor and make sure its running at full speed. While its out check the heater core for blockages. In 30 years you never what rat built a nest in the heater box or a pile of leaves has filtered down through the cowl vent. There photos on this site of the junk found in the heater box. You would believe some of them
  14. Driver cab heating

    Use your coach furnace. Leave it running while your driving. Be sure to open any curtains separating the cab from the coach. A 12V clip on fan could help push the heat to the front if more is needed. Did you check your coolant level to be sure it's full? Proper antifreeze? A plugged core would involve a fair amount of labor to replace. Definitely not something to do in the cold.
  15. Driver cab heating

    I can't help, but knowing what year your Toyota is might get you more precise information. Yes, it's cold, Osti.
  16. Toilets, toilets and more toilets

    Hello team. I have been researching composting toilets and am now just deciding which unit to go for. There are basically four options as I see it: The C-Head http://www.c-head.com/ (approx. $600) which I think is the superior manufactured design and it comes in a "shorty" version which is 15" tall and thus the same dimensions of the stock toilet in my 88 Sunrader so it would be an easy swap. Then there is the Airhead http://airheadtoilet.com/ which is quite spendy ($1,100?) and the Nature's Head http://natureshead.net/ which is a similar design to the Airhead and also kinda spendy ($950-$1000). Both the Natures head and the Air head are 19"tall which would necessitate some carpentry work to make it sit down inside the floor of the bathroom if I wanted to still have access to the cabinets and drawers in there - so if I were to go with a manufactured design I would go with the C-Head as the reviews are quite favorable on this unit and I could install it fairly easily or so it seems. And it is the most affordable of the three. It is also simple and made of parts that can be easily repaired or replaced wherever I might be. The Natures head and Air head are both more complex and made of specialized parts. Not easy to repair in the field. The option I think I am going to go with though is DIY. There is a kit offered by these guys: http://www.ecovita.net/privy.html which gives you the specialized hardware to create your own "urine diverting' composting toilet and it will cost you $129. The kit comes with three different sets of plans to build your own system. People on the boating forums have built these and report no-stink toilet living aboard their vessels full time for years. The substrate these kinds of toilets produce is apparently not smelly as you add coconut husk, peat moss, sawdust - any kind of moisture soaking substrate to the poo tank after each use. The poo tank is a five gallon bucket and the urine diverter hose goes to a pee bottle that can be removed and easily dumped on a fairly regular basis. The turds can usually go for a month before being bagged and tossed into a dumpster. THe sailors on the boating forums site the legality of throwing feces in the garbage in the form of adult and baby diapers, colostomy bags and the like. Since there is no urine in the solids tank and since you are adding the drying agent, apparently the resulting turd mixture is just sawdusty dry lumps that are odor free and innocuous. I'll post any progress I make on this project. Huzzah!
  17. Driver cab heating

    Hi guys ! I live in canada and looking to move in the toyhome full time this winter ... I'm ok with heating the living area but having trouble to heat the driver's cab while driving ... either the blower is starting to die or block or maybe they were just not really powerfull when made in the 80's ... I really don't look forward to disassemble the front dash to look at it in the below freezing temp that we have now so i'm looking if any of you could give me a heads up ... Do any of you have made that repair ? Do any of you have the schematic or any can tell me the best and easiest way to access the blower ? Thanks a bunch
  18. If you installed the bushings unloaded (springs hanging) and tightened everything up then put the full weight back on the springs that could have caused your problem because that would have twisted the bushings as you put weight on the springs way beyond their normal range.
  19. It's a head scratcher for sure. I'm not sure how the shackles work on your year (mines a 1978) but there is a plate that has to be removed on the front shackle brackets before the bushings will fit correctly. If I remember the sequence correctly, you install the inboard bushing into the leaf spring then lift it into the shackle bracket. With the cover plate removed install the outboard bushing into the leaf spring then reinstall the cover plate. Do all the bushings look the same? Or is just the ones from the front shackles?
  20. Having done this recently on different brand/model, here is a neubie comment. The steps are designed to be contained in a box, and a standard pattern of nuts sometimes emerged at the bottom to permit addition of lower folding steps (amazon ebay: rv steps, not substitute for this step). Either way, its important to assess the health of the frame first. You will need relatively thick wood for the step. Your big box store can cut one in the simple template (that you measure and take) if you want. My step has greater than 1/2in of what looks like some hardwood (can't tell what kind, shouldnt matter, even plywood of 3/4in or great ought to do) and my frame itself is reasonably sound. In any case, also consider placing a metal sheet, stamped thin aluminium is cheap, on top this time when you renew the step. Seal the bottom of the wood well. If there are suspected areas of rust to the point of weakness in the metal frame for the steps then just replacing wood wont do. edit: I see the fiberglassing comment re. step wood above, that is a great idea.
  21. hi fred i know they look old but they just arent! 100 percent i was right there when we did it. i got even newer ones and im gonna see what happens.. both me and my mechanic are quite baffeled. any chance you remember the brand you got? have you looked at them recently? still in good shape?
  22. my brother in law and i did it. they were definatly replaced 100 percent. only 2 months ago. all of the rubber stuff under the truck needed replacing. ( the rig came from texas) very dry down there. they do look like they have been on there a while but they have not. install was very easy too.. so odd.
  23. Where to find new curtains

    Pull one of those attachments so we can see the other side. Did it have curtains when you got it. Look like vertical blinds to me Linda
  24. Where can I find new curtains for this type of rack?
  25. What type of wood should I use for replacing the step?
  26. Last week
  27. I changed all of mine when I replaced my leaf springs. There's no way the bushing in that picture is only 2 months old. That looks like a factory original. They usually split like that when removing the pin. If you paid a garage or shop for the work, I'd go back a get a refund. For future reference, it's your right to request any old parts be returned to you.
  28. Was it you who replaced them or did you pay someone to do it? From the picture, it looks like they've been installed for many years.
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