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  1. Today
  2. It sounds like you just want the cabin lights to run on solar? 200 watts is more then enough for that. Cabin lights should also work when on shore power. You may have a 12v wire issue.
  3. Thanks Linda. Once I clicked on the part number in Derek's link it showed the production dates. Definitely the single row. Will be getting the tensioner checked. I'm at 80,000 miles.
  4. Front wheel (Close up) and back wheel (can see more of the camper). Can you verify for me? Not sure what makes it a fool or if it’s not the lugs.
  5. 86Dolphino, do you still have manuals to share? I just got an '86 and it's kinda in pieces. I'm determined to put it back together and am looking for any reference materials I can get. Thanx Steve Eugene, OR
  6. This is the only timing chain I find for your vehicle. Was used until 7/83 Toyota Part No.: 13506-35010 Linda S
  7. WME, Looks like you may have found what I need. The filler neck and cap seem to utilize more of a vented radiator style cap. I bought one of the Stant/Gates gas caps at my local auto store but they don't stay on. I am going to check out the Motorad cap as it looks similar to what was previously on there. Thanks for the help, ill report back.
  8. Thanks Derek. I will double check again in the morning on the axle code. The link to the engine specs is great. Of course it shows two possible timing chains. Will keep reading to see if it's possible to know from the ID numbers. I have the number from the block but I'm not sure if that will help. As near as I can tell it's J760918. I will have another look at that tomorrow as well. OK. Read the fine print. It the single row. Thanks again for link.
  9. Yesterday
  10. It does have a check valve so you will lose little (it says here in the fine print) I don't think it will cause short cycling because of its location but it's worth a try they are fairly cheap.
  11. Hey man, The horn is located behind the driver’s side headlights. It’s a bit of a mission to get to from the top, but if you look up underneath you’ll see it. Should be blue wires and a little plug into a silver saucer. You’ll be able to get to it without removing much.
  12. Hey Sunny Where the heck is the horn on your truck? Mine is in-op and I can find where it is or if it even has one.
  13. Diagnosed a faulty a/c pressure switch which was erratically short cycling the compressor.. question is: Does this things let out Freon when it’s removed or is there a valve built in that cuts keeps the system sealed when I remove it? I just had the system tested and filled up (to discover the switch needs replaced.) thanks edit: cab a/c
  14. 038 / LT42 / G92 / W42 Color / Trim / Axle / Transmission Are you sure your plate isn't marked 'G292'?
  15. I was unable to download my vehicle specs using the VIN alone. I will keep trying. In the meantime, could anyone spare some time and knowledge about the following, taken from the plate on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Model # RN44L-KDA 038LT42G92W42 22R 2366cc OK, the last line I get. (Interestingly, I have seen various numbers for the cc's.) It is the meaning of the first and second line that I would like to know more about. Particularly engine, axle and chassis specs if these numbers specify. Also, 1 or 2 row timing chain? Date of Man. - May '83. Right in the grey zone the 22R. Yes. I have the original 5 lug. The GVWR is 4650 - 2905 rear and 1850 front. Rig is as originally built (no AC anywhere, no gennie, etc) so I assume I am at or slightly under the limit. Will weigh it once I'm out of quarantine. Enough said. Any info you care to share. Just getting to know my rig. It's a 18ft Sunrader. And yes, I am looking at axle solutions and have read the wise advice about options posted here. Thanks in advance.
  16. You have money in you pocket? I thought you owned a Toyota motorhome?
  17. I'm currently using this Sashco product (recommended by Linda, thank you very much) and have been impressed. Very easy to lay a nice bead and tool it, and clean-up is a breeze. The "almond" looks great against the original beige sidewalls of my Warrior. Wish I had some before-and-after photos of the results thus far. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Big-Stretch-10-5-fl-oz-White-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/4411173 Available at many places, local and online, and comes in a few different colors. Another popular choice would be Dicor's non-sagging lap sealant. I've also used OSI Quad sealant with pretty good results. Both of these products are good quality and long-lasting—somewhat difficult to work with, however, and clean-up involves solvents.
  18. That's my opinion ONLY, of course! Others love shiny SS. I prefer money in my pocket.
  19. Your tires (Primewell PS580) and size (P195/75R14) are not normally recommended for motorhome service, though for the (assumed) light weight of your MH will be OK as long as the inner sidewalls aren't too close to allow rubbing or cause tire overheating.
  20. Looks aren't everything. There were several versions of 'foolies'. Without removing the wheel you've posted to confirm, I strongly suspect this is what you'll find hiding behind the outer wheel. Unfortunately, they're still foolies, loading the axle in ways not designed for.
  21. The 'Best' choice is to remove them and bed them in fresh butyl tape.
  22. From the pictures it looks to be some kind of adapter that is bolted to the inside wheel the tube is hollow so that is not the axle regardless that mess has got to go. Other than losing the wheel when the axle breaks the entire mess is still bolted together including the rear brake drum so you also lose the rear brakes just to make things even more exciting.
  23. What is a good choice of caulking around windows and tail lights etc?
  24. Yours looks like your front tire. We need to see the back. Either that or there's a thick adapter between the inside and the outside tire to allow the addition of the second tire. Those cause the same offset that damages the wheel bearing and causes axle failure. Linda S
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