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  1. Yesterday
  2. Thirsty Spirit
    Alright I got a new Isolator (switch interuptor - what it says on the box). Basically looks the same as the one that was there but has the two prongs on the front. According to the diagram up above the second prong needs to be grounded. I did all this. I grounded it to chassis. I hooked up the other wires turned the key and what do you know?! I have 12 volts coming out the other side of the Isolator and to the coach battery. So I loaded up the dog and we went for a Sunday drive. When I came home an turned off the vehicle the gauge in the coach said full charge of 12 volts. So I think this all worked. My only guess for why that white wire was disconnected from the isolator is that it wasn't actually connected to the wiper motor but it was the actual connection to the Ignition. Maybe it was disconnected for winterizing?? So no chance of the house battery getting any charge form the car battery? Who knows. My only fear now is that the ground wire is attached to the wrong place or the wire isn't a heavy enough gage. I'll take a pic and post. Thank you a ton everyone for your input and helping me get this problem solved.
  3. Maineah
    OK dead battery or not the terminal on the other side should have been pretty close to the other side. It kind of points to the isolator being toes up that could be why the control wire was disconnected. As been stated before do not use a starter solenoid it will cook in a matter of minutes and it's possible it killed the wiper fuse and that's why it was disconnected..
  4. fred heath
    I’m with you Greg. A tap makes sense. Cutting the wire makes no sense.
  5. Derek up North
    No, not really. Similar (in looks) is a 'starter solenoid' meant only for short engagement (while your starter spins). You want a battery isolator designed for 'continuous duty' (hours on end while you travel). An example:- https://www.amazon.ca/Tow-Ready-118665-Isolation-Solenoid/dp/B004R36U8M/ref=asc_df_B004R36U8M/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292910228812&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10837429675731225246&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000625&hvtargid=pla-570056170279&psc=1
  6. Gulfstream Greg
    Can you hear the solenoid click when you give it ignition power? If it does not click and you have 12v on the small terminal it is bad . If it does click and you only have 12 volts on one side of the large terminals it is bad. If it has 12 volts on both sides follow the wire testing as you go. I may have missed something but why did the previous owner cut the wire going to the windshield wiper motor. Were both add on white wires not connected to anything? Find any other wires that are not connected to anything?
  7. Lindzothegreat Lindzothegreat joined the community
  8. Thirsty Spirit
    Sorry 4.56 v Yeah I'm gonna try cleaning em up but I think a whole new might be the ticket. Are they all created equal?
  9. Derek up North
    456 volts? All your terminals look like they need cleaning. A bad contact/connection could stop things doing as they should. A whole new isolator is cheap and it looks like your existing one doesn't owe you much!
  10. Derek up North
    'WAG' = acronym of "wild-assed guess" ; 'SWAG' = acronym of "scientific wild-assed guess".
  11. Thirsty Spirit
    Btw WME- its a three post. So I checked all the volts. The car battery reads 12+ Volts, the terminal into the isolator reads about the same. I turned on the engine and the mystery white wire read 12+ volts. The terminal out of the isolator to the house battery reads 0v. I attached the white wire to the isolator and the terminal out of the isolator still read 0v. I attached the house battery and the reading out of the isolator read 456 volts and the house battery read the same. I'm gonna take a sunday drive and see if the volts go up but maybe my isolator is bad?
  12. Chale B Chale B joined the community
  13. Thirsty Spirit
    Thanks everyone for the info. I have my volt meter and am going to check everything. Hoping its that white wire that I just have to attach to the b terminal on the isolator. What does WAG stand for? Also, if the white wire does solve the problem will this be enough to recharge the house battery since it is drained if I drive around for a while or will I need to get a battery charger to recharge the house battery? Thanks again cross your fingers.
  14. tstockma
    "Problem solved" turned out a little premature... Denver Oil dropped by in our absence on Weds to pump out any & all fluids for $250, and take away the drums for $50 each...however after pumping fluid, then declined to pull the drums out because there were too old & in danger of coming apart. The guy did tell us over the phone he thought we wouldn't have a hard time, but his lift method was not gentle enough. So, my method to remove ancient used oil barrels: 1) Have commercial company pump out fluids 2) Use Harbor Freight ratcheting tie-down strap around each barrel, under the first molded-in ridge 1/3 the way down from the top, first attaching 3 ropes coming up from that tie-down... 3) Lift & pray (actually the strapping worked great, they came right out) 4) Now need to see if Denver Oil will come back to take away the drums, if not we'll have to deliver to some disposal service So while we're not quite done, at least the fluids are pumped out & the barrels out of the pit. At least it's mostly rainwater left in the bottom Article keywords: old ancient 55 gal gallon waste oil drum disposal removal from oil grease pit...
  15. linda s
    The camper body is 78 inches wide so it would depend on how high those fenders are. If they are low the camper section would sit above them Linda S
  16. kevinm
    Thanks for the info! I'll probably just go with the tow bar setup (I'll have to figure out how to mount the connectors to the bumper, I guess) - we were going to go with a trailer, but was concerned about the width of the camper body and if it would clear the fenders on an equipment trailer.
  17. linda s
    If its manual which most of them are a tow bar will work fine. Just pop it into neutral. Tires have to be decent though. If it's a rare automatic your going to need the trailer. 6ft wide is plenty. Wheelbase is standard long bed for that year. If the wheels fit, it fits. Axle width is 55 or 56 inches. Tons of room to spare Linda S
  18. Last week
  19. kevinm started following Picking up a Chinook - will it fit on a trailer?
  20. kevinm
    New here, but am getting ready to pick up a non running Chinook - it's about three hours away. Will it fit on a regular flatbed trailer, 6 feet wide or so? Or if anyone else has ideas on the best way to get it home - tow bar and flat tow, tow dolly, etc. It's way too far to have a big flatbed tow truck transport it - I'll need to do this myself. Any help would be great!
  21. kevinm kevinm joined the community
  22. Sherry Connor Sherry Connor joined the community
  23. linda s
    Paint it. I wouldn't go with flat but a satin would be nice. Also you could use some construction glue where the molding gaps are. I usually use Flexseal glue now. Bonds right away. If there is pressure on those gaps it could take a little longer but that literally means you standing there for a few minutes pushing on it. So now I want to address your age. You seem to think that your kind of old for this job. I'm 5 years older than you and right now I am remodeling a real house. 1600 sq ft. repaired the roof, replaced plumbing, installed new tile, paint the entire thing inside and out and sand and refinish hardwood floors. Now I want you to go look at your little camper and say to yourself " This is going to be a piece of cake" Linda S
  24. linda s
    Yeah the whole light. Just needed to attach the wires and screw it back in. Was quite a while ago though. As I remember tit was missing when I got the rig. The floor and step were completely shot. I just matched the one from my Toyota when I was fixing stuff. We are talking about the step light right? Did you ever get the plastic off the stove top light. That was a pain for me too. I thought I was going to break it. It was just glued on with years of grease. Plastic putty knife around the outside edge will loosen it Linda S
  25. sweetleon
    Including the face plate?
  26. Carol ernst started following Ceiling on 1985 Toyota new horizon
  27. Carol ernst
    Someone in the past repaired a portion of the ceiling with a shiny material and wide moldings. The original portion has narrow moldings and flat sheen. I am looking for suggestions on how I might pull it all together for a more consistent appearance. Thankyou!
  28. Derek up North
  29. Maineah
    The little boxes are thermal cutouts they appear to be fairly new. The taped white wire is supposed to supply power to the big relay with the key on that's why the system does not work.
  30. WME
    Wow are you going to have fun. A pure WAG is the white wire in the second photo of the first is the control wire for the isolator. Isolator is black cylinder in the first photo of your last post. With the engine off you should have 0v on the white wire, with the engine running there should be 12-14v on the white wire. If this is correct then check the isolator terminals one side should be 12v and the otherside 0v with the house battery disconnected. If both are so, then hook the white wire to the B terminal on the isolater. Start the engine and check the isolator for 12v on both sides. If thats good then hook up the battery + and check the house batter for voltage with the engine off. That should be less than 12v. Start the engine and the battery voltage should be 13.5v +. If that happen you good to go and as you drive around the engine will be charging the house battery. I can't tell is your isolator is a 3 post with a blob of rust or a 4 post with a broken terminal. Finding the battery V drain with the engine off and the ignition key removed requires a mini amp meter and you have to check each wire to the + post on the battery. Have fun
  31. CampingKate CampingKate joined the community
  32. TeaMaxx TeaMaxx joined the community
  33. Thirsty Spirit
    Adding on here. I took some pictureds and looked at the terminal switch diagram. So everything looks correct. Not sure what the little fuselike boxes are that the wires go to. Can you all take a look at the photos and see if something looks wrong. I followed the wires back to the terminal and on under the vehicle to the coach battery. The coach battery is grounded and everything looks attached in the right places. Could the rust on the terminal be causing a problem? Also checked the fuses, they seem to be intact. Thanks for any help!
  34. Maineah
    I think you'll find it is a Honda engine copy they look the same.
  35. Maineah
    Jumping it will not help unless you leave your running car hooked up for a few hours. In the meantime you can buy a fairly cheap battery maintainer to connect to it plug it in and leave it on for a day or two. Your converter charger in the camper should also charge the camper battery as long as it is plugged into the house.
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