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  1. Today
  2. I do a LOT of buying and selling on Ebay. Know that since he listed it as "new" this guarantees it should be fully working and functional. If you get it installed and something is up with it you will be covered by Ebays buyer protection program and good for a full return.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Wow this sucker might just do the trick. It looks identical to what's currently on the truck. I really appreciate your help! And everyone else's help. I will probably buy this and give it a go!!!!
  5. Cover Photo is probably showing a Model 185. My handwriting says Model 300, which I own. I have 2 thin rear windows more, on either side.
  6. I want to thank both Linda, Derek, WME and for the links and references. I have all of the manuals for each appliance. My question pertains to the under carriage lay out and interior wiring. The under carriage in the rear end is filled with sprayed insulation. I would like to and feel I will be able to remove that insulation when I repair interior leaks .
  7. Maybe so, but I posted it so that the OP can see what he has. There are remans available on EBAY, the $$ are from 250 -500. The quality may be as varied as the prices. You need to see a photo of exactly what you are buying, that model number has at least 2 different hose/charging ports setups. The OP photos show that his has been converted to R134 with an aftermarket kit. You have to wonder if that conversion was plug n play or was done properly.
  8. Download Gimp https://www.gimp.org/ . It can resize images to what ever size you need. The system is set to 800x800 pixels max or less.
  9. Thank for the diagram. The triangle and the bar tell the story the point is the direction the current flows the bar is the current block so this is how two batteries can be joined without discharging one another and both be charged at the same time. There is a great deal of perceived mystery inside of that little box but once you see how it actually works it really is a simple device it's just two high current diodes nothing more because diodes are less than 100% efficient there is loss to heating that's why it has cooling fins.
  10. I saw that one too, not sure I'd want to trust it!
  11. Thanks for all that great info, BR. It is much appreciated. I couldn't wait and I went ahead and just used wood and glue and fiberglass on my ceiling. It seems very solid now and has managed to keep a pretty good curve. Once I get building the inside I will prop up the roof with the help of a post on each side about half way down that will live as part of the shelves or cabinets. Mine is a 1986 21' RD that had been damaged by a large tree branch. Before this, it had been neglected and suffered quite a bit of water damage. Although, it is always uplifting - if that's the right word - to see others have dealt with far worse and managed to come out the other end. I drove it from central California where we bought it, up here to Canada. Runs ok but goes through a bit of oil and probably needs a clutch. But I have to deal with the home side first before digging into any mechanical issues. All the cabinets and appliances and the dinette were pretty far gone and had to go. The floor was nasty deep into the rear corner. I fixed it and hoisted that side up an inch or two underneath. Could not afford to do a full steel wing job, but this works. And now I'm finished with the floor. Cleaned it all up. Shored up the weak spots. And put down a solid 3/4" top screwed and glued and fiberglassed to the shell in some spots. Those aluminium side pieces you made are an interesting addition. I may look into that as I move forward. I have fiberglassed in all the voids and have started filling a few holes on the roof. Both vents are in rough shape and have to be replaced. All the windows have to come off and be cleaned up and put back in. Then I guess I will have to get at those dreaded curved front windows. Otherwise, all good and moving steadily forward. Rick
  12. Last week
  13. Well its not a Sanden. but here is the exact one...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Kiki-Zexel-Seltec-DKS15BH-Compressor/174070583886?hash=item28876a524e:g:pSIAAOSwk-Bdq4Jl
  14. Not able to upload pdf booklet file. I did post pdf in Forum. Search "1979 Dolphin Owner's Manual" to find. 1979 Dolphin Owners Manual.pdf
  15. Print out and staple together. Otherwise, you can look at each half page using number at bottom.
  16. Print out and staple together. Otherwise, you can look at each half page using number at bottom.
  17. Print out and staple together. Otherwise, you can look at each half page using number at bottom.
  18. Print out and staple together. Otherwise, you can look at each half page using number at bottom.
  19. Print out and staple together. Otherwise, you can look at each half page using number at bottom.
  20. Print out and staple together. Otherwise, you can look at each half page using number at bottom.
  21. Hi JaySam, My roof, like many, had been the victim of an unsupported A/C unit and as a result, had sagged probably about 2" +/- allowing the back to collect water and leak at the vent port causing all matter of rot in the interior paneling and mounting cleats. I had the same concerns you do about restoring the original arching too quickly, but I did it in the heat of summer here in Kali and went a bit at a time over a couple of days. Also, though I recalled a 3/8" piece of plywood against the interior roof, in my prior entry above, it may have been 1/2' or 5/8". It seems to me I experimented with different scraps I had laying around until I got what "looked right" to spread the load under the roof and got it sort of matching the forward contour over the bathroom, where it's more supported by the shower stall under it as original. (mine is the rear-dinette model). One inch may do you, it all depends on how "pushed-down" your back roof is... A big help is if you can look at another SunRader, if there's one close by. I had no such luck, so I tried 3 jacks under the plywood, then 2 jacks and ended up using 1 as shown. After some time, it just looked like a sort of graceful curve, correct and not stressed in the middle. BTW, if you are into a complete interior re-fab, I HIGHLY recommend using something like the construction jacks pictured above,.Something very closely like them can be bought at Harbor Freight, or if you have a friend who does drywall work, he may be able to lend you something. After all, you will need something to hold up the finished braces to bond them to the ceiling (with 2 free hands) anyway. They were exremely useful when re-doing panelling and cabinets as well. Once I got the arc right, I made a cardboard template for each of the two brace locations, and folded them in the middle, overlapping one half over the other, then trimming both sides a bit to average them and get the (unfolded) arch even side-to-side on both. I didn't form and bend the tubing myself, since I can't weld aluminum anyway, and I had no stock, so I had it done. I likely paid too much, about $200 for material, and labor on 4 braces (I DID say $ Kali $, after all), but I also got this extremely good welder to strengthen the wanna-be welds on the roof- ladder without blowing-through the thin ladder tubing and that was definately worth doing. The only thing I would do different, if I were to do it again, is make and install 2 more braces for the front roof, that's all. Just take your time and do lots of test-fits, stop, have a cup of joe and sit and look at it. If it doesn't look quite right, either come back to it tomorrow with a new head of steam or fix it. Remember, if you compromise, every time you walk under it, you're going to wish you hadn't. I got stuff wrong and went back to fix it. It's how we get to be better fabricators. Don't forget to leave a bit of space at the corners/ends of the uprights to pass wiring through, at the top of the sides, if you're going to re-wire the coach. I suggest an opening at least the size of a nickle, more, if possible, as you may want to take the opportuniy to upgrade to larger gauge wire. See strips in above pix. PS Consider backing fridge vent panel and water heater door port screw-holes, as well as any other exterior screws prone to stripping, with 1/8" aluminum sheet to give exterior screws a lasting bite. Most of my exterior coach screws were either stripped, or ready to go. If you're loaded with jing, go with stainless screws. I'm gonna stop here...... May the Hardware Gods be with you, BR, ToyoGuy
  22. Well if you put that in your Toyota motorhome you'll never need it because you will have to leave your clothes at home. Linda S
  23. This might be what you need, but wait for a Sunrader expert to confirm that it's the correct width. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25173-Vinyl-Insert-Black/dp/B01B3TNO04
  24. There has to be some type of compatible compressor, maybe pull that compressor off and stop by an Auto AC shop and get their opinion?
  25. Maybe this one?? https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Sanden-508-V-Belt-A-C-Compressor-Plain,8581.html?sku=42813459&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvNf-pI6Q5wIVhcJkCh0i9AdpEAQYAyABEgIcn_D_BwE
  26. Could you please provide a link or part number? That looks excellent!! Way better then rusty screws!
  27. Jolly does a review for a small washing machine that fits in any size RV. Light weight & compact.
  28. Hey Rick, Any updates on the project? How did the roof turn out now that it's been a little bit, are you happy with your solution? Jay
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