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  1. Yesterday
  2. My 87 New Horizon had 27K on it when I bought it years ago.
  3. Wrong tires, wrong gear😝 185/60/14 tire.. capacity 1047 lbs (82) revs per mile 916. Most of these Toys weigh 4000lbs in the rear. With these tires you have 0 excess carry capacity in the event of a flat, what is your spare tire situation? LT185/14/c...capacity 1850 lbs (102) revs per mile 809 this the correct tire IMHO Because of the difference in automatic O/D ratios vs 5th gear of the manual transmission. The best choices are 4.88 for the auto and 4.56 for the 5 sp manual. The 4 speed manual is best just left alone. You have less than 100hp all the gears in the world aren't going to overcome that. What your trying to do is run down the road with the engine turning between the torque peak, 2800 rpm and the HP peak, 4800 rpm. Like around 3800 rpm. There gear calculators on line that will let you try things
  4. Sold in two days. I didn't think it would last long.
  5. You definitely need the right tires and 185r14 is the right size. As far a those differentials the 4 banger needs to run at pretty high RPMs . That 5.29 diff is going to be way to high for it to handle. Going to end up stalling a lot. The 4.56 is probably the best. There's only so much torque you can get from a little tiny engine especially when it's pulling a house. We all just learn to deal with it Linda S
  6. You currently have 185/60R14 fitted? That was the standard tire size & capacity for my 1984 VW Rabbit GTI. Good luck with that! If you want a little more (safely), install 185R14 102/100 tires and a 4.88:1 or 5.29:1 differential.
  7. 1986 R22.. auto trans. I changed my rear end gear from 4.10 to 4.56.. Helped tremendously w/ torque.. Could use a little more.. Tires 185/14/60 ...Thinking of going to 175, just on the rear wheels, for a little more torque. 175s = 1/4" smaller side wall.. lowers the rear of the rig 1/2".. but I have air bag suspension.. so rear sits high now.. Anyone tried this..?? Here's the specs on difference; https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator?ef_id=XoIODAAABcN5zNtb:20200330151940:s
  8. Hey Rick Yeah it's a constant game of give an inch take an inch, just depends where you want that inch I suppose. For now I don't wanna think about it lol I got the lights from amazon, it was $35 for 10 of them. The light itself is waterproof and you can just snap in a replacement if one goes bad. Also they're just a touch smaller than the originals which I thought gave it a little bit better look. I tried cleaning and fixing first but it was a lost cause, mine had lived in California and then Oregon for a bit so there was a lot of corrosion. I've still got holes to fill but I've finally sealed up most of it, all that's left are the old appliance holes that I have to decide about and closing in around the gas tank fill neck area which has been super fun. Sunrader just loaded a oooo ton of butyl around there, another one of their brilliant construction ideas. At least at this point I know to expect very little from the original design and that most everything needs to be rebuilt and upgraded. I guess one area I have lucked out on (touch wood) is that my wraparound windows don't seem to leak at all. The rubber on the gasket seems ok, and even though the windows have bowed and aren't straight anymore I haven't had a drop of water come through them yet. Looks like weather is improving so I'll be able to glass in the final things this week hopefully and move onto some actual interior building and design
  9. I am about done with the remodel/re-hab on my '85 Sunrader and was powerwashing the roof. Accidently moved the wand past the Cyclone vent for the black water tank and blew it to smithereens. While replacing it with a new one, noticed that the inside of the vent pipe was completely clogged with mud dauber nests. A couple of coat hangers in series made a make shift "snake" and the pipe was easily clear. If you have any odors from the black tank, this may be part of the problem. I am posting because this reminded me: My heater did not work. Mud daubers had taken residence in and around the sail switch and fan. No air flow, no heat. A pain but a no money fix. My refrigerator worked on electric but did not work on propane. Again mud daubers. Another no money fix. ....My rig sat unused for up to 10 years before I bought it.
  10. The first and last Sunraders were build in the California plant. They all had the wrap around windows. Sunrader also had a plant in Indiana and all Indiana Sunraders had the smaller windows. I'm not enough of a Sunrader 'scholar' to be able to say if Indiana Sunraders ever had the 'updates' (Fiberglass cabinets, roof supports).
  11. Thanks, They look so much better than the non-wrap around ones, and I bet you can see so much more with the wrap around ones. Also don't these come on the newer years, so with wrap around ones you get all the other updates as well?
  12. Mine has the wrap around windows and no I don't think they weaken the area. I know a lot of people don't like them and say they leak too easily but mine still have the original rubber seal and don't leak at all. Linda S
  13. We are looking for a Sunrader (been for awhile), and was wondering what years have the wrap around windows in the section over the cab, and if these windows weaken the over cab area more than the smaller windows which don't wrap around? Thanks!
  14. Jay. I know it's hard to give up headroom after working so hard to get more space. I struggled with it, but I wanted something up there that was a little more than just white panel. Did you buy the rear lights online? I cleaned mine - probably the originals - up and repaired what I could and they seem good for now. And, yes, it will be a big step getting it water tight and moving on. I am still struggling with one of the plex windows in the front that has a very small leak that I can't seem to figure out. Frustrating. Rick
  15. Last week
  16. I’ve heard W58 is the way to go. Supposed to be an easy swap. Elongating the tunnel shift hole is only requirement. I’ve never done this swap (love my L43), but a former member here reports every thing matches up. You will need a 5 speed cross member. Other than that, the spline count, transmission length, everything else should work.
  17. Yes thankfully the axle was swapped to 6 lug including receipts. Just to derail this post even more: Anyone swap their L43 for the L52? I’d be curious if the swap difficulty as well as improvements in drivability
  18. Otolith, you’re welcome. Not sure if you’ve addressed this subject. Does your rear axle have 5 lug nuts or 6? If you have duel rear wheels with only 5 lug nuts (GO82 axle), your axle is unsafe. You should have a total of 6 lug nuts on your rear axle. This is known as a full float (ff) axle. Hope you had the upgrade. Fred
  19. That’s it! Actually on the inside of the passenger fender on mine. 1980 20r L43. Thanks Fred
  20. WME, you’re correct. Lacking a 17 digit VIN, the chassis is definitely an 1980. The early Toyota ID plates attached to the inner drivers side fender also contains such information as engine type, transmission type, and rear axle type. When in doubt, refer to this information. Attached is a typical ID plate.
  21. FWIW the 17 digit VIN wasn't required until 1981. The RN number is sometime used or it seems the coach number can be used
  22. Trying to buy parts for the TOYOTA part of your Sunrader will not be helped knowing the Sunrader ID number. You'll only be helped by the TOYOTA VIN.
  23. All of the registrations show the 5 digit vin. The chassis has a manufacture plate that is stamped “2/80” but I can’t find a vin in the typical spots. Not sure if this means 2 of 80 or 2nd in ‘80. It has the taller curved front windows that seem like they ended around 1980/1981.
  24. Can't say I've noticed anything 'cranky' since JD left. With so many people stay (I hope) at home, your ISP might be overloaded and throttling back speeds?
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