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  1. Today
  2. If you have to tow the MH with the rear wheel on the ground you MUST remove the drive shaft OR remove the rear axles. Failure to do this will ruin the transmission. Don't forget to plug the holes so the oil doesn't drain out of the rear end or transmission.
  3. An RV water system is only so complex. Trace every single water line from origin to end and you should be able to find the leak. Try it with the pump on/off and the faucets open/closed, try hooked to city water, try with water tanks empty/full, etc etc
  4. Yesterday
  5. This is still driving me nuts. I took it to an RV repair place that I have used before but they could not even be bothered to plug in a water line. Their diagnosis was a leaking water heater. Well, I went camping this weekend and got my fingers as far under the water heater tank as is possible. No water present. Interestingly, likely due to the angle of the camp site, the water was dripping off the passenger rear corner this time. Again a steady drip about one drip every two seconds. I'm very glad that I did not give in to the temptation to order a new heater before I went! There is no sign of water inside around any of the plumbing that I can see or feel. There was a less frequent drip half way along the back bumper area but impossible to tell where it was coming from.
  6. Thank you, Fred. I’m seeing my mechanic on Wednesday.
  7. The only thing I’ve ever seen done in this regard was by a former member of this forum. His rig was not running and unable to make repairs where he broke down. He went to U-Haul and rented a moving van with a car dolly attached. Didn’t mention it was for a motorhome, just said a “full size” truck. Removed as much weight from the coach as he could into the back of the moving truck, hooked the camper to the dolly and headed home. Even this could run into thousands of dollars depending on how many miles you have to travel. It might be cheaper to do needed repairs and drive there yourself.
  8. Short back story: I’m a 70-year-old grandmother whose bucket list has long been topped by dreams of a small motor home and semi-retirement. Hey husband is long suffering... he puts up with me. I thought we were going to reap the rewards of my working and saving for this dream, but it ain’t happening. In July I bought a 1991 Toyota Horizon. I knew it was old and well used but was gullible enough to believe most of what seller told me. Now I need to haul it from Colorado to Oregon, where it will be my granny cabin when I go to visit kids and grands. If anyone has experience in that procedure, I’d appreciate advice.
  9. Thank you, Derek up North. I was thinking it was fed from the drivers side front marker light. I'll move to the rear and see if I can find the problem.
  10. I'd suggest having a multimeter for troubleshooting.
  11. The same fuse (#17) protects your tail lights. If the tail lights work but the clearance lights don't, then it's not a 'fuse' problem. Often the wiring from the driver's side tail light up to the clearance lights.
  12. Where is the fuse for the clearance lights, on my 93 Winnebago Warrior located.
  13. Good to clarify that it's the FF axle. Yes, it's called a dually here too, but some people also call what I call 'foolies' (aftermarket dual rims on a 5 lug axle that were recalled) 'dually' too. Yes, the FF axle is a Toyota part but as far as I can tell they were only ever fitted to the Hilux for the North American market. They are similar to the FF axle on the Toyota Coaster.
  14. Oh sorry I thought I had made it clear. Do they not call the twin wheel 6 lug axles duallys in the US?? It does have the floating axle twin wheel 6 lug rear end. We call it the dually here, so that is what I meant in the original post, hence why I was confused by the question. It's not a Toyota axle though is it?!?
  15. If so he needs to know the drivers side rear has left hand lug nuts. Toyota still makes the shoes for the rear too Toyota Part No.: 04495-35100 Linda S
  16. Hard to tell from this angle, but if anything, it looks like a 1986 6 hand-hole wheel FF axle.
  17. The point Linda is trying to make is has your axle been upgraded to the 6 lug full float axle? Count the number of lug nuts on the rear wheels it should be 6. If only 5 lug nuts the axle really isn’t safe to drive with.
  18. I did mention in the original post it has the dually rear end. Hence my difficulty finding out what parts I need for that, as I know its not oem hilux.
  19. I don't see anywhere how many lugs you have in the back. Did we ever establish that this motorhome got the axle upgrade? Kind of important when were talking about brakes Linda S
  20. Thank you so much for the help guys!! Seeing thr diagram of how they bolt to the back of the hub has completely cured that confusion and I reckon I should be able to find the right parts now. I was looking for slide on ones which would obviously be 5x114, so was never going to get anywhere. Yeah I have been looking for the standard pickup stuff, and have been on the hilux UK pages looking for help, but there are so few early hilux over here not many people have been much use. Now I know what I'm looking for things should get much easier. Looking for the hilux rear end won't be helpful because obviously the standard hilux didn't come with the dually rear axle so I'm still at a loss there... But hopefully if I can get new fronts and rebleed everything up then perhaps just adjusting the rear shoes might be sufficient... I'll keep you posted.
  21. Sorry but he hasn't been on the site for over a year. Linda S
  22. Here's your front pad part number, for the kit Toyota Part No.: 04465-26210 Says it was replaced by this number 04465-YZZA8 Still sold by Toyota here so your local Toyota place should be able to order it Linda S
  23. The front disks are age dependent the swap over rear is not, your front ones should be a 5 bolt hub that had different front brakes than the later 6 bolt. In the UK they had a "Stout" it was a long wheel base truck with a 1 ton diff. those will be the rear ones you are looking for.
  24. Last week
  25. Hi all, Don't come here much, but I own a 1980 Sunrader. When I bought it I had plans to rebuild it and still do. I really had some similar design less the complete refabrication of the floor and roof. My hope was to swap the truck out for some think a little bigger like the t100, but try and keep the same platform of the truck and sunrader in hopes that I could remove the sunrader and use the truck as a flatbed truck when needed. I still have plans to do this. I think the the way this build was done almost what I was looking to do. If the builder is still around the forum I just would like to know if you have pics of how you made the lifts that keep the sunrader raised. I would also like to know if your floor design mounting was any different from the original setup. Thanks in advance for your help. PS: Forgot to mention i purchased the sunrader about 5 years ago so its been sitting since then in my yard. All I do is use it as storage and pressure wash the mildew off the sides. yes the roof is sagging.
  26. Rather than hoping for parts help from Halfords, you might do better seeking out UK Hilux specialists.
  27. Yep. Looks like Toyota didn’t change that much. Also, if your vehicle is a US import it should have an emissions label under the hood. The label should say “this vehicle conforms to all emissions required for 19XX vehicles “. This is only important if there was a change between 1984 and 1985. Many times motorhome manufacturers would buy a cab and chassis from an earlier year, but not complete the actual vehicle until the following year. Use whatever year the label says when sourcing parts.
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